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Bordeaux 2007: The Right Bank
Bordeaux 2007
En primeur
St Emilion & Pomerol
This is not 1998 all over again, believe me. But if I were pressed on whether the 2007 vintage favoured the left bank or the right (let us just disregard Sauternes for a moment) then I would perhaps come down - albeit marginally - on the right bank of the Gironde. Or, to be geographically correct, the right bank of the Dordogne, as this is where the two main appellations, St Emilion and Pomerol, actually lie.
My opening statement might seem strange in reflection, after all these are wines based on Merlot in the majority of cases, and as I have stated in my Bordeaux 2007 vintage review the ripening of this variety was very retarded this year, with many estates still picking Merlot when the Cabernet harvest began. That is not the same as saying, however, that the Merlot was unripe; greenness was not largely a problem in these wines (this is true of the vintage as a whole). On the whole I felt the wines displayed more substance than those of the left bank; admittedly, again, these are Merlot-dominated wines, which means early tasting will be a different experience, but these wines gave more through the midpalate than those from the Médoc. There was a better balance, a better coating of fruit over the structure, and overall more promise for the future.

Of course, part of my problem with these appellations - with particular emphasis on St Emilion - is that there is a tendency to over-extract. Hugely concentrated wines, rich in drying, rasping tannins are not really my cup of tea. Happily, though, this seemed less of an issue this year. Perhaps as a response to the vintage, some seemed to have reined in the extraction, and may of the wines seem to have a good balance as a result. Even those wines that tend to feature more extraction than others - such as Pavie-Macquin and Larcis-Ducasse, both estates managed by Nicolas Thienpoint, who I met at Stéphane Derenoncourt's La Grappe tasting at La Gaffelière - seemed less overdone than they have done in previous vintages. Indeed, I though the Pavie-Macquin really rather good.
Although wines from St Emilion and Pomerol pop up everywhere - Nenin tasted at Léoville-Las-Cases, Petit-Village tasted at Pichon-Baron, and so on - the tastings were largely concentrated on a single day, affording me a fabulous opportunity to take as detailed and concentrated a look at these two communes as perhaps I could possibly hope for. The Moueix stable provided a first glance at how Pomerol had faired, with a widened exposure at the UGC tasting at Petit-Village, as well as a visit to Le Pin. For St Emilion, data gathered at the UGC tasting hosted by Chateau Laroze was augmented by visits to Ausone and Cheval-Blanc. The day finished up at the aforementioned Derenoncourt tasting, where more right bank wines sat alongside others from as far afield as Savennières and the Ribera del Duero.
Suffice to say that some wines - Ausone, Cheval-Blanc, Le Pin, Petrus and Trotanoy come immediately to mind - were exceedingly good. It is near impossible for me to provide a comparison with other recent vintages, but I should point out that in the only comparative tasting of 2006 against 2007 done on the day, which was at Le Pin, the 2006 was clearly superior to its 2007 stablemate. Perhaps this would be true of the other wines also? So, accepting that a handful of wines are good, I suspect they would not be so convincing if lined up against their 2006 counterparts, and I am sure they would skulk away in shame if they came face to face with a bottle of the 2005. But there is quality here, to an extent; whether or not the wines are worth buying, whether they offer the right value, naturally depends on the prix de sortie. It is almost certain to be in many cases, in my opinion, too high. (16/4/08)
The Right Bank 2007: Tasting Notes
Tasted in Bordeaux in April 2008. Click
to locate
stockists:
Chateau Angélus 2007: A deep, brooding nose, stuffed with characterful fruit
with a slightly gamey edge. Very ripe fruit profile on the palate, with a firm
composition and elegantly ripe tannins. A wine of serious intent, this has
plenty of extract although it is not overdone, and carries a fine weight.
Overall, considering the vintage, this is very appealing. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Ausone 2007: There is
a lovely presence of exotic spices on the nose here, an intense character, and
some nutty oak. The palate starts off quite lovely, with svelte, well-knit
composition. There is sappy fruit over a somewhat silky texture, with just a
little firmness in the midpalate. It maintains a broad and constant presence
through the midpalate and has a fine, fading, elegant finish. Overall this
appears to be really delicious, a superbly harmonious effort which has overperformed in a lesser vintage. Excellent potential. 17-18+/20
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La Chapelle d'Ausone 2007: This is the second wine of Ausone, and is produced
from a selection made in the vineyard. There is a beautiful purity of fruit, which has a summer fruit character,
particularly cherry. A lovely structure, gently persuasive, a little creamy,
with a svelte presence on the palate. Underneath it some appealing grip. For a
second wine in a lesser vintage, really rather good. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Belair 2007: Sweet
fruit, vanilla cream, attractive summer pudding character on the nose. A supple
flesh on the palate, quite nicely balanced, softly styled with a gentle
composition. Quite firm underneath though. A good presence of clean fruit at the
finish, where there is a little more tannin evident. Good potential here.
14-15+/20
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Chateau Bellevue 2007: This wine has some rich sweet oak aromas, with some
super-ripe almost blue-black fruit. Although there is richness there is also
purity, and in fact there is a pretty, elegant poise to it on the palate. Good
firm tannins, quite fleshy and flattering, but with a good balance despite there
being quite some grip towards the end. I think this is very attractive.
16-17+/20
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Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière 2007:
A sweet and creamy nose, showing attractive plum and spice aromas, at the outset
this sample has an appealing style. There is a textured, fleshy and yet firmly
composed palate, which maintains a stylish demeanour rather than anything more
flashy through the midpalate. Underneath there is a good grip, ripe tannins and
good acidity too. It captures the vintage nicely. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Cheval-Blanc 2007: There is aromatic complexity here, purity and
depth, and it is very expressive of the fruit which is 55% Cabernet Franc and
45% Merlot. Rich but well defined, and this continues on the palate which shows
overtly more substance and depth than the Petit Cheval, together with a finer
balance. The texture is silky, fresh and there is a vigorous style here. Gently
composed, integrated, pure and stylish, with a lovely finish and even some
length, this is a success in this vintage. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Le Petit Cheval 2007: This, the second wine of
Cheval-Blanc, is more strongly
dominated by Cabernet Franc in this vintage than is usual, as it accounts for
70% of the blend, the remainder being Merlot. There is a meaty density here, but
fruit purity too, and a brightness which is appealing. On the palate a very firm
acid structure combined with rather soft tannins to support a layer of bright
and peppery flavours. It has a good grip, and a direct, well defined and elegant
style. For a second wine, this stylish effort over-performs. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Figeac 2007: There is
immediately apparent fruit complexity here, with a nose that shows plenty of
deeply piled fruit which has a slightly gamey, slightly savage quality. Then it
transforms on the palate, displaying here a
serene and creamy elegance, although beneath there lies a brooding depth and
structure. This is sweet and sappy, with a lovely backbone of ripe tannins which
are well covered by the fruit at present. Really, a very good wine indeed.
16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau Fonbel 2007: This is dark and rather meaty, full and expressive on
the nose. The palate is flashy, with a soft, creamy, chewy presence
reflecting considerable extraction of tannins (and colour). Rather moderate
acidity, overall a softer, modern, pleasantly styled wine which will appeal to
someone. 14-15+/20
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Clos Fourtet 2007: Tasted
twice during the primeurs week, I liked the aromas
of roasted meat on the nose here, alongside a wealth of complex, spicy, creamy
blue-black fruit. Huge and quite flattering on the palate, but with a bright
character and good flesh covering the firm tannic and acidic structure. This is
really nicely put together, but it does have a big, forceful style, albeit
balanced, that might not appeal to all. I like it though. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau Grand Mayne 2007: A
lovely density of aroma here, a brooding style, with lots of depth. This is true
for the palate as well, which shows a lot of substance, although it all remains
nicely balanced through the midpalate. It has a firm grip but it is well coated
in fruit, and the acidity is a little gentler than some of its peers. This is a
real success for this estate, which I hope comes through in the bottled wine.
16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau La Gaffelière 2007:
Tasted twice during the primeurs week, this wine has aromatic fruit, freshly
delivered, a nose of crunchy raspberry fruit mixed with flattering cream. It has
a lovely style on the palate, which is creamy and persistent, and has a fine
composition. Rounded fruit covers the tannic grip, and there is a lot of
substance underneath. It is a little leaner further on in the palate, but it has
vigour and life. Very good potential here. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2007:
This is appealingly aromatic, with notes of vanilla, plum and bright summer
pudding fruits. The palate is full, sweet and creamy, although it soon reveals a
very hard extract beneath which is only partially covered by the overlying
fruit. Firm acidity, a well structured wine, showing a chewy and drying grip at
the finish. The extraction here is borderline, as with the 2005, so it will be
interesting to see how this fairs once in bottle, but I think it could be very
good indeed. 16-17+?/20
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Chateau Larmande 2007:
A darker, more plummy style of fruit than many of the
other wines on show today, but it has an appealing freshness too. This is
matched by plenty of attractive acidity on the palate, matched with a full and
gently creamy texture and a good bite of tannins. It is all nicely mixed
together and is even a little flashy. A nice wine. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Lucia 2007: Bright and aromatic fruit on the nose, very pure and
lively. The palate is rich and creamy, with a lot of midpalate pepper. This is
very attractive, with plenty of acid bite, and a nice extract. Firm but not
overdone, this has potential. Very good. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Magdelaine 2007: A more stony character than the other Moueix St
Emilions, but warmly expressive. Less impact on the palate than I expected, less
flattering, with ripe and peppery tannins. It is firm, with a lot of tannic
structure and acid, and not a wealth of flesh. Again, a sample showing a touch
too much extraction for me I think, but it is borderline. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau Moulin-Saint-Georges 2007: Rather restrained and slightly stony fruit
on the nose, not so expressive as Simard and Fonbel tasted alongside. The palate is
gentle, balanced, with a firm midpalate. There is sufficient fruit and flesh to
match the slightly hard tannic backbone, and through the midpalate it even shows
a little svelte and creamy character. This has a good style. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Pavie-Macquin 2007:
Tasted twice during the primeurs week, the second sample was the more convincing
of the two. It has plenty of exuberantly rich, super-ripe expressive fruit, with
aromas of liquorice and pure plum and blackberry. Fresh on entry, supple in
style, with a high level of extract, but this is well covered by the texture of
the wine and doesn't appear to be excessive. A creamy midpalate, overall
integrated and stylish. This is certainly seems less overdone than the 2005 and I like
it. Very good potential. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Rol Valentin 2007: Liquorice, ink and orange peel on the nose here,
along with pepper and spice. Rather drying tannins, this wine has a big
extraction for the full and ripe fruit to live up to. There is an appealing
texture, with a little freshness, but it is bordering on overworked for me.
14-15+?/20
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Chateau La Serre 2007: Sweet, toasty, oak-laden fruit here, with a liquorice,
brambly, slightly exotic character. Quite fleshy and creamy on entry,
flattering, textured, but with a wealth of tannins showing in the midpalate
giving a lot of punch. Chewy, ripe, a wine of substance but with rather heavy
extraction for me. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Simard 2007: This wine has some very firm black fruits on the nose, with a
bright and minerally character. This firm and stony style comes through on the
palate which is upright and attractive, gently minerally, with a firm midpalate
and finish. There is plenty of grip here too. This has some potential, and is
overall a nice wine. 14-15+/20
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Chateau La Tour du Pin 2007: This was once one of the La Tour du Pin Figeac estates,
recently purchased and now run by the team at
Cheval-Blanc. This is the first
vintage that they are prepared to show, and it is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet
Sauvignon. It does not have a very aromatic nose, but the palate carries some
promise. There is a good substance to it, a stylish and rather creamy character,
and nicely covered tannins. Firm acid backbone. It shows little in the way of
finesse, but this is a promising start. 15-16+/20
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Chateau La Tour Figeac 2007: This sample has a nose of blackberries and vanilla
cream, and perhaps unsurprisingly it also has a rather soft, flattering, creamy
entry. The midpalate is soft and rounded, with lots of hard structure
underneath. Good spicy grip. A hard style, with lots of extract, it at least has
character on its side. It may soften up with élevage. 14-15+/20
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Chateau Troplong-Mondot 2007: A vibrant freshness of fruit on the nose at
first, revealing nuances of aromatic cherry and also a little liquorice. The
palate has a pure and rather rich style, with a lot of spicy and peppery fruit,
with a rather an exotic edge to it all. There is a very firm structure apparent,
in what is a firm and classically fashioned wine. Nice acidity too. This is
potentially very good indeed. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Beauregard 2007: This has a fine and pure, slightly exotic
presence of fruit on the nose, with spiced plums and other fruits; overall it
has a seductive character that is very typical for the appellation. On the
palate it is light-footed, showing an elegant poise at the start, and more flesh
through the midpalate. Nicely aromatic fruit, freshness, and underneath quite
some grip. This has a good style. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Bourgneuf-Vayron 2007: A nice depth of fruit on the nose here,
which suggests concentration. Gentle black fruit and plum nuances. On the
palate it seems rich and creamy, well textured, flattering but with an underpinning
structure. Rather sweet fruit and some prominent charcoaly oak. Balanced, this
has some appeal. 15-16+/20
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Chateau La Cabanne 2007: A very unusual nose here, aromatic, but tinged with
diffuse aromas of iodine, perhaps seaweed. It seems a little dirty in character.
Very lean on the palate, sappy with meaty-gamey fruit and a nice acidity. Not a
lot of flesh and certainly some concern here from the aromatics. It may have
been the individual bottle rather than the wine. On that basis, no score here.
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Chateau Certan 2007: A dark and creamy character here, with concentrated,
rich and sweet fruit in a very ripe style apparent on the nose. Soft and plummy,
very flattering, rounded and gentle, with exotic nuances to the fruit. Through
the midpalate there is a gentle wave of ripe tannins balanced by correct
acidity. Flashy, modern and appealing, with gentle fruit on the finish, but with more
grip here too. This could be very good. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Certan Marzelle 2007: This has a very bright and lifted raspberry and
blackberry fruit nose, which is a little unusual in this context, married with
some buttery oak. On the palate there is a lot of cream and substance, with
sweet fruit, underpinned by a layer of hard tannins. Firm stucture, firm
acidity, although what I sense is ripe. But it doesn't possess the flesh I
expected. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Clinet 2007: Bright and
aromatic cherry fruit on the nose here. This is fresh, stylish and elegant,
although is perhaps a touch firm. There is no excess fat here, this wine has a
leaner midpalate and a rather upright, reserved, austere character. But there is
elegance as suggested on the nose, and a gentle flesh apparent on the second
taste. And once again, underneath, a lot of grip. A note of caution here, but
hopefully good, perhaps even better than that. 15.5-16.5+?/20
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Chateau La Conseillante 2007:
This wine has a really punchy nose, bursting with the aromas of deep and plush
fruit, framed by appealingly spicy oak. Rich, creamy and textured on the palate,
but not flashy; although a very seductive style, there is also an elegant style
here. This is quite impressive to my palate. A potentially delicious wine.
16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau La Croix de Gay 2007: Rich dark plums here, fairly intensely
concentrated, spiced with fresh blackberry nuances. An appealing style, lighter
and more elegant than I expected, soft and supple in its composition. Underneath
a firm, peppery acid core and very nicely coated tannins. Quite classically
poised on the palate. Very good potential. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau La Fleur-Pétrus 2007: Sweet fruit on the nose, touched with gamey
richness and oak. Well defined and very nicely composed substance on the palate,
a raft of sweet plummy fruit with a firm and attractive character. Towards the
finish it shows an attractive, flattering body. Nicely balanced, this wine has
plenty of appeal. Very good potential indeed. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Gazin 2007: This is a very dark
wine, with a nose rich in the aromas of nutty oak, and some brooding, somewhat
exotic fruit. A lovely vigour on entry, and a well defined and precise palate.
this is fresh and elegant, and balanced, although there is a firm grip
underneath. Overall, though, a good wine which I hope translates through into
the finished product. 16-17+/20
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Chateau La Grave à Pomerol 2007: An expressive nose here, ripe and creamy fruit, with
more impact than some wines. Attractively styled, nicely composed, this has a
gentle, round, complete nature. Prominent tannic structure, firm, good acidity,
but finishing straight and sappy. Overall rather appealing. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Hosanna 2007: This sample doesn't seem so expressive on the nose as some. It
has some sweet and rather gritty fruit, although on the palate it shows a more
creamy, flashy, rounded quality than I was perhaps expecting. A lovely overlay
of fruit, soft and plummy, with a gentle structure of pillowy tannins and
moderate acidity. It has perhaps less vigour than some others, and a gently
fading finish, but overall it is good. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Lafleur-Gazin 2007: Rather a plummy nose here, quite well spiced,
with an attractive and creamy character. Appealingly supple palate, rather
more integrated than the Plince which was tasted immediately before. Gentle and
understated, though with a firm acid backbone, and a peppery spice. Good fruit
and a ripe grip at the end. This has appealing style. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Latour à Pomerol 2007: Dark sweet fruit on the nose here, a slightly
meaty style, this is impressive. On the palate it possesses a lovely depth, a
fine weight, and some beautifully coated tannins. There is a lot of substance
here, but also an approachable and balanced composition, with fine acidity. A
gentle finish, but overall this is a very attractive wine, and a real step up
within the Moueix firmament in this vintage. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Nenin 2007: An attractive, moderately dense nose of sweet blackberry fruit.
there is some depth here. It has a sweet and creamy character on entry, and an
appealing midpalate structure, with a lot of grip at the finish. There are
enticing scents of tar, roses and fruit. An attractive sample with
potential. 15-16+/20
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Fugue de Nenin 2007: The second wine of Nenin. Firm and sweet blackberry
fruit on the nose here. A nice entry, showing some substance, with a pleasant
midpalate weight. Evident structure here, and rather buttery oak showing
through. It shows its bones towards the finish, and has a rustic grip. 13-14/20
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Chateau Petit Village 2007:
Made using pigeage for the first time, under the guidance of Stéphane
Derenoncourt. A gentle, bright, aromatic style showing some sweet, exotic,
scented berry fruit with a little cola tinge at the edge. A delicious weight on
entry, sweet, defined and aromatic, showing a fresh and sappy composition but
with a lot of structure underneath. Lots of extract in the midpalate and finish.
This is appealing but it is rather tight at present. Firm and a little short.
But overall, good. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Petrus 2007: A rich, sweet, dark and creamy nose. Real depth here,
some purity to it, and a bright fruit character. Rich, plenty of substance, but
balanced, firm, grippy and fresh. Deliciously direct style, broad and
expressive, with a good style. Pure but deep and characterful with good vigour,
this has excellent potential. 17-18+/20
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Chateau Le Pin 2007: Even Le Pin could not escape the effects of the vintage; August
here was as wet as everywhere else. There was a saignée of about 10% of the
must. Despite this volumes were higher than expected, with the wine filling
about 36 barrels rather than the anticipated 27. The wine itself has rich and
deep fruit on the nose, presented in a svelte, pure, dark fashion, along with a
layer of that creamy oak. The palate has a similarly pure character, with a
silky composition and an elegant style. Pure fruit, with rising tannins in the
midpalate, this wine is structured but deeply characterful. The tannins are
exquisitely integrated though, and there is a great harmony throughout.
Excellent potential here. 17-18+/20
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Chateau Plince 2007: A very deeply fruited nose, dark in style, with a little
cola quality, and a little perfume too. One the palate it is quite together,
appealing, somewhat unpretentious and supple. Through the midpalate the tannins
reveal a hard edge, and there is a stony character to the fruit. Nice tannic
grip though. Firm, and more tannins at the finish. Fairly good. 14-15+/20
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Chateau La Pointe 2007: This has a slightly jammy quality to the fruit
aromas, which are rich and sweet. The palate seems very modern in style, rich
and soft, creamy and flattering, with less prominent acidity at first. There are
some finely presented acids apparent in the midpalate though, as well as a
welling up of firm, extracted tannins. Simply piles of grip here. The extraction
is on the edge for me. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau Providence 2007: Sweet creamy vanilla, sweet new oak, black pepper and spice
on the nose. The palate is rather flashy in its styling but it has plenty of
charisma too. The wine is supple and balanced, despite its rich, creamy, soft
and flattering nature. The tannins are ripe and sit nicely with the substance of
the wine. Overall, really very good potential here. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Trotanoy 2007: Very direct, well defined, fresh and lifted
plums and black fruits here. This is delightful. An attractive substance follows
on the palate, with good flesh supported by appropriate acidity and ripe
tannins. Approachable, stylish, with good grip and substance. This sample has
vigour and definition, and I like it very much. Really very good potential here.
16.5-17.5+/20
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