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Domaine de Villargeau

Domaine de Villargeau is a very young domaine, although as we will see the vineyards themselves are not so young. Located in the Coteaux du Giennois appellation just a few miles to the north of Sancerre, the domaine came into being in 1991 thanks to two brothers Jean-Fernand and François Thibault. Their vineyards were originally classified only as vin délimité de qualité supérieure, a rapidly vanishing halfway-house between the vin de pays and appellation contrôlée levels. Indeed, by 1998 the region was upgraded to the latter level for its white (Sauvignon Blanc), red and rosé (both Pinot Noir) wines. Two years later the Thibault brothers were joined by Jean-Fernand's son Marc, and the trio continue at the helm today.

The vineyards are located near Cosne-sur-Loire and cover 20 hectares of the appellation (of which there are only 180 hectares - so Villargeau is a major player here), although only about three quarters of this area are in full production. The soils are largely flinty, and the majority of the vines are Sauvignon Blanc, with just 4 hectares of Pinot Noir and 1 hectare of Gamay for the Thibault's red and rosé wines. The work on the vineyard is along the lines of lutte raisonnée, which approaches organic viticulture but allows for the limited and reasoned application of chemical treatments when and where deemed appropriate. The yields are controlled through bunch thinning, and the vines encouraged to dig deep for their nutrients by the planting of grass between the rows. The ripe fruit is harvested by machine, and after a period of cold settling the Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in thermoregulated stainless steel vats, with the temperature controlled to 17-18ºC. The wine remains here with some bâtonnage until December. As for the red wine, the Pinot Noir grapes are sorted and destemmed in the winery, cold macerated followed by fermentation in steel and then aged in vat prior to bottling for most of the wine, although the cuvée Les Licotes may see some ageing in used oak barrels.

Having tasted a selection of wines poured by François Thibault it is clear to me that the reason for coming here is white. These are excellent alternatives to Pouilly-Fumé, minerally in style but full of flavour, and importantly good value too. The red wines are less appealing, although they are certainly of interest; the Cuvée Chicago, which as Thibault explained was named for the rotting cases found in the vineyard which originated in that city and which, they believe, were once used to transport American rootstocks to France following the devastation of phylloxera, had a slight edge over the standard red bottling. But the whites were clearly superior. (25/9/08)

Contact details:
Address: 58200 Pougny
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 86 28 23 24
Fax: +33 (0) 3 86 28 47 00

Domaine de Villargeau - Tasting Notes

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Domaine Villargeau Blanc (Coteaux du Giennois) 2007: 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A lovely, grassy style, quite bright and aromatic. Fresh, with a nice weight and composition, with lots of green bell pepper character, but with a good flesh to it as well. Appealing, with moderate acidity. This is a more flashy, softer vintage than the more structured 2006. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 16/20

Domaine Villargeau Rosé (Coteaux du Giennois) 2007: Made solely from Pinot Noir, this wine shows some soft red fruits on the nose. The palate has a gentle style, leafy, not much concentration of flavour, but nevertheless it has balance and an appealingly delicate style. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 13.5/20

Domaine Villargeau Blanc (Coteaux du Giennois) 2006: This is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and it certainly has a very classic Sauvignon nose, with lots of bright freshness and fruit showing through. A lively structure is evident on the palate, which has firm acidity and nice, creamy, yellow-fruit flavours with a peppery edge. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 16+/20

Domaine Villargeau Rouge (Coteaux du Giennois) 2006: This is 100% Pinot Noir. It has a slightly foxy nose, with some suggestion of burnt fruit, and perhaps a note of reduction? Cherries on the nose. A soft, rounded, slightly oily palate, with a surprisingly creamy texture. Some good elements here, but it lacks concentration and flavour. Very short finish. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 13/20

Domaine Villargeau Cuvée Chicago Rouge (Coteaux du Giennois) 2006: Apparently named for the boxes stamped 'Chicago' which were discovered rotting in the vineyard; these containers had allegedly been used for shipping American rootstocks after phylloxera. Rather gamey on the nose, stony with simple fruit. A rounded palate, soft, although with a little more definition than the straight cuvée. A touch more grip at the finish. Decent. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 13.5/20