Domaine Philippe Gilbert, 2023 Update

And so now to Menetou-Salon, and the wines of the charming and talented Philippe Gilbert.

Without referring to my old notes I can’t recall exactly when I first tasted with Philippe, but I would hazard a guess that it was between ten and fifteen years ago. Probably closer to the latter than the former, given that I remember visiting him during the harvest back in 2013, and I was already well acquainted with both the man and his wines at that point.

Over the years the quality of the portfolio has increased in diversity but also – speaking broadly, and overlooking one or two less successful ‘experiments’ – in quality. Suitably convinced, I have stopped off to taste with Philippe almost every year since (I even managed a quick rendez-vous once the Covid-19 cross-channel travel restrictions were lifted). Each time I diligently work my way through the entire portfolio, red, rosé, white and sparkling, and always subject myself to the skin-contact, long maceration and amphora-vinified cuvées as well as all the more traditional offerings.

Philippe Gilbert

So that makes fifteen years (probably more) of dedicated tasting, and back in February I planted myself in front of Philippe, glass in one hand, notebook in the other, ready for year number sixteen.

He looked at me quizzically, and pointed at me, his mouth opening and closing silently. Behind his eyes, I was sure I could see the cogs and wheels spinning.

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