Vins Cognard: Tasting & Drinking
My earliest experiences with the wines of this domaine involved several bottles of Les Malgagnes, which were frankly delicious. The 2005 Les Malgagnes in particular was one of the most fabulous expressions of Cabernet Franc I have ever encountered. It confirmed for me, with barely a smell and a sip, the fantastic quality that this vintage offered in the Loire Valley. The 2002 vintage, acquired around the same time, from the same source, was also pretty decent.
Today this remains a well-run domaine, producing an interesting portfolio of wines. There is now a new generation embodied by Estelle at the helm, and she is clearly committed to their vineyard and wines.
Despite the evident successes seen in 2002 and 2005 the style at Vins Cognard tends towards the old-school, which means modest textures, delicate frames, ethereal layers of fruit and a tannic structure which sometimes feels just a little too confident for the delicate substance of the wine. This is especially evident in the entry-level cuvées, which occasionally feel like juicy concoctions of light texture and firm tannin, without much in the way of substance ot fruit. Look to more serious cuvées, such as Les Malgagnes and Cuvée Caudalies, however, and it is clear that this domaine still has the capability to impress. (21/8/08, updated 22/6/18, 13/2/26)
