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Frédéric Mabileau Update, 2010 & 2011
Frédéric Mabileau
This update relates to wines tasted in 2010
and 2011.
For more on this estate, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Frédéric Mabileau profile.
I seem to be increasingly drawn to the white wines of Saumur and Anjou in the last year or two, more so than ever before. For most punters I suspect neither region is likely to be the first port of call in the search for a white wine from the Loire, as even those who can see past the domination of Sauvignon Blanc to the much more attractive (in my opinion) Chenin Blancs of Anjou and Touraine would most probably look to Vouvray (or these days also Montlouis), or perhaps Savennières, before turning to Saumur or Anjou. Both of these latter regions are more famous for red (Saumur & Saumur-Champigny) or sweet wines (from the Coteaux du Layon in particular) than for dry white wines.
Nevertheless the white wines of these regions are worth exploring, and they certainly offer a distinctive tasting experience that is different to that found in Vouvray, Montlouis or Savennières. Some have a surprising level of grip and structure, and are not necessarily the easy-going afterthoughts that you might expect. Some also show a remarkable degree of polish, and have clearly been fashioned by skilled hands. It is perhaps needless to say, then, that when I learnt that Frédéric Mabileau had branched out with the release of two white cuvées, one an Anjou Blanc and one a Saumur, I was keen to get to grips with the wines.
Unlike nearby Chinon, where appellation regulations allow for white as well as the more famous red, this is not the case in Bourgueil or St Nicolas de Bourgueil, hence Frédéric has looked to these neighbouring appellations to make his white wines. But looking beyond his St Nicolas vines is nothing new to Frédéric, whose domaine lies on the cusp of the St Nicolas de Bourgueil and Anjou appellations, with vineyards on both sides of the border. This slightly peculiar arrangement has long given a curious twist to the Mabileau portfolio, this being the slightly incongruous appearance of a lone example of Anjou Rouge alongside the numerous different cuvées of Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil. Thus Frédéric is one of only a handful of vignerons that is accustomed to regularly producing wines from both Anjou and Touraine terroirs.
Chenin de Frédéric
The first of these two wines to be released was a white Saumur christened Chenin de Puy; sourced from 45-year old vines planted on a clay and limestone terroir around Le Puy Notre Dame, this was first released in the 2007 vintage (tasted here). The 2007 was harvested in two tries, with an eventual yield of 45 hl/ha, and fermentation was in large oak demi-muids for 20% of the harvest with subsequent bâtonnage. The other 80% is fermented in stainless steel, and after nine months the whole is blended before bottling. It showed better than the more recently tasted 2008 vintage, 30% of which went into new barrels for six months; this imbued the wine with a very oaky character that didn't inspire as much confidence as the 2007.
More recently Frédéric has followed up with Chenin des Rouillères, an Anjou Blanc from vines just across the border with the St Nicolas de Bourgueil appellation, planted on a sandy-gravelly terroir. The vines are tended using organic methods, and the first vintage when they yielded fruit - an incredibly low 8 hl/ha, as it happens - was 2009. The fermentation was cool, using indigenous yeasts. I tasted both of these new white cuvées for the first time in 2010, and was able to revisit both in the same or subsequent vintages earlier this year. I have found the wines suitably appealing, and the 2010 Chenin des Rouillères was convincing enough for me buy some in order to taste it again for myself, at home, and it is this that has prompted me to publish these notes. (24/8/11)
Frédéric Mabileau, 2010 & 2011 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted in Angers at the Salon des
Vins de Loire in 2010 and 2011, and at home in Scotland. All my notes on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau, including those below, are collated under my
Frédéric Mabileau profile. Click
to locate stockists.
Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Chenin des Rouillères 2010:
This wine has a pure lemon-straw hue; although when pouring there seem to be
hints of onion-skin, in the glass that certainly isn't true, the hue pure and
clean. Aromatically this is a delight, with a wealth of very expressive white
fruit here including notes of white peach, pear and apple, all backed up by a
sherbetty freshness. This explosive combination comes through on the palate
right at the beginning, the pure and clean fruit salad running along with a
fabulous minerality, and then a fine and incisive acidity which together give
the wine a vivacious, sherbetty lift which they manage to do without making it
seem in any way simple or obvious. It keeps this vigorous energy going right
through the middle of the palate, into the finish, the wine never once letting
go of its fine structure. This is, in short, brilliant wine. It seems to combine
that soft, dessert-apple seduction which Chenin Blanc does so well with a
remarkable tension which, in the finish, seems to linger effortlessly. Overall,
glorious and impressive. How could anybody resist this? 17/20
Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Chenin des Rouillères 2010: A sample from cuve,
yet to be bottled. From Mabileau's Anjou vineyards which lie just across the
appellation border from the Rouillères plot in St Nicolas de Bourgueil; the
soils are gravelly and sandy. The second vintage, vines now five years old. Just
0.53 hectares planted, yield 15 hl/ha (up from 8 h/ha in 2009!), fermented in
stainless steel. Fresh fruit on the nose, very appley, quite expressive. Showing
some concentration here, with a rather honeyed substance on the palate, polished
and full, but very well defined structure around the wine's solid core, with a
slightly dried fruit character. Very fresh, a richer style than I expected, but
still very clean, even with those little twists of tropical fruit character.
17/20
Frédéric Mabileau
Chenin du Puy Saumur 2008: The relevant vines here are close to the Puy-Notre-Dame appellation,
with a terroir of clay and limestone. The vines are 30-years old. The
fermentation is principally in stainless steel, with a percentage in oak; the
élevage sees 30% in new oak barrels, for 6 months, the rest remains en cuve.
Now in bottle. This has a lovely nose, honeyed but very composed, with finely
defined fruit. It is allowing the oak character to show through here though. A
finely polished substance on the palate, although there is lots of substance
here, some of it oak-derived admittedly. The raw material here is good but I
think less overt oak influence would be preferable, especially for current
drinking. 15.5/20
Frédéric Mabileau
Rosé de Loire Osez 2009: This cuvée originates with Cabernet Franc vines
which range from 10 to 35 years old, 21-years old on average, with a yield of 50
hl/ha in this vintage. The soils are sandy and gravelly. It has a fresh and
delicate nose. On the palate it seems supple, with some pretty red fruits. This
is a perfumed, attractive Rosé de Loire. Generally described as dry but I do
find a little sweetness here, but also a lovely bright character to the acidity
which keeps it fresh. 15/20
Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2009: This is
Mabileau's entry-level cuvée, 100% Cabernet Franc, from 36-year old vines
planted on sandy and gravelly soils bordering the Anjou appellation. It is
fermented entirely en cuve, with remontage and cold maceration to
enhance the fruit. A warm and rather sandy nose here, with a very typical style,
all rather polished off and smooth. Nevertheless it has more structure and
definition on the palate than the rather warm and soft nose suggested, with a
nice if gentle grip in the finish. Very much an easy-going, early-drinking
cuvée. That's sand for you. 15/20
Frédéric Mabileau Bourgueil Racines 2009:
This cuvée comes from clay and gravel soils, 100% Cabernet Franc,
from 47-year old vines. Fermented in steel with remontage, but then into
600-litre oak demi-muids (4-years old) for 11 months. Despite the use of
older and larger barrels this still shows a lot of sweet chocolatey oak on the nose.
The palate is supple though, with an appealing
substance, and very well-underpinned by its acidity, keeping it fresh. It has a
rather appealing
crunchy fruit finish though, with a little creamed fruit also evident here. There must be potential
for the cellar under all this surface dressing. 16/20
Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Coutures 2009: This is 100% Cabernet Franc
from sand and gravel soils. The vines are 42-years, and after fermentation
in steel it goes into 600-litre oak demi-muids (3-years old) for 11
months. Here we have a more gamey, meaty style of Cabernet Franc. Nevertheless
it maintains a supple style on
the palate, with polished fruit, quite a crunchy backbone, and overall attractive
this seems attractive, especially as it is underpinned by a fine, ripe tannic backbone.
This leads to quite an appealing, supple, silky-tannic grip in the
end. I think this could be really good when it comes together. 17/20
Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Eclipse No. 8 2008: This
comes from clay and limestone soils, and is not a cuvée produced
every year. The last vintage was 2005; I assume 'No. 8' indicates this is the
eight release (since the first which was in ). The vines have over 60 years
behind them. The vinification is in 600-litre demi-muids (50% new, 50%
1-year old), the same for the élevage, which lasts for 12 months. A very
dark colour in the glass here. Quite nicely defined fruit, although with a very
polished oak character as well, and yet a rather cool style on the palate. Quite
gamey, with good substance and texture. Lots of tannic grip at the finish. Most
admirably there is a silky-velvety quality to the tannin. The oak is better
integrated than you might think, and the acid and grip keeps it together. Good
potential here. 17.5/20
Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Chenin des Rouillères 2009: This is the first
vintage of this white cuvée at Domaine Mabileau, following on from the release
of the Saumur Blanc a few years ago. The vines were planted right on the border
of the Anjou appellation with St Nicolas de Bourgueil four years ago, and the
first harvest was very small (8 hl/ha). For bottling spring 2010. Fermented in
steel and then held there until bottling, this wine has a fine aromatic nose. It
is still very primary, with notes of roasted pears, but also very fresh and
stylish. Quite soft on the palate, gentle and composed, then through the
midpalate a more vibrant acidity suddenly appears. There is lovely potential
here. 16.5-17.5/20
Frédéric Mabileau Chenin du Puy Saumur 2007: From 1.5 hectares of vines in Le Puy
Notre Dame, 100% Chenin Blanc, picked during two passes through the vineyard on
September 29th and October 12th. Yield 45 hl/ha. Bottled June 2008. This is the first vintage released. Of the total, 20% is fermented
in demi-muids with bâtonnage, the rest in steel. A very
citrus-influenced set of aromas, very tight, compact and strong. Lovely and
gentle flesh at the start, soft and broad. A nice gentle acidity at the
beginning, leading into a soft and creamy midpalate. Fresh, with a stony bite,
this is very good. I suspect it will come together with time. 16.5/20
Frédéric Mabileau Rosé de Loire Osez 2009: This cuvée originated from
100% Cabernet Franc vines which are 20-years old on average, with a yield of 50
hl/ha in this vintage. The soils are sandy and gravelly. It is due to be bottled
in spring 2010. A nice and rather delicate colour here, with a rather
crunchy-stony fruit character. A touch of fat in the middle, a little polish,
fresh and crisply defined. A good effort. 15/20
Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2009: Cabernet
Franc grown on sandy-gravelly soils, fermented in stainless steel, to be bottled
spring 2010. Somewhat fresher on the nose than the 2008 by comparison, although
it gives the impression that there is a deeper vein of fruit here. A sappy
texture on the palate, attractive, with lots of fresh character. A good acid
core, with just a touch more tannin than the 2008 perhaps reflecting the warmth
of the vintage. An attractive if rather straightforward wine; I suggest it be
left for 1-2 years to integrate, then drunk. 15-16/20
Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2008: This is
Mabileau's entry-level cuvée, 100% Cabernet Franc, from 35-year old vines
planted on sandy and gravelly soils bordering the Anjou appellation. Cabernet
Franc grown on a sand and gravel terroir, fermented in stainless steel. The
fruit here has a fresh and smoky style, with an attractive dark red character. A
nicely textured palate, very fresh, stony, crisp with defined fruit. Light in
tannin and structure, but with good acidity, I think this is a cuvée for
drinking now. 15.5/20
Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Rouge 2008: Mabileau is unusual in having
Anjou and Touraine vines; this wine originates from vines adjacent to La
Rouillères in the St Nicolas de Bourgueil appellation. It is also 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon, so this is a real diversion away from the usual Mabileau style. From
19-year old vines, harvested at 25 hl/ha, planted on sand and gravel. A good
colour here, dark and with appealing depth. Cranberry fruit, with a tinge of
aromatic dark chocolate. The palate holds just as much appeal as the nose,
rounded and polished, but also accessible and textured. There are some nicely
ripe tannins to the finish. Although a 'basic' Anjou Rouge this is finely
composed with some lovely savoury tannin showing through in the finish. 17/20
Frédéric Mabileau Bourgueil Racines 2008: This cuvée comes from clay
and gravel soils, 100% Cabernet Franc, from 46-year old vines.
Fermented in steel with remontage, but then into 600-litre oak demi-muids
(4-years old) for 11 months. A very aromatic nose, stylish and full of dark
fruits, with a gentle lick of oak. A beautiful combination of texture and
floral-scented fruit at first, but then with more supple and ripe tannins coming
in. A firm backbone but very harmoniously composed around it. This is a lovely
wine with lots of potential. 17.5/20
Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Coutures 2008: This is
100% Cabernet Franc from sand and gravel soils. The vines are 42-years, and
after fermentation in steel it goes into 600-litre oak demi-muids
(3-years old) for 11 months. A touch less colour than the 2008 Racines, and a
warmer style on the nose. There is a slightly cooked edge to the fruit as well.
Nevertheless it is certainly pretty, and there is a good supple stony texture
underneath. A nice fruit presence, with good tannin in the finish. 15.5/20
Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Eclipse No. 8 2008: This is
the first time this cuvée has been produced since the 2005 vintage. Pure Cabernet Franc from vines over 60-years old, the terroir
is a mix of clay and limestone. Fermented in 600-lite demi-muids (50% new, 50%
1-year old), where the wine rests for malolactic and the élevage. Not a
very expressive nose here today, showing some oak and some dense fruit although
it is hardly leaping from the glass. The palate has a lovely texture, the wine
possessing a rather soft start but this hides a lot of structure beneath. Dark,
tannic, grippy, with a really firm structure out at the edges, this is a wine
with a lot of substance. Needs cellar time. 17-18/20
