Domaine aux Moines, 2017 Update
More adventures in Savennières now, with a look at the latest and forthcoming releases from Tessa Laroche (pictured) at Domaine aux Moines. It seems appropriate, having kicked off this year’s Savennières reports with the wines of Nicolas Joly, followed by the wines of Eric Morgat, to continue with Tessa. Because there is a theme here (and I don’t just mean they are all in the same appellation).
This theme is one of change. As I already mentioned in my Nicolas Joly update, a few years ago the news that Virginie Joly had also taken up the secateurs was warmly received by many who though that her presence on the domaine would have a positive, uplifting effect on the standard of winemaking here. There was a glimmer of hope, as a couple of vintages looked a touch fresher, a touch lighter in terms of alcohol, but with time (and a couple more vintages) it became clear that this apparent change simply wasn’t real. The style was the same as ever, warm, alcoholic, laden with botrytis and in some vintages, or at least some bottles, oxidation.
In the case of Eric Morgat, however, the change has been very real. His wines were already good, although very much in the modern, oak-infused style. But with a shift towards earlier picking, looking for freshness and acidity rather than weight, and dialling back on the new oak, the style has shifted towards a more mineral-bright style. They are wines to savour and delight in.
The wines of Domaine aux Moines are much closer to those of Eric Morgat in style, than to those of Nicolas Joly. Under the direction of Tessa’s mother the wines were always very staid, austere, with a rather stolid poise. If you waited a decade or more they offered some rather old-school pleasure, and indeed it was not hard to find vintages aged ten to fifteen years on the market, often sold for a song, a reflection of the quality. I know, because I bought them, drank them, and made these judgements. But now that Tessa has taken over the style has changed convincingly. Gone are the maiden aunts of old, the new wines made here are cool young hipsters, loaded with minerally freshness, energy, acidity and excitement. Tessa has catapulted the domaine from one I could safely ignore to one where I want to buy and drink the wines for pleasure, not simply as ‘research’ for Winedoctor.
