Domaine aux Moines, 2017 Update
More adventures in Savennières now, with a look at the latest and forthcoming releases from Tessa Laroche (pictured below) at Domaine aux Moines. It seems appropriate, having kicked off this year’s Savennières reports with the wines of Nicolas Joly, followed by the wines of Eric Morgat, to continue with Tessa. Because there is a theme here (and I don’t just mean they are all in the same appellation).
This theme is one of change. As I already mentioned in my Nicolas Joly update, a few years ago the news that Virginie Joly had also taken up the secateurs was warmly received by many who though that her presence on the domaine would have a positive, uplifting effect on the standard of winemaking here. There was a glimmer of hope, as a couple of vintages looked a touch fresher, a touch lighter in terms of alcohol, but with time (and a couple more vintages) it became clear that this apparent change simply wasn’t real. The style was the same as ever, warm, alcoholic, laden with botrytis and in some vintages, or at least some bottles, oxidation.
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