La Tour Saint-Martin, The 2018 Vintage
It was just a few weeks ago that I published my report on some recent releases from Bertrand Minchin of La Tour Saint-Martin, with a focus largely on 2017, with one or two cuvées from prior vintages. Here I present some tasting notes on Bertrand’s most recent releases, from the 2018 vintage, featuring five of his cuvées which are already in bottle and ready to go.
These are five delicious wines which illustrate what seems to me to be the increasingly apparent superiority of the 2018 vintage. We can consider this encounter another data point in understanding more fully this vintage, along with other recently published tasting reports, including my tastings of the 2018 vintage at Bernard Baudry, the wines of the 2018 vintage from Domaine de Roches Neuves, and encounters with other entry-level wines already in bottle such as the 2018 Chinon Logis de Bouchardière from Serge and Bruno Sourdais.
Not only were these wines impressive, I was also reassured by Bertrand’s use of DIAM closures in four of the five wines, removing any concern regarding cork taint. I know some in the wine world think the screwcap closure is the path to follow with early drinking wines, but I feel just as confident about DIAM and it saves a vigneron have to completely change his approach to bottling.
The Wines
Of the three white wines, I thought the 2018 Valençay Blanc Le Claux Delorme to demonstrate the greatest confidence. I am not always convinced by the wines of Valençay (far from it) but this showed ripeness, texture and substance, and it called to mind the style of Quincy, richer and less mineral than other Central Vineyard appellations. The 2018 Menetou-Salon Morogues Blanc put in a similar performance, with a similarly rich style. Both wines demonstrate incredible fruit ripeness and perfume, showcasing the fragrant and aromatic side of Sauvignon Blanc, a feature of the 2018 vintage which is nothing if not ripe. Also features of the vintage, the acidities here feel soft and the texture in the mouth is full and plump. These are wines for enjoying now, on release. Perhaps a little more reticent, more acid-fresh, and a little more classic in its style, the 2018 Touraine Blanc Hortense Sauvignon would perhaps perform better in the cellar over a year or two, although again it is delightful now.
