Bordeaux 2013 Primeurs: Château Cos d’Estournel
Château Cos d’Estournel is another estate that I visited in October 2013, when I tasted the 2011 vintage, but also heard some detail from winemaker Dominique Arangoits about the quality of the 2013 vintage. Tasting now, again with Dominique but also the very noble Aymeric de Gironde, provided further opportunity to hear about the vintage.
As early as June Aymeric and Dominique were aware, upon reviewing the post-flowering situation in the vineyard, that thy would not be making as much wine as they had hoped for this year; the widespread coulure meant that yields were set to be as low as ever. What they were also worried about, however, in view of the late character of the growing season, was that the vintage would also be of low quality. In truth, Aymeric’s early concerns about the vintage were expressed in rather more colourful language than that, but I have decided not to quote him verbatim as I don’t want to get him into trouble! His words were just one more example to me of the strong, honest, flannel-free leadership Aymeric de Gironde has brought to this estate. It was once a visit where the story of the vintage would always be painted as perfect (the 2011 vintage – hail, did somebody mention hail, what hail?) but these days I sense what I get here is good, honest opinion. What ultimately matters most, however, is the quality of the wine, but I find this in keeping with Aymeric’s leadership; Cos d’Estournel in 2012 and 2013 is a source of good, honest wine. Quality here, as was the case at Château Montrose, surpasses expectations in this vintage.
