Bordeaux 2012 at Four Years: Margaux
Occasionally, once in a while, the Margaux appellation sits apart, in isolation, setting out an array of wines which beat everything else on the left bank hands down. It isn’t the norm though, and it certainly isn’t the case in 2012. Nevertheless it would not be totally fair to say this appellation falls directly into line behind its peers just to the north, St Julien and Pauillac. Despite this being an appellation rich in gravel and Cabernet Sauvignon, not a beneficial combination in this vintage, the wines here are ever-so-slightly more interesting than those from the appellations which lie just to the north.
It is not a huge difference though, and perhaps it is slightly academic; there are some fairly good results in the vintage in this appellation, the identity of one or two perhaps surprising, but these wines do not come close to what St Estèphe can offer in 2012. And at the lower end of the quality spectrum within this appellation, these wines still show the typical 2012 left-bank character, with lighter textures, a red-fruit profile, and leaner midpalate substance.
Tasting the Wines
While not the most striking wine on the left bank, Château Margaux has a very elegant and poised promise, with lovely gravel and floral perfume that to me feels very typical of the appellation. Sadly Château Palmer wasn’t available for a side-by-side tasting, so I can’t comment on how the two wines compare. I spoke to Thomas Duroux about the absence of his wine a week or two after the tasting, and it was down to a seemingly irreconcilable difference regarding the structure of the tasting at the way the Institute communicates its results. Sadly, I suspect we have seen the last of Château Palmer at this annual event, and this is a great shame particularly in 2012, as the wine was hugely convincing at the primeurs, and I haven’t had an opportunity to taste it again since. This leaves Château Rauzan-Ségla and Château d’Issan (pictured below) in supporting roles for the appellation’s first growth. Both are attractive wines, the former bright, gravelly and perfumed, the latter showing some surprisingly dark and convincing fruit.
