Clos Rougeard: The Domaine Today
After Charly and Nady took over the domaine very little changed; that is, after all, part of the appeal of Clos Rougeard. The vineyards within the Saumur-Champigny appellation are as they were at least two generations ago (only the addition of the parcel of Chenin Blanc in Brézé changes the profile of the domaine), and the methods remained the same in vineyard and cellar. All around them, however, fashion has come around to mirror what they do; all over Saumur-Champigny the more motivated vignerons are taking vines back from the local co-operatives, switching to working the soils rather than relying on chemicals and moving to use more wood in the cellar, all practices commonplace at Clos Rougeard for centuries. Having once been the subject of ridicule, Charly and Nady now began to enjoy considerable success and what could only be described as cult status. This, I feel, served only to bemuse Charly and Nady, who continued to make wine for drinking, just as they had done during the preceding four or five decades. The prices of Clos Rougeard today, unfortunately for old friends of the domaine, reflect this new adoration.
Charly and Nady both developed a reputation for being reclusive, well-earned in my experience, but like many such vignerons – Philippe Foreau being another good example – once you make their acquaintance they are charming and outgoing. Give him time and Nady (pictured) displays a fine, almost slapstick sense of humour. He is very particular about some things (no doubt a bonus when it comes to working in the vineyard) but clearly likes to crack a joke at other times. He is also, despite his professing a lack of intellectual capability, able to speak with some authority not just on the wines of Saumur, but also of Chavignol in Sancerre. This is because, as noted in my introduction, he is married to Anne Vatan of Clos la Néore, and I sense his guidance and presence here is very useful for Anne.
