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Bordeaux 2008: The Right Bank, Part 2
Bordeaux 2008
En primeur
Pomerol
As I have already expounded in my introduction to the wines of St Emilion in this vintage, my tastings of the two principal right bank appellations were jumbled up throughout what turned out to be a very long and busy day. Nevertheless, the Pomerol estates had no difficulty in making their mark on my palate, such was the quality. Fans of the estate will not be surprised that my visit to Le Pin yielded probably the most desirable and seductive wine of the appellation under the spotlight here, although as I have already mentioned elsewhere, and reiterated in my note below, the wine tasted was merely a representation of 2008 Le Pin, Jacques Thienpont drawing a sample from just two barrels with a little press wine added in. The quality in what I tasted, though, was exceptional, but this is a good reminder of the tenuous link between some barrel samples and the finished wine.
The Pomerol story in this vintage is pretty like any other Bordeaux
appellation this year, namely a damp summer saved by a warm September and
October, with low yields for all the same reasons that reduced the harvest
elsewhere, as I have explained in my introduction. Christian Moueix informed me
that for Pomerol the average yield, across the whole appellation, was just 32
hl/ha, although naturally the final figure for the Moueix properties was a few
hectolitres per hectare lower than this. There was an additional scare in this
appellation, however, when a light film of botrytis appeared on the grapes in
early October. A difficult year
looked to be heading for ultimate disaster but an autumn frost seemed to kill
the mould almost overnight, the fruit remained healthy, and the vintage continued.
Looking beyond Le Pin, Petrus and Vieux Chateau Certan have both put in excellent efforts, and at the UGC tasting which was held at La Conseillante there were more good wines, most notably that produced by the château hosting the event. Petrus impressed with fabulously elegant tannins, whereas Vieux Chateau Certan (where we were welcomed by Jacques Thienpont's brother Alexandre, pictured left) was multilayered and textured, reminding me why this is one of my favourite wines in all Bordeaux. La Conseillante, meanwhile, has also impressed in numerous other vintages, and the 2008 is no exception to this rule it seems. Being fair, however, there were many other estates that have turned in sterling performances in this appellation, such as Lafleur-Pétrus and numerous others from the Moueix tasting.
I have included not only notes for wines tasted in Bordeaux in April, but also wines from the Cercle Rive Droite tasting held in London shortly beforehand. (16/4/09)
Pomerol 2008: Tasting Notes
Tasted in London and Bordeaux in March & April 2009. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Beauregard 2008:
Some cream evident here on the nose, swirled with blackberries. Attractive and
rich fruit on the palate, with some nice and firm tannins, this is nicely
structured, balanced, and harmonious. Fresh, with elegant acidity. A lovely
effort. 17-18+/20
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Chateau Bonalgue 2008: Vanilla and blackberry here on the nose. The palate
has a gentle start, but is finely poised, with good acidity. Attractive in the
middle, fleshy, slightly grippy, well rounded but with fairly firm tannins,
especially at the finish. A touch hot here also. 15.5-16.5/20
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Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 2008: Perfumed, chalky red fruits on the nose.
Really attractive palate, opening into a creamy texture, with a ripe and supple
tannic backbone. Fresh acids provide a lot of welcome counterbalance, and there
is a nice substance to the finish. This has an appealing style. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Bourgneuf-Vayron 2008: This has an attractive nose, rather
toasty, but with nicely appealing dark fruits. Fresh on the palate, quite well
balanced, with a fresh and gentle substance over a ripe tannic backbone and
appropriate extract. A good style which has an awful lot of appeal to my palate. 17.5-18.5+/20
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Chateau La Cabanne 2008: Last year I failed to even generate a score
on the 2007. This vintage the wine seems withdrawn on the nose. The palate is
structured, with a rather juicy texture, and firm tannins underneath. It isn't
very expressive and the structure seems hard, perhaps rather austere. It has a
rather meaty finish and some length. Certainly a better effort though. 15-16+?/20
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Chateau Certan de May 2008: Plump berry fruit on the nose, dark and
smoky in character, perhaps oak-derived? Nice flesh on entry, with gentle and
polished fruit texture. Good, ripe but substantial tannins, with nice
aromatics. This has a softer style than some, but there is elegance here, and
muted acidity. It is less vivacious than some wines in the Moueix line-up, but
nevertheless it has fine potential for development. 17-18+/20
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Chateau Certan Marzelle 2008: Smoky, charcoal-tinged fruit, an oak
effect I would think. Sweet, very fleshy, well-textured win on the palate, witha
lovely creamy substance. Very tangible extract, but appropriate, with a firm
backbone of tannin well covered by the substance of the wine. Firm acidity too.
This is very good indeed. 17-18+/20
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Chateau
Clinet 2008: Dense, creamy, dark fruit, but also fresh and perfumed. A
firm palate, moderately fleshy but quite linear, defined and structured. There
is a very good substance to it, a little meatiness, and ripe tannins. A dense
vin de garde meant for the cellar. 17.5-18.5+?/20
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Clos du Clocher 2008: Nice and birght aromatics on the nose here, with
vanilla, black pepper and cream. The palate is very gentle, although more
structured through the midpalate, with some overt tannins here. Restrained
fruit, gently chewy, certainly attractive. A grippy finish. A touch austere and
in need of the cellar for sure. 16-17+/20
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Chateau La Commanderie de Mazeyres 2008: Tasted twice. A somewhat paler wine than
many of its peers, with a cooked fruit nose. The palate is soft, oily, rounded,
with a touch of burnt fat flavour. There is some grip behind it thankfully, but
overall this seems detached and very strange. So much so I retasted later with
the same impression. 12.5-13.5+/20
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Chateau
La Conseillante 2008: Hugely aromatic sweet fruit on the nose here,
sweet and elegant, with evident purity and enticing red fruit character.
The palate is lovely, creamy but with style and finesse. A fine density, ripe
and silky tannins, but that purity is maintained. Great potential here, one of
the best wines of the commune for sure. 18-19+/20
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Chateau La Croix de Gay 2008: Smoke, bacon fat, chalk and red fruits
on the nose, before a palate of lightly fleshy texture, bright and defined, with
a perfumed, chalky-violet style. Some grip, and good acidity, and a polished
texture. Good wine, good potential. 16-17+/20
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Chateau La Croix Taillefer 2008: An intense nose, with perfumed and confected
fruit, a little bright. The palate is big and creamy, although it immediately
seems to flatten out to a crisper style, with lots of crunchy blackberry and
cranberry fruit. Lightly textured in truth, stylish but with a firm grip
beneath, this has good potential. 16-17+/20
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Clos l'Église 2008: Nice, fairly perfumed fruit on the nose, intense and
plummy, with a violet edge. The palate starts attractively, creamy and rounded,
rather svelte in texture, with raspberry and cream character. Very flattering,
with nice midpalate acidity. Later on it shows a more brawny, cakey character to
the fruit. A good grip at the finish, and some length too. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Domaine de l'Église 2008: A vibrant nose, with blackberry cream, lavender and
violets, with a little hint of cola the only detractor. The palate is fresh,
sweet, textured and rather flashy. A supple structure lies beneath, elegant
although very primary. Nicely composed, with well coated tannins and a good ripe
grip at the edge. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau La Fleur de Gay 2008: Rather subdued on the nose, with ripe fruits.
The palate seems rather withdrawn, showing little fruit today, but with burnt
toast character and fairly moderate acidity. It has a little tannic grip and
even seems a little austere. I think there could be very good potential here.
15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau La Fleur-Pétrus 2008: Bright and crystalline fruit on the nose
here, although with a good plummy style. Dense, creamy, textured, sweet fruit
coating the tannins which are firm, fairly well polished, with good fruit. A
well-judged wine indeed, full of potential. I like this very much. 17.5-18.5+/20
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Chateau Gazin
2008: Dense and creamy fruit here, pure but rich, and perhaps just a little
meaty. A lighter style as it starts out on the palate, fresh, broad and open.
Less sweet texture, firm, rather hard structure compared to some of its peers.
Extracted and indeed a little tinny, with lots of acid. This will need to fatten
out to really satisfy, which it may do. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau La Grave à Pomerol 2008: This is the property once named
La Grave Trignant de Boisset after a previous owner,
which I have tasted in older vintages. In this vintage it has less expressive
character, with some red and leafy fruit. The palate is well polished, stony,
with a fresh, lightly perfumed middle. Gentle, reserved, balanced, but with
slightly hard tannins which give a firm grip beneath and through to the finish.
Very good potential though. 17-18+/20
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Chateau Hosanna 2008: Fine fruit on the nose here, crystalline, gently
sweet, with a lovely sweet and broad texture to the fruit on the palate. Good,
nicely polished tannins, very firm acids, An aromatic finish, quite seamlessly
textured, with very good potential. Really attractive and full of promise. 17-18+/20
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Chateau Lafleur-Gazin 2008: From the vineyard sitting between Lafleur and Gazin, in
this vintage this is less open on the nose, firm and dark, preceding a reserved
and elegantly composed palate at the beginning. This certainly has some middle,
underpinned by a firm but ripe structure, and nicely fresh acidity. A little
touch of polished fruit complexity to it too; very good potential here. 17-18+/20
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Chateau Latour à Pomerol 2008: Good dark plummy fruit, lovely and
fresh, with a red fruit character. The texture is silky, stylish, and centres
around a cool core of tannins. Well polished, with fresh acidity, and a good
balance. With a little more weight I am sure this would be an excellent wine. 17.5-18.5+/20
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Chateau Le Moulin 2008: A bright and fresh nose here, with red fruits,
chalk and violets. Easygoing on the palate, ripe and supple, with rather low
acidity. It has soft and sandy fruit, rather a soft focus, and lacks a little
vigour. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau Nenin 2008: This wine,
81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, has a more exotic aroma profile then Fugue,
with notes suggestive of scented plums rubbed on stones. The palate is at first
weighty and dense, but then much more restrained and better judged through the
middle. Still quite firm though, and a charcoaly edge here too, a touch chewy
and hard on the finish. But it has good acids. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Fugue de Nenin 2008: The second wine of
Nenin, 84% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc. Perfumed raspberry and
chalk here, with a nice creamy start. Quite firm, slightly austere through the
middle, although there is a lot of substance to it. Underneath there are
charcoaly-sooty tannins, and this character persists onto the finish. A very
firm, extracted style, but a decent second wine I suppose. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau
Petit Village 2008: Dense, cola-tinged fruit on the nose here. The
palate has dense, stony, cranberry fruit, with lots of tannin and
structure underneath. Ripe, but a bit chewy, with less fruit than I would have
expected from the tannins and extract. This is a leaner, more stony style. 15-16+/20
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Petrus 2008: Really very impressive style on the nose here,
with rich, ripe, plump but stylishly fresh fruits dominating. The palate has a
silky start to it, and the quality of the tannins clearly sets this wine apart
from the rest of the Moueix portfolio in this vintage. They have a very ripe and
polished character, providing elegance but also substance. The palate builds in
terms of impact, with a firm and fresh acidity throughout. A very admirable wine
with fine potential. 18-19+/20
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Le Pin
2008: This was a blend created before my eyes by Jacques
Thienpont from three barrels, the first two being Le Pin proper, the third
giving just a small addition of press wine. So it is merely a representation of
2008 Le Pin rather than the finished wine. The aromatics are fine, perfumed
damsons, with a crystalline character like many other wines of this vintage.
Ripe and concentrated on the palate, beautifully precise concentration, elegant
and well delineated, with pure, floral, damson fruit. Fine and yet velvety
tannins, this has a fine and very long style. Greatness is assured. 18.5-19.5+/20
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Chateau Plince 2008:
Toasty oak on the nose here, alongside smoky fruit, overall very nice aromatics.
A nice creamy start, firmer midpalate, slightly sooty extracted tannins giving a
hard structure. A middleweight with a firm, tannic structure. Nice potential
though. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau La Pointe 2008: The aromas suggest dark fruits, and sweeter
nuances than some, and yet it has a fairly crisp style on the palate. Cranberry
fruit sits over a layer of ripe tannin, good extract and decent acidity. There
is a somewhat rustic edge to the composition but nevertheless a better and more
approachable effort in this vintage. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Providence 2008: The nose here has some muted fruit and a
brighter, crystalline style. It is quite fleshy at the start, and shows ripe and
extracted tannins, with really quite heavy structure. There is a lot of punch
and substance here, but it is quite heavily worked. Nevertheless a nice wine. 16-17+/20
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Romulus 2008: Dark and smoky fruit, sweet too. Very elegant but
creamy opening on the palate, although rather a dry tannic backbone through the
middle. There is a fairly good layer of sweet fruit though, and a fleshy,
grippy, rich and fairly extracted substance. A big and bold style. Could be very
good. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Trotanoy 2008: Rather serious and reserved nose, with a firm,
plum skin quality. The palate is very fleshy though, with a very nice fruit
quality. Good tannins, ripe although substantial and meaty. They are very well
covered by the fruit, although being critical there is a little hint of flatness
to the texture through the midpalate. But there is a fine substance to it, and a
big tannic finish. This could be excellent. 17-18+/20
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Vieux Chateau Certan 2008: This is 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10%
Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest proportion of the last of these three for some
time. The nose is perfumed, layered, dense, but fresh and minerally. Creamy,
rounded, sweet and aromatic on the palate, with power behind this first layer.
Very floral, pretty, with bright acidity and wonderful depth and texture.
Polished, silky tannins, multi-layered and direct, this is fabulous wine.
18.5-19.5+/20
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Chateau Vray Croix de Gay 2008: Vibrant raspberry and plum on the nose here,
with a darker, slightly meaty element hiding behind. The palate starts off lean
and chalky, with more suppleness coming through in the midpalate. Light,
elegant, quite fresh, with subtle cherry fruit. A nice style. 14-15+/20
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Chateau Bertineau St Vincent (Lalande de Pomerol) 2008: A wine
from the Rolland collection. Bright,
rather perfumed fruit on the nose. A very sweet texture on the palate, with a
lot of extract underneath. Lots of tannic substance to it as well, and over all
a perfumed, violet fruit. This has a very sweet substance to it and should drink
well. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Bonnes-Rives (Lalande de Pomerol) 2008: An intense and rather dark
style of fruit, with a little tinge of cola. Fairly fresh on the palate though,
lightly structured, dry, although with more chewy extract in the midpalate. The
texture seems a little underpowered considering the frame of the wine. Nice
weight though. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Siaurac (Lalande de Pomerol) 2008: Minerally red fruits on the nose
here, with a rather leafy-sandy character to them. Fresh, gentle, lightly
textured on the palate, this has some attractive fruit although it is in a
lighter but certainly balanced style. Rather fleshy endpalate, showing a little
grip too. 15-16+/20
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La Fleur de Boüard (Lalande de Pomerol) 2008: Tasted twice. This has a
great nose, rather deep and meaty and dark, but super-ripe and rich and even hinting at
blueberry and blackcurrant complexity. A similarly rich character to the palate, textured and weighty, but
defined and balanced. Good acids and a firm finish. This has substance and ripeness. An
admirable wine. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard (Lalande de Pomerol) 2008: A super-cuvée
fermented in wide, low OVNI fermentation vats, increasing skin contact and thus
reducing the need for punching down or pumping over the cap. Then into new oak
for close to three years. Deep and smoky fruit on the nose, very aromatic and
rich. Slightly creamy fruit, textured and stylish, smoothly polished but flashy
too. Impressive, big, quite structured style, different but not necessarily
better. 16.5-17.5+/20
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