Alain Cailbourdin, 2016 Update
Even though the appellation of Pouilly-Fumé was home to the Loire Valley’s most renowned vigneron, the late Didier Dagueneau, many other interesting domaines in this particular corner of the Central Vineyards seem, by comparison, to fly under the radar. This is despite turning out disarming wines of great typicity and verve. One domaine that might be said to fit this bill is Alain Cailbourdin. Having set out in 1980 to build his domaine from scratch he is now a well-established and respected vigneron in the region working several interesting terroirs. The wines he makes are of very good quality, in particular the Triptyque. The 2012 featured in the Oaked Sauvignon Blanc tasting for the UK wine trade I hosted alongside Richard Bampfield MW last year, and it all but stole the show.
This more recent tasting took in just six of Alain’s wines, and of these two I have already included in my Central Vineyards 2015 report. That leaves three from 2014 and a lone representative from 2012, happily also both excellent vintages. From 2014 the Boisfleury (previously known as Cuvée de Boisfleury) showed a classic style, while Les Cris, the most significant cuvée in terms of volume of production, was a significant step up. Looking for the minerally character that typifies the Pouilly-Fumé appellation, for my palate what Les Cris offers is also present in Les Cornets, albeit in a much greater magnitude, and so this latter cuvée was certainly my favourite of this first trio. Each wine certainly has something to say though.
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