Domaine du Mortier: Tasting & Drinking
My introduction to Domaine du Mortier was the cuvée Les Graviers, a classically styled wine typical of the gravelly side of the of St Nicolas de Bourgueil and Bourgueil appellations. It took me too long to get around to investigating the domaine and its wines more deeply, but when I did it was immediately apparent that this was not the only cuvée of interest here. The cuvée Dionysos, from old vines positioned directly around the domaine, is another great example of what these two appellations can give us, this time from the more prestigious clay and limestone soils.
Another strong feature of this domaine which will be of interest to many is its consistent adherence to organic viticulture, the Boisard brothers having been converts to this methodology very early on during their time here. More than twenty years ago, when they were starting out, only a handful of domaines in these appellations followed this philosophy. Today, a significant percentage of vignerons in both St Nicolas de Bourgueil and Bourgueil are working organically, and it would be churlish to suggest that the young brothers, working in this manner and undoubtedly succeeding, had no influence in building this movement.
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