Domaine du Closel: Tasting & Drinking
This is without doubt a very popular domaine; over the years there have been few estates for which I have received so many recommendations, directions or hints that I should visit, or at least try to taste some more of the wines, as I have for Domaine du Closel. I have had infrequent encounters with the wines here and there, although it was only in early 2011 that I was fortunate enough to meet Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand (1950 – 2024) and taste my way through the range for the first time.
It is undoubtedly the Savennières that draws the most attention; tasting through a trio of vintages of the Clos du Papillon I was surprised to find so many oxidative characteristics in the wine, and although I can understand the appeal this might hold for many drinkers my earlier encounters with this cuvée did not entice me. Having said that, other vintages since encountered have shown greater purity and cleanliness, the style deeply flavoured and richly-coloured, but with no oxidation, and with the potential to age well, developing character and interest along the way. When you find a wine like this from Domaine de Closel, it makes the entire hunt worthwhile.
The key is to stick with more recent vintages. My notes below clearly describe an increase in quality here during Evelyne’s tenure, with major step changes coming in 2006 (although do not overlook 2005, I have had a number of worthwhile bottles from this vintage, although some that went down a more oxidative line) and then again in 2009. From the 2009 vintage onwards the Clos du Papillon has been very impressive, in a tense, reserved, minerally and acid-fresh style, a wine that speaks of variety and terroir in a pure voice, not one tainted by botrytis and oxidation. With this shift in style, Evelyne has brought Domaine du Closel close to the top tier in the appellation, along with the appellation’s other most successful domaines which include the revitalised Domaine aux Moines, Eric Morgat, Domaine Ogereau, Château Pierre-Bise and Damien Laureau, among others.
My encounters with Les Caillardières have been few and far between, but when I have tasted it the wine showed a conviction, tension and tautness perhaps, whereas La Jalousie has tended to be a little more straightforward, but still noteworthy. As for the other wines tasted, these ranged from idiosyncratically interesting – such as the Eau de Pluie – to just idiosyncratic. Having said that I am looking forward to my next opportunity to taste these wines, although I am deeply saddened that future tastings will not be in the company of Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand, without a doubt one of the most witty and charming winemakers I have ever encountered. (13/9/11, updated 17/6/15, 12/11/17, 18/1/25)
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