Bordeaux 2023 Primeurs: St Emilion
“What on earth are you doing?” enquired you-know-who.
I looked up at the primeurs spirit, manifested in the form of Taylor Swift, sent to accompany me on my journey from château to château as I tasted my way through the 2023 barrel samples.
“I’m combining all my St Emilion files into one. Normally I report on St Emilion in three stages, broken up according to the classification. Not because I have any skin in the classification game, or any great belief in its meaning, just because it was a sensible way to carve up the work into bite-sized chunks. But the way I work has changed, meaning this isn’t as helpful as it used to be. And I need to publish quicker than ever this year, so combining these reports into one is a first step towards achieving that.”
“And of course, the classification is meaningless anyway. Especially after all the big names have left,” replied Taylor.
Sometimes the curtains part, just a fraction, and you can catch a glimpse of the knowledge behind. She knows a lot more than she lets on.
“Well, I didn’t say that,” I countered, “and not all the big names have left. But it’s an astute observation and a valid point. No doubt a promotion – especially to the premier grand cru classé level – still brings financial benefits to the lucky proprietor, but other than a price rise – and who wishes for that? – it means little if anything to drinkers. I’m not really sure it ever has. Now it’s my turn though – what on earth are you doing?”
“Well, you’re starting work on your St Emilion report early, and likewise I’m starting work early on my report on you to Ronan Laborde and the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux. It’s an assessment of your status as a tier-two journalist, and whether you should be promoted to tier one. Or demoted from the system completely. I suppose, thinking about it, it’s a bit like the St Emilion classification. Except I get to make the decision, and you can’t opt out of it just because you decide it doesn’t suit you any more. Basically, I decide how useful you might be – or might not be – and you suck it up. Get it?”
