Domaine de la Taille aux Loups: Vineyards
The vineyards – whether in Montlouis-sur-Loire or Vouvray – are given over almost in their entirety to Chenin Blanc and presumably, given the fact there is a sparkling rosé produced, a little Gamay too. The vines are cared for along organic lines; there is limited use of organic manure, and spraying is kept to the bare minimum necessary. Nevertheless for many years Jacky did not seek organic certification, a decision which left him exposed to questions and criticism from various quarters, both within and outside the appellation. These days, however, the domaine is indeed certified organic, by ECOCERT, which will presumably silence any mutterings about his commitment.
Surface weeds are kept down with ploughing, which also forces the vines to root more deeply. The leaf canopy is closely controlled during spring and summer, and towards the end of the latter the vineyard it was often stripped entirely of leaves, leaving just the bunches of fruit, improving exposure to the sun and also dramatically increasing ventilation, thereby greatly reducing the risk of rot. In more recent vintages, however, I doubt this is so necessary; as the climate warms, the region is experiencing drier and warmer seasons, and maintaining leaf cover can be useful in protecting the ripening fruit.
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