Bordeaux 2013 Primeurs: St Emilion First Growths
I visited all four of St Emilion’s premier grand cru classé level ‘A’ estates, not only the two that have held this honour since the St Emilion classification was first drawn up three thousand years ago, but those that were newly elevated in the 2012 reclassification. I start with the old guard
Château Ausone
Chatting with Alain Vauthier (pictured) made plain that the growing season was as difficult here as it was elsewhere. The estate always has yields that are lower than you might expect for Bordeaux, but in 2013 they were the lowest I have ever recorded during my primeurs tastings at 22 hl/ha. For comparison, there was 26 hl/ha in 2010, 27 hl/ha in 2008 and 2009, 29 hl/ha in 2011 and 32 hl/ha in 2012. This reduction is a result of both the difficult flowering and disrupted fruit set, as well as selection at harvest time. The projected production for the vintage is therefore only 9000 bottles.
The grand vin at Château Ausone is a very classic blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot this year, and as I discovered elsewhere the Cabernet Franc comes though with a piercing beauty on the nose. Chapelle d’Ausone, the second wine, is also dominated by Cabernet Franc, reflecting the weaker character of the Merlot, with a blend matching exactly the 2012, Cabernet Franc 60%, Merlot 25% and Cabernet Sauvignon 15%. Both wines showed exceptionally well, lighter in texture as per the vintage, delicately elegant rather than sinewy or more muscular, but with a charming scented perfume. They are not the equal of what could be produced in a more favourable vintage, that is for sure, but they are not wines to be ignored if you are a deep-pocketed regular buyer of Ausone.
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