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Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Éclipse No. 12 2015

After the publication of my guide to the wines of Bourgueil last week I will naturally next be turning my attention to this appellation’s smaller neighbour and enclave, St Nicolas de Bourgueil. And what should I come across in a dark and dingy corner of the cellar this past weekend but a bottle from one of the leading domaines in this very appellation. Surely the Wine Gods were guiding my hand?

I am guilty of paying the twin appellations of Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil less attention than I should, and I have the feeling there are yet vignerons, domaines and cuvées of note here that I have yet to discover. Having said that, one domaine I know very well here is that of the Mabileau family, which carries the name of the late Frédéric Mabileau.

Like one or two others in the appellation (and further afield) Frédéric Mabileau was born into a family of viticulteurs, but rather than work alongside his father Jean-Paul inter-generational friction prompted him to establish his own domaine. He planted his first vines in 1988, subsequently expanding and developing the domaine with the help of his wife, Nathalie. Significant developments included the introduction of a sorting table (not as common in this region as you might think) and a shift away from the use of synthetic products in the vineyard. Eventually he bit the bullet, and in 2007 converted the domaine to certified organic methods, follows some years later by biodynamic certification, all while continuing to turn out a handsome range of wines.

Sadly Frédéric’s life was cut short when his ultra-lite aircraft crashed in 2020. Responsibility for the domaine was suddenly thrust into laps of his family, Nathalie and their two sons, Rémy and Charly, and today Rémy assumes the role of winemaker.

Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil Éclipse No. 12 2015

This wine hails from before that sad moment though, it being the 12th edition of Frédéric’s Éclipse cuvée. This was one of the earliest cuvées Frédéric added to his portfolio of vines, built around kid-glove treatment of freshly picked Cabernet Franc. After arrival at the cellars the bunches are destemmed and the berries channelled into 600-litre demi-muids for what is essentially vinification intégrale, the fruit going through alcoholic fermentation, maceration, malolactic fermentation and the subsequent élevage all in the one barrel. It is not produced every year, with 2003, 2007 and the trio of lesser vintages from 2011 to 2013 being notable omissions. The numbering only began in 2008, by the way, starting with number 8, and at the time of writing the most recent release is number 13, the 2017 vintage (I think 2018 is waiting in the wings though).

In the glass the 2015 St Nicolas de Bourgueil Éclipse No. 12 from Frédéric Mabileau shows a rather matt hue, with to my surprise a rather modest concentration, a garnet core and a broad, fading raspberry-pink rim. The nose is initially quite obdurate, but with time – and plenty of it too – the wine eventually relaxes, opening up over several hours to develop notes of incense, black bean, pot pourri, pencil shavings, violets and chalk. The palate possesses a rather polished style, just what you would expect from the vinification but also from the aromatics, with a lightly chalky minerality wrapped around perfumed floral fruit. It still feels very firmly gripped though, the elegant style resting on a robust backbone of tannin, this solidly built frame persisting through the finish. For my palate, this one needs more time, a few more years at least. Those unable to resist temptation should check they have a decanter, and time on their hands, before pulling the cork. The alcohol on the label is 13%. 92/100 (8/7/24)

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