Michel Redde: Tasting & Drinking
Pouilly-Fumé can be a difficult appellation to get to grips with; although it is no less famous than Sancerre (well, not much, anyway), there does not seem to be the broad base of quality-focused growers regularly turning out reliable wines here as there are on the other bank of the Loire. Nevertheless, in the wines of Michel Redde, run in recent years by Thierry Redde, and today by his sons Sébastien and Romain, we have a source of good quality Pouilly-Fumé that should satisfy the most ardent Loire-Sauvignon addict.
Of particular note, in my opinion, are the single-vineyard wines of Les Cornets, Les Champs des Billons, Les Toupées and Les Bois de Saint-Andélain. There is huge potential for exploring and defining the varied terroirs of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, and it is pleasing to see the Redde family doing their bit. It seems to me that greater focus on single vineyards, rather than blending across many sites, will only lead to higher levels of quality; the wines tend to show more precision, minerality and definition as a result. This is certainly true of the very convincing single-vineyard wines of Michel Redde, and this only reinforces my pre-existing single-vineyard prejudice.
The Barre à Mine cuvée is an excellent addition to the portfolio. A profoundly mineral wine, it is stacked with so much flinty, gunpowdery substance drinkers should probably apply for a firearms licence before pulling the cork. It is a remarkable example of Pouilly-Fumé, one which lingers with a minerally energy for minutes after the wine has gone from the mouth. It is a top effort, confirming this domaine’s highly-ranked position within the appellation. One should not ignore the remainder of the Michel Redde range though; Majorum has plenty to offer, and is reliable, being produced only in the best vintages. But the less-widely appreciated wines of Pouilly-sur-Loire are also a success here, and they too should not be overlooked. Whichever way you look at it, this is certainly one of the leading domaines of the appellation. (29/4/14, updated 27/8/17, 14/7/24)
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