Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Brut Champagne 1982: A well coloured wine, with a golden hue, although as would be expected there is little sparkle in the wine. An obvious edge of madeirisation on the nose, with nutty aromas. Good texture on the palate, which is nutty and flavoursome. It still has fresh acidity and has a youthful integration of components, despite evidence of oxidation present on the palate as well as the nose. Sour apples on the finish, but it remains very drinkable. 17/20

Chateau Haut-Batailley (Pauillac) 1982: One of the more youthful looking wines in this flight, perhaps somewhat surprisingly in view of the identities of the subsequent wines. Smoky blackcurrant fruit on the nose, with a stony edge and some burnt toffee character coming out with aeration. Still quite tannic on the palate, making the wine a touch austere. There's plenty of texture and body, and good acidity. The wine even seems a little backward, although with time it opens out to reveal some smoky elegance. Very drinkable. 17+/20

Chateau Branaire-Ducru (St Julien) 1982: There is more age apparent here, this wine bearing a tawny rim. Still plenty of life in it yet, though. A floral, elegant nose, with a hint of toffee. Delightful texture on the palate, which is packed with fruit and has a nicely integrated tannic structure. Wonderfully balanced acidity. This is a superb wine, although the components need more time to come together in a more harmonious fashion. It is a wine still on the way up. 18/20

Chateau Palmer (Margaux) 1982: There is just a moderate tawny tinge to this wine. The nose shouts class, with a combination of floral elegance and power, together with lots of blackcurrant fruit with a gravel, mineral and cordite edge. Gorgeous texture on the palate, amazing structure, and beautifully balanced. Lots of tarry yet fine fruit. A harmonious wine, which undoubtedly has years ahead of it. I felt the combination of elegance with power should have made this wine easy to identify blind. 18.5/20

Jasmin Côte-Rôtie 1982: A lovely, rich colour here. A cornucopia of aromas on the nose, initially very green and weedy, but these characteristics soon dissipate and the wine develops scorched fruit and tobacco qualities. There are similar characteristics on the palate, together with some sweet, leathery, slightly cooked fruit. It develops a lovely weight through the midpalate, and a hot, alcoholic character also becomes very apparent. Firm tannins run through the wine. 17.5/20

Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1982: This wine has a wonderful deep red colour, with little sign of age. On the night it was served blind with the three clarets, and stood out for it's youthful appearance. There is an amazing depth of cassis fruit on the nose, and this is reflected on the palate, which is big, structured and almost seamless. Lovely mineral edge to the fruit, which takes on a powerful, prune-like character. Finishes well and has a warming length. Aimé Guibert says this vintage needs decades more of bottle age, and on the basis of this tasting I'm not one to disagree. 18/20

La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 1982: This wine has a mahogany-tawny tinge, although it has a deep colour. What a nose! Loaded with luxurious coconut - belying prolonged ageing in American oak - as well as smoke, burning oil and just masses of sweet fruit. A big, soft and rounded texture on the palate, like the nose it is loaded with fruit. A beautiful structure comes from elegant tannins and balanced acidity. Strawberry and cherry fruit, coming through strongly on the finish. 19+/20

Marques de Arienzo Rioja Gran Reserva 1982: Some coconut and sweet fruit on the nose here, with the same implications as for the last wine. This develops into an unusual but intriguing choco-mocca aroma after some time in the glass. An elegant texture is immediately apparent on the palate, with good, firm tannins. Really fattens up through the midpalate, developing damson and blackcurrant favours. It has a peppery edge, and is carried by good acidity. 17/20

Muga Rioja Gran Reserva 1982: This is a paler colour than other wines served here, although the tawny red hue, which fades to a pink rim at the edge, has a vibrant core. An unusual nose though, full of dung and sweat, and short on fruit. Big and tannic on the palate, with sharp acidity and, frankly, no charm. There is a sweet Demerara sugar note on the finish. This big wine is not faulty, just very much closed down, and needs years more in bottle yet. 16+?/20

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 1982: This has a rich, red, youthful colour, fading just a little at the rim. Classic bitter cherries on the nose, with some notes of smoke and sweat. It has a beautiful texture, great structure and wonderful balance. The acidity does overshadow the fruit a little towards the endpalate, but this doesn't distract from the overall impression. Classic and stylish. 18/20

Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 1982: This has a lovely deep red colour, and it is just a touch cloudy - nothing a second decant wouldn't have sorted out. The nose has lovely floral perfume, together with somewhat raisined fruit. Pleasing weight on the palate, which has integrated alcohol and good balance. Good peppery fruit. Fabulous length. 17/20