Domaine de Villargeau, 2024 Update
Earlier this year I helped out on a panel discussion at Wine Paris, the topic of debate the ageworthiness of Central Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (in case you didn’t already know, it ages much better than many realise – like all wines, you just need the right domaine, and the right vintage). Participants included Hélène Mardon of Domaine Mardon in Quincy, whose Très Vieilles Vignes cuvée has a strong reputation, and Arnaud Bourgeois, who of course turns out a serious portfolio of wines at Henri Bourgeois. Both are clearly good sources of ageworthy wines.
Seated alongside them was Marc Thibault, of Domaine de Villargeau, one of the leading names in Coteaux du Giennois. This is not the first appellation I would go to in the search for Sauvignon Blanc to be tucked away in the cellar and forgotten, but the Villargeau wine showed extremely well, so perhaps I should reappraise this view. It also reminded me that I should update myself on Marc’s wines, and so at another moment I stopped off to taste with Marc. This turned out to be a good decision, as the range of wines here seems to be growing almost exponentially, with some high-quality micro-cuvées appearing not just in white, but also in red.
Marc and I tasted half a dozen of the domaine’s whites, mostly recent releases in the 2022 vintage, as well as a couple of interesting reds.
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