Bordeaux 2014 Primeurs: Castillon & Co. Tasting Notes
In this disrupted chain of vineyards, often the source of some fine Bordeaux bargains, the reliance on Merlot is an obvious black mark in the 2014 vintage. Nevertheless, while knowledge of the growing season is invaluable in knowing what to expect, the only way to assess the wine is to taste. I thought I might find lots of fresh red fruit, leaner textures and grainy tannins here. I have to admit, however, that things weren’t so challenging to taste as I imagined. A number of the wines were quite dark and convincing, not the leaner and more steely, medicinal tonics I had anticipated.
Why might this be? One reason might be that, as a consequence of some of these regions being based on lesser, somewhat colder terroirs, being slightly behind the picking than the grander appellations might perhaps be an advantage this year. On the cold limestones of Castillon, for example, picking may lag behind St Emilion by a week or more. Fruit that needed another week or two in the autumn sunshine to hit physiological ripeness (for the sugar levels to come up to the right level) would also benefit in terms of phenolic ripeness (ripening the skins, giving more colour as well as riper tannins and flavours). I am just postulating of course. Another reason might be the amount of work required to get something interesting from these vineyards. If your expectation at the start of the year is to aim for 20 hl/ha anyway, this will be an advantage when the vine tries to ripen its crop.
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