Domaine de Bellivière, 2015 Update
The vineyards of Jasnières and the Coteaux du Loir, which lie along the valley of the Loir (along with the Coteaux du Vendômois) are perhaps – even if just slightly – disadvantaged by their more northerly position when compared with the likes of Vouvray or Montlouis. A vigneron does not enjoy an easy life in any of these appellations, especially one wedded to organic or biodynamic viticulture, so that the ever-present threat of mildew can be warded off only with the spraying of copper- and sulphur-based applications, and none of the more powerful chemicals available to others.
Eric Nicolas, of Domaine de Bellivière, has been hit hard by poor weather in recent years. In 2011 his harvest was severely curtailed by rot, and in the 2012 vintage the weather was so bad he made only 20% of his normal volume. The 2013 vintage was only slightly kinder, with a late flowering, summer rain and mildew, and a rain-soaked harvest. It was a vintage which saw a large percentage of the harvest channelled into sparkling wines or rosé.
The 2014 Vintage
Happily, on the occasion of this meeting Eric Nicolas reported that his fortunes seem to have turned in the 2014 vintage, although it does not sound ideal. Having spent quite some time in the Loire Valley in 2014 (mainly around Vouvray and Saumur, admittedly) it was a rather damp summer, but it was nothing like what Eric had dealt with in previous years. It was “easy enough”, Eric told me, before going on to confirm that he managed to achieve good concentration in the end, thanks to the dry weather than settled over the region during September and October.
