Domaine Philippe Gilbert, 2017 Update
It seems to me that Pinot Noir holds, for many drinkers at least, some sort of Holy Grail status. The great wines of Burgundy are regarded with awe by those fortunate enough to have tasted the wines of Jayer, Leroy (not Richard, the other one) and Rousseau. The variety has travelled far, to Sonoma, Central Otago and numerous other wine regions, planted by those eager to emulate or at least honour the wines of these great names of Burgundy.
Nobody would argue that the red wines of the Centre-Val de Loire region – where we find Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Reuilly and the like – are set to challenge those from Côte d’Or at the very highest levels. Not just yet, anyway. Having said that, neither should this region or these appellations be ignored by those genuinely interested in exploring this variety in all its forms. I see, from time to time, fleeting glimpses of Pinot Noir brilliance in some of the wines I have tasted from this region. My latest meeting with Philippe Gilbert (pictured above) was instructive in this regard; his whites, all Sauvignon Blanc of course, are frequently excellent, but two new additions to his small portfolio of reds also held significant promise.
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