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Pierre Jacques Druet
Pierre Jacques Druet is rightly regarded as one of Bourgueil's most talented vignerons, and many, I'm sure, would rank him at the very top in this Loire appellation. He came to Bourgueil via a rather circuitous route, first graduating from the Lycée de Beaune before further studies at Montpellier and Bordeaux. Druet started out selling viticultural equipment including presses, but also occupied himself managing an export company in Bordeaux and making wine in Switzerland of all places, before settling in Bourgueil in 1980, at the age of 32, where he has subsequently made his name.
Druet deals only in Cabernet Franc, producing a range of high quality red
wines in Bourgueil and Chinon, as well as a Bourgueil rosé. Yields are maintained at a
suitably low level, as low as will be found in any other Loire vineyard.
The fruit is harvested by machine, an increasingly common occurrence in many
Loire vineyards, an unfortunate phenomenon which has the very real potential for
damaging fruit and also, therefore, the resulting wines. Fermentation is
temperature-controlled with pigeage. Some wines see
oak, and the resulting red wines are bottled without filtration, the rosé after
a light treatment. The corks that are popped in over the wine are of high
quality and carefully selected; Druet has a reputation for experimentation and
innovation, be it the oak, the dimensions of
the cork or even the fill level that comes under his examination. In many cases
such an attitude naturally yields better and better wines, but some innovations
- machine harvesting, for instance - do nothing to improve quality.
There are four cuvées of Bourgueil here, all produced from Druet's 13 ha of vines around the town; the lightest and simplest is Les Cent Boiselées, although in my experience 'light' and 'simple' are not adjectives I would routinely use to describe this wine. One step up is Beauvais, a more serious wine that will see some oak, but the cuvées that lead the portfolio are Grand Mont and Vaumoreau. Both are old-vine cuvées, the latter made from vines ranging up to 100 years of age; both can be excellent, although it is the Vaumoreau that is most likely to stun and surprise. There is also a plot of vines in Chinon, the Clos de Danzay, that Druet tends. Over the years Druet has built a reputation for turning out some superb wines, offering as much as any other domaine in Chinon and Bourgueil. I certainly recommend them, especially if you can turn up some well stored mature bottles as may happen from time to time. (31/1/06, updated 21/6/06)
Contact details:
Address: Le Pied Fourrier, 37140 Benais
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 97 37 34
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 97 46 40
Pierre Jacques Druet - Tasting Notes
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Pierre Jacques Druet Bourgueil Les Cent Boiselées 2003: This is Druet's
entry-level Bourgueil, yet it holds a lovely, dark and juicy colour. No lack of
expression on the nose, which is vibrant and alive, full of red berry fruits,
smoky blackberries, with wisps of strawberry liquorice. Full, and quite precise
on the palate, sappy and firm, with a little texture overlying a smoky tannic
structure. There is a wonderfully bright backbone of acidity, and fine grip to
the finish. Delightfully fresh and easy drinking, this is very good for such a
'basic' cuvée; drink now or over the next 2-4 years. 17+/20 (January 2006)
Label
Pierre Jacques Druet Bourgueil Vaumoreau 2000: A maturing, red-orange
hue here, but not a huge intensity of colour. A warm, ripe and appealing nose,
with macerated fruits, iron, capers and green peppercorns. A decent presence on
entry, well structured but somewhat lean, showing rather angular tannins and
firm acidity through the midpalate, lending a rather coarse feel to the wine.
Medium body, with an underwhelming texture; overall it doesn't compare too
favourably with the other Druet wines tasted recently. Good though, with
potential; I suspect this would improve over the next 3-5 years. 16+/20 (January
2006)
Label
Pierre Jacques Druet Bourgueil Grand Mont 1997: A pleasing,
brick-maturing hue here, but still quite rich. A lovely nose, initially showing
some blackberry, but then a more serious profile of peppered bloody beef, and
minerally iron, with an organic, meaty quality. Midweight palate, but very
finely balanced, and with a lovely minerally presence. Spicy, meaty flavours
with a touch of tobacco. Delicious finish and super length. Lovely. Drink now.
18.5/20 (January 2006)
Label
Pierre Jacques Druet Chinon Clos de Danzay 1995: This has a dark and
maturing hue, and the nose shows lovely mature development to match. It is
dominated by a meaty-smoky sense, with plenty of mature, sweet, macerated fruit,
with notes of blood, iron, green peppercorns and mint. Medium weight on the
palate, dry, with a full, sensuous texture. Refined, mature, blackcurrant and
raspberry fruits with minty overtones, culminating in a gamey finish. This has a
lovely style and nice length. Very good indeed. 18/20 (January 2006)
Label
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