Bordeaux 2011 at Two Years: Pauillac
Further evidence of the complexities of the Bordeaux 2011 vintage can be found in Pauillac, but in a number of cases we can also see here how these difficulties have been surmounted. As discussed in previous communal reports for this review of Bordeaux 2011 at two years of age, the vintage is a complex one with a generally cool summer except for a two-day heatwave in late June, followed by unseasonably warm and dry weather before and during the harvest. This warm spring and autumn weather resulted in an early harvest, but produced wines with the leaner, fresher and cooler style of a late vintage. There were further nuances though, particularly the effect of the September sunshine causing dehydration and skin-thickening in the Cabernets as the winemakers twiddled their thumbs, waiting for the fruit to reach full ripeness. This is why this is such a hugely tannic vintage (in terms of analyses, not necessarily tasting, as that depends on the extractions).
In theory the Merlots should have done better, having been picked earlier and therefore escaping the drying heat of September, but we should remember that the great gravel mounds of the left bank are a favourable terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon, and hence this variety dominates. A winemaker can’t realistically produce a wine using 80% Merlot if he or she has 80% Cabernet Sauvignon in their vineyard, which is not that far from the truth for many of the top estates. In addition, as we have already seen in my St Estèphe report, despite this supposed ‘superiority’ many winemakers turned away from Merlot and towards Cabernet Sauvignon in preference. The Cabernets weren’t as bad as they were perhaps made out to be.
