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Frédéric Mabileau

Frédéric Mabileau operates a 27 ha domaine, with the majority of the vines concentrated in St Nicolas de Bourgueil. Frederic is of a winemaking family, his father, Jean-Paul, having been proprietor at Domaine du Bourg. Some of these old family vineyards have recently been brought back into the Mabileau family, as Frédéric, with wife Nathalie, is determined to expand and improve his domaine. He manages his vineyards with a great consideration for the soil, the environment, and the quality of the fruit that results. The vines, predominantly Cabernet Franc, are largely Guyot trained, see leaf thinning as required, are interplanted with grass to encourage the vine roots deeper into the soil, and are hand-harvested.

The Mabileau portfolio is headed up by three cuvées of St Nicolas de Bourgueil, of which Les Rouillères is the entry level wine. This comes from vines, aged between 15 and 35 years and harvested at 55 hl/ha, on a smallholding at the heart of the St Nicolas appellation after which the cuvée is named. It is fermented in stainless steel, with punching down of the cap, and sees up to ten days maceration in total, and is bottled with only a very gentle filtration. It's a successful wine, with two previous vintages picking up a Coup de Couer in the Guide Hachette and Revue des Vins de France. Next comes Les Coutures, from 40 year-old vines, harvested at 45 hl/ha; this sees cold fermentation in oak, with a year of oak-ageing after fermentation. The premier wine is Eclipse, from 50 year-old vines harvested at 35 hl/ha, which is otherwise handled in much the same way as Les Coutures. In addition there is Les Racines, a Bourgueil from clay-limestone terroir, as opposed to the St Nicolas vines which are on more typical sand-gravel-clay mixtures. Here the vines are 45 years old, harvested at 40 hl/ha, and the wine sees six months in oak before bottling. Two final wines complete the portfolio, an AC Anjou Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cabernet Franc rosé named Osez. (28/2/06)

Contact details:
Address: 6 rue de Pressoir, 37140 St Nicolas de Bourgueil
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 97 79 58
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 97 45 19
Internet: www.fredericmabileau.com

Frédéric Mabileau - Tasting Notes

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White Wines

Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Chenin des Rouillères 2010: This wine has a pure lemon-straw hue; although when pouring there seem to be hints of onion-skin, in the glass that certainly isn't true, the hue pure and clean. Aromatically this is a delight, with a wealth of very expressive white fruit here including notes of white peach, pear and apple, all backed up by a sherbetty freshness. This explosive combination comes through on the palate right at the beginning, the pure and clean fruit salad running along with a fabulous minerality, and then a fine and incisive acidity which together give the wine a vivacious, sherbetty lift which they manage to do without making it seem in any way simple or obvious. It keeps this vigorous energy going right through the middle of the palate, into the finish, the wine never once letting go of its fine structure. This is, in short, brilliant wine. It seems to combine that soft, dessert-apple seduction which Chenin Blanc does so well with a remarkable tension which, in the finish, seems to linger effortlessly. Overall, glorious and impressive. How could anybody resist this? From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 17/20 (August 2011)

Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Chenin des Rouillères 2010: A sample from cuve, yet to be bottled. From Mabileau's Anjou vineyards which lie just across the appellation border from the Rouillères plot in St Nicolas de Bourgueil; the soils are gravelly and sandy. The second vintage, vines now five years old. Just 0.53 hectares planted, yield 15 hl/ha (up from 8 h/ha in 2009!), fermented in stainless steel. Fresh fruit on the nose, very appley, quite expressive. Showing some concentration here, with a rather honeyed substance on the palate, polished and full, but very well defined structure around the wine's solid core, with a slightly dried fruit character. Very fresh, a richer style than I expected, but still very clean, even with those little twists of tropical fruit character. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 17/20 (January 2011)

White Wines

Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Chenin des Rouillères 2009: This is the first vintage of this white cuvée at Domaine Mabileau, following on from the release of the Saumur Blanc a few years ago. The vines were planted right on the border of the Anjou appellation with St Nicolas de Bourgueil four years ago, and the first harvest was very small (8 hl/ha). For bottling spring 2010. Fermented in steel and then held there until bottling, this wine has a fine aromatic nose. It is still very primary, with notes of roasted pears, but also very fresh and stylish. Quite soft on the palate, gentle and composed, then through the midpalate a more vibrant acidity suddenly appears. There is lovely potential here. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 16.5-17.5/20 (February 2010)

Rosé Wines

Frédéric Mabileau Rosé de Loire Osez 2009: This cuvée originates with Cabernet Franc vines which range from 10 to 35 years old, 21-years old on average, with a yield of 50 hl/ha in this vintage. The soils are sandy and gravelly. It has a fresh and delicate nose. On the palate it seems supple, with some pretty red fruits. This is a perfumed, attractive Rosé de Loire. Generally described as dry but I do find a little sweetness here, but also a lovely bright character to the acidity which keeps it fresh. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 15/20 (January 2011)

Frédéric Mabileau Rosé de Loire Osez 2009: This cuvée originated from 100% Cabernet Franc vines which are 20-years old on average, with a yield of 50 hl/ha in this vintage. The soils are sandy and gravelly. It is due to be bottled in spring 2010. A nice and rather delicate colour here, with a rather crunchy-stony fruit character. A touch of fat in the middle, a little polish, fresh and crisply defined. A good effort. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 15/20 (February 2010)

Red Wines

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2009: This is Mabileau's entry-level cuvée, 100% Cabernet Franc, from 36-year old vines planted on sandy and gravelly soils bordering the Anjou appellation. It is fermented entirely en cuve, with remontage and cold maceration to enhance the fruit. A warm and rather sandy nose here, with a very typical style, all rather polished off and smooth. Nevertheless it has more structure and definition on the palate than the rather warm and soft nose suggested, with a nice if gentle grip in the finish. Very much an easy-going, early-drinking cuvée. That's sand for you. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 15/20 (January 2011)

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2009: Cabernet Franc grown on sandy-gravelly soils, fermented in stainless steel, to be bottled spring 2010. Somewhat fresher on the nose than the 2008 by comparison, although it gives the impression that there is a deeper vein of fruit here. A sappy texture on the palate, attractive, with lots of fresh character. A good acid core, with just a touch more tannin than the 2008 perhaps reflecting the warmth of the vintage. An attractive if rather straightforward wine; I suggest it be left for 1-2 years to integrate, then drunk. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 15-16/20 (February 2010)

Frédéric Mabileau Bourgueil Racines 2009: This cuvée comes from clay and gravel soils, 100% Cabernet Franc, from 47-year old vines. Fermented in steel with remontage, but then into 600-litre oak demi-muids (4-years old) for 11 months. Despite the use of older and larger barrels this still shows a lot of sweet chocolatey oak on the nose. The palate is supple though, with an appealing substance, and very well-underpinned by its acidity, keeping it fresh. It has a rather appealing crunchy fruit finish though, with a little creamed fruit also evident here. There must be potential for the cellar under all this surface dressing. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 16/20 (January 2011)

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Coutures 2009: This is 100% Cabernet Franc from sand and gravel soils. The vines are 42-years, and after fermentation in steel it goes into 600-litre oak demi-muids (3-years old) for 11 months. Here we have a more gamey, meaty style of Cabernet Franc. Nevertheless it maintains a supple style on the palate, with polished fruit, quite a crunchy backbone, and overall attractive this seems attractive, especially as it is underpinned by a fine, ripe tannic backbone. This leads to quite an appealing, supple, silky-tannic grip in the end. I think this could be really good when it comes together. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 17/20 (January 2011)

White Wines

Frédéric Mabileau Chenin du Puy Saumur 2008: The relevant vines here are close to the Puy-Notre-Dame appellation, with a terroir of clay and limestone. The vines are 30-years old. The fermentation is principally in stainless steel, with a percentage in oak; the élevage sees 30% in new oak barrels, for 6 months, the rest remains en cuve. Now in bottle. This has a lovely nose, honeyed but very composed, with finely defined fruit. It is allowing the oak character to show through here though. A finely polished substance on the palate, although there is lots of substance here, some of it oak-derived admittedly. The raw material here is good but I think less overt oak influence would be preferable, especially for current drinking. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 15.5/20 (January 2011)

Red Wines

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2008: This is Mabileau's entry-level cuvée, 100% Cabernet Franc, from 35-year old vines planted on sandy and gravelly soils bordering the Anjou appellation. Cabernet Franc grown on a sand and gravel terroir, fermented in stainless steel. The fruit here has a fresh and smoky style, with an attractive dark red character. A nicely textured palate, very fresh, stony, crisp with defined fruit. Light in tannin and structure, but with good acidity, I think this is a cuvée for drinking now. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 15.5/20 (February 2010)

Frédéric Mabileau Anjou Rouge 2008: Mabileau is unusual in having Anjou and Touraine vines; this wine originates from vines adjacent to La Rouillères in the St Nicolas de Bourgueil appellation. It is also 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, so this is a real diversion away from the usual Mabileau style. From 19-year old vines, harvested at 25 hl/ha, planted on sand and gravel. A good colour here, dark and with appealing depth. Cranberry fruit, with a tinge of aromatic dark chocolate. The palate holds just as much appeal as the nose, rounded and polished, but also accessible and textured. There are some nicely ripe tannins to the finish. Although a 'basic' Anjou Rouge this is finely composed with some lovely savoury tannin showing through in the finish. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 17/20 (February 2010)

Frédéric Mabileau Bourgueil Racines 2008: This cuvée comes from clay and gravel soils, 100% Cabernet Franc, from 46-year old vines. Fermented in steel with remontage, but then into 600-litre oak demi-muids (4-years old) for 11 months. A very aromatic nose, stylish and full of dark fruits, with a gentle lick of oak. A beautiful combination of texture and floral-scented fruit at first, but then with more supple and ripe tannins coming in. A firm backbone but very harmoniously composed around it. This is a lovely wine with lots of potential. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 17.5/20 (February 2010)

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Coutures 2008: This is 100% Cabernet Franc from sand and gravel soils. The vines are 42-years, and after fermentation in steel it goes into 600-litre oak demi-muids (3-years old) for 11 months. A touch less colour than the 2008 Racines, and a warmer style on the nose. There is a slightly cooked edge to the fruit as well. Nevertheless it is certainly pretty, and there is a good supple stony texture underneath. A nice fruit presence, with good tannin in the finish. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 15.5/20 (February 2010)

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Eclipse No. 8 2008: This comes from clay and limestone soils, and is not a cuvée produced every year. The last vintage was 2005; I assume 'No. 8' indicates this is the eight release (since the first which was in ). The vines have over 60 years behind them. The vinification is in 600-litre demi-muids (50% new, 50% 1-year old), the same for the élevage, which lasts for 12 months. A very dark colour in the glass here. Quite nicely defined fruit, although with a very polished oak character as well, and yet a rather cool style on the palate. Quite gamey, with good substance and texture. Lots of tannic grip at the finish. Most admirably there is a silky-velvety quality to the tannin. The oak is better integrated than you might think, and the acid and grip keeps it together. Good potential here. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Eclipse No. 8 2008: This is the first time this cuvée has been produced since the 2005 vintage. Pure Cabernet Franc from vines over 60-years old, the terroir is a mix of clay and limestone. Fermented in 600-lite demi-muids (50% new, 50% 1-year old), where the wine rests for malolactic and the élevage. Not a very expressive nose here today, showing some oak and some dense fruit although it is hardly leaping from the glass. The palate has a lovely texture, the wine possessing a rather soft start but this hides a lot of structure beneath. Dark, tannic, grippy, with a really firm structure out at the edges, this is a wine with a lot of substance. Needs cellar time. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 17-18/20 (February 2010)

White Wines

Frédéric Mabileau Chenin du Puy Saumur 2007: From 1.5 hectares of vines in Le Puy Notre Dame, 100% Chenin Blanc, picked during two passes through the vineyard on September 29th and October 12th. Yield 45 hl/ha. Bottled June 2008. This is the first vintage released. Of the total, 20% is fermented in demi-muids with bâtonnage, the rest in steel. A very citrus-influenced set of aromas, very tight, compact and strong. Lovely and gentle flesh at the start, soft and broad. A nice gentle acidity at the beginning, leading into a soft and creamy midpalate. Fresh, with a stony bite, this is very good. I suspect it will come together with time. From a report on the wines of Frédéric Mabileau. 16.5/20 (February 2010)

Red Wines

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2005: This is Mabileau's entry-level cuvée, and comes from a sandy-gravelly terroir. As such I think five years of age is perhaps the perfect time to be drinking it (unlike some other wines in this tasting!). It has a great, still-youthful colour in the glass. And there is plenty of similarly youthful character on the nose, notes of cherry stone, touches of smoke, and also elements of green, with a suggestion of some sappy stems of mint. Hot smoke too. A nice substance on entry, freshly textured in keeping with its gravelly origins, bright with both substance and acidity. Overall, a lovely mouthful of sour-stony fruit buoyed up by fine texture and gentle acidity. Nice drinking. From a Loire 2005 assessment. 16.5/20 (January 2011)

Frédéric Mabileau Bourgueil Racines 2005: This wine has a very appealing and dark hue in the glass. On the nose there is crunchy fruit, with a green, blackcurrant character, peppered with a rich, herby edge. This wine has a very fresh and cool style, stony and firm, medium bodied at best. A very firm acidic core, ripe and fresh, showing crisp fruit with plenty of greenery too. It culminates in a sappy and gently tannin-infused finish. Overall this wine has a good, bright style, lean and stony rather than fleshy, but appealing all the same. This is good. From my 2008 Loire wine tasting notes. 15/20 (July 2008)

Red Wines

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères 2004: This has a delightful, youthful colour, still with a tinge of purple. Blackberry fruit on the nose, with some buttery crumble notes, and a peppery twist too. On the palate this is dry, savoury and reserved, but with really nice blackberry and raspberry fruit. Behind it there sits just a little seam of tannin, which suggests that this will drink very well for several years, although it is lovely to drink now. Nice, dry and mouth-watering, even if a little short on the finish. This is very good indeed. 16.5+/20 (February 2006)

Red Wines

Frédéric Mabileau Bourgueil Racines 2003: A huge slug of tartrate crystals is the first thing I notice; the next is the fresh, youthful colour. The nose takes a few hours to open up, allowing some confected aromas to blow off, giving way to some fresh, mineral-laced black cherry fruit with a green capsicum twist. Medium bodied, with nice extract, but quite reserved, with firm acidity. Black fruits with a little garden mint. Nicely rounded, rather dry and sappy tannins showing in the finish. Nice length. Overall a rather traditional style. 16.5/20 (February 2006)