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Wine Thoughts 2005

Thoughts from 2005....

Festive Break

I'll be taking a few days break in the next two weeks, but will be back with new additions next Wednesday. As I'm a recent immigrant to Scotland I also feel to help my assimilation I should obey the Scottish bank holidays, so will be having Monday and Tuesday off the following week as well. Next week, to round off the year, I'll be adding notes from my 1995 Ten Year On tasting, as well as my Wines of the Year.

The past twelve months have been a great success for The Winedoctor, with many messages of support from readers; reader numbers are higher than ever, and are climbing at a frightening pace at present. Which is great! The Circle of Wine Writers finally woke up to the presence of the internet and admitted me as a member, and more and more merchants and similar businesses are keen to come on board with sponsorship. Everything's going swimmingly. And there's plenty to look forward to in 2006:

And there's more, some of which must stay under wraps at present. I intend to have a happy Christmas with family, and I hope my readers can enjoy similar contentment over the next few days. Best wishes to all, and thanks for reading! (23/12/05)

Just in time...

RiedelJust in time, I've just received two Christmas deliveries. First to arrive was an assortment of new wine glasses, including new Champagne flutes (I was down to three decent ones plus my Hungarian crystal back-ups, which are in fact also pretty good), new 'everyday' glasses for me in the form of Riedel's Chianti Classico/Riesling Vinums, as well as new everyday glasses for family and in-laws in the shape of Riedel's red wine glass from the Wine range; I was quite pleased with the latter, which are good value at just a few quid each. Throw in some new Vinum Bordeaux glasses to keep up stocks, and the 'O' series decanter (which is great fun - I've been using it a lot this past week) and it seems I have a serious Christmas self-indulgence on my hands. I suppose I should get around to sending the cheque as payment some time soon?

The second delivery, which arrived just yesterday, included wine purchased at rock-bottom prices from a certain UK university's end-of-year bin-end sale, as mentioned further down the page. What a bunch of bargains; although I didn't get the 1990 Frédéric Emile, I did pick up the 1990 Bonnezeaux and the 1970 Graham's, as well as some 1995 Clape Cornas, 1980 Baumard Quarts de Chaumes (what the hell was the 1980 vintage like in the Loire?), 1983 Josmeyer Riesling and numerous other ancient and venerable bottles. From a local merchant I also treated myself to some Dom Ruinart Blanc des Blancs 1990 and some Sassicaia. The latter is for the cellar, but the other purchases suggest that this will be a fine Christmas for drinking. I guess I shouldn't finalise my 'wines of the year' just yet! (21/12/05)

Recommendation, Rant or Relaxation?

So it's Friday. What update should I add to the site today?

My first thought was a wine recommendation. Wine recommendations used to be a regular feature of The Winedoctor, and from the feedback I received at the time they were frequently well received. So much so that I used to add a new recommendation - often concentrating on the 'value' end of the market - once a week. On a Friday, as it happens. But after some time I became disillusioned by this practise. Despite weekly recommendations forming the backbone of many UK newspaper wine columns, and some wine websites, the wines recommended are, on the whole, absolutely crap. Too many £5 co-operative/branded rubbish with fancy labels and a decent marketing budget for me to be interested. Too many writers dependent on free samples.

So I stopped my regular recommendations, and stayed reco-free for probably a year. After a suitable period of rehabilitation, I reintroduced a 'wine of the month' type feature earlier this year, with the focus on wines I had purchased, wines of quality, at sensible prices. My last such recommendation was October, so I'm overdue. The problem is, I haven't tasted anything worth recommending that I have purchased recently, so I won't be making any such suggestions to you. Quality, belief and integrity comes before the need for a weekly/monthly update. So that's the end of that.

So how about a rant? Well, I've been thinking a lot about label drinkers at the moment, especially since I reviewed Giles Kime's Secrets of Wine, in which he argues convincingly and persistently for belief in your own palate. As I write this, I'm sipping a Western Australian Shiraz Grenache blend; not the sort of wine I would buy, and this is in fact a sample. I'm not wowed enough to make it a recommended wine, but it really does give a lot of pleasure. Warm, ripe, spicy, textured, with appropriate weight and presence. The label is unrecognisable - fans of Australian wine would perhaps recognise the wine, but I am a Franco-/Europhile (now self-confessed, forgiveness welcomed), and it was a new label to me. Nevertheless, I trust my own palate, and have judged the wine on its intrinsic quality; and it is very good indeed. It's not Ornellaia, or Cheval Blanc (both of which I have tasted extensively recently and, label or not, they were fantastic) but it is fine for drinking; it offers real pleasure, despite the absence of any illustrious chateau name on the label. This is what real wine appreciation is about; not points, or critics, or labels...it's about wine that pleases because it has been judged worthy by that which is, to me, the most useful palate in the world....my own.

But I should write about that in more detail at some other time. What about some relaxation? Possibly although, having sat down with a short wine list I was handed today, I have a nervous sense of anticipation and an elevating blood pressure. A colleague at work gave me a sale list...his old college, part of an illustrious UK university, are having their annual Christmas sale. With Cuvée Frédéric Emile 1990 at £20, Graham's 1970 Vintage Port at £35, and Fesles Bonnezeaux 1990 at £18.90, (as well as great prices on more recent releases, such as St Cosme & Charvin Côtes du Rhône) I won't be able to relax until I have my bids in. These are just great wines, and this is clearly a thoughtfully managed college cellar. There's no point in contacting me for details...this is alumni only, I think. Credit card at the ready! (9/12/05)

The Big Delivery

Wine deliveryI'm off to the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting today, so just a quick update today - an early start is necessary if I am to make it there in time to assess the 2003 vintage, even though kick-off isn't until a very respectable 11am.

Last week saw the moment I had been waiting some considerable time for; with my cellar completed, there seems little point in continuing to accrue further storage bills, and so I arranged for the bulk of what I have in storage to be delivered. I waited feverishly all day, expecting some hard labour when the thirty-or-so cases arrived, eager to help lug them from the delivery vehicle to the cellar (and so hopefully avert any nasty breakages of the most precious wines). How naive of me. The whole lot arrived shrink-wrapped on a single pallet, and it took all of three minutes for the driver to lower this to the ground on his electric tailgate, before swiftly depositing it outside my front-door. I was free to carry each case, with due care and attention, all by myself, a task which I completed with pleasure. The cellar looks even fuller, and I'm left with an empty pallet. Roll on Bonfire Night! (19/10/05)

Cellar Completion

Wine cellarFor those that enquired, and anyone else that might be interested, my cellar project is now fully completed. The finishing touch - the wiring in of a ceiling light - was added a little over two weeks ago. It's a blessing being able to switch the light on and find exactly what I want, instead of dragging my under-vehicle inspection lamp into the pitch-dark room every time!

Temperatures continue to be just fine, typically running at 12-14ºC at present. They were a little warmer in the summer, and no doubt they will be a lot colder in the winter, but this seasonal variation in a ground-level passive cellar is to be expected, and is of no concern. Personal experience of just such a cellar in my previous abode taught me this, and if anything the wines there aged more slowly than I might have expected, with no loss of character or finesse along the way. AnecWine cellardotal evidence from many of the finest chateaux of Bordeaux, where old (and even ancient) vintages are stored in ground-level buildings is also reassuring. Here the thick walls provide adequate insulation against heat, and protect from significant swings in temperature. As, in the case of Chateau Margaux, these 'cellars' include vintages dating back to the 19th Century I think we can safely assume such storage is quite safe.

The next step in the evolution of my new cellar is to fill it up! I've been in receipt of a number of small deliveries over the past few weeks, including some 2003 Chinon, a mixture of auction purchases and some 1997 Graham's Port, but there is still much wine in professional storage. Naturally this is an expense I can now do without, and I hope to take delivery of these wines very soon. My newly expanded cellar will no doubt soon be feeling a little fuller, but I worry not - I have a well known way of reducing the number of bottles! (7/10/05)

And another...

I know I promised some pictures of my completed cellar to those of you that requested an update, now that I have finished its construction, but that will have to wait another week. For more pressing news exists. Please welcome another new sponsor, Wineware; a merchant of wine paraphernalia that has had the good sense to join Chateau Palmer, Albany Vintners and others in securing the ongoing existence of The Winedoctor. Of greatest interest to many wine drinkers will be Wineware's very respectable collection of Riedel glasses and decanters; they are purportedly the largest retailer of Riedel crystal in the UK. And no wonder, as the prices are good...I purchased from them some time ago (so before the current arrangement, with the associated bias, was in place) and gladly received my Riedels, well packed in industrial bubble-wrap, handsomely intact. I'm glad Wineware have jumped on board. (5/10/05)

Please welcome my latest sponsor...

I'm very pleased to announce that Albany Vintners, the very latest addition to the UK's impressive assembly of fine wine merchants, has joined the team of wine-orientated businesses that want to sponsor The Winedoctor. Keen-eyed viewers will have seen the new adverts appear last week. Albany Vintners is the shop-front for Marcus Edwards, who left his position at one of the UK's leading merchants, with more than ten years experience in the fine wine trade under his belt, to set up his own business. Marcus has already made his mark on the UK wine trade with a heady combination of keen prices and a low minimum order for private clients of just £200, a figure which puts some other UK traders to shame. Add to that some great deals on mixed cases of Leoville-las-Cases and ex-cellars Haut Brion and it's clear that this is a merchant who is as much an enthusiast as a trader. I'm glad Albany Vintners have come on board. What's even better is that they head up an attractive shortlist of sponsors that are currently getting into bed with The Winedoctor (so to speak). More news on that in the coming weeks. (21/9/05)

Siena's DuomoI'm back...

I think there might be a few Chianti tasting notes appearing on The Winedoctor in coming weeks. Having spent the last few days in Chianti country, based in Siena (right - Siena's fabulous duomo), I've been tasting and drinking little else.

The vineyards are easily accessible from Siena by either hire car or bicycle, the latter being an excellent way to take in some scenery as well as visiting the Chianti producers. I decided to get an update of three of the greatest estates, Felsina, Fontodi and Fonterutoli. I did experience some new wines as well, and was particularly impressed by Rocca di Montegrossi, obviously an up and coming star of the DOCG. I even enjoyed a rather oaky Prosecco from Frescobaldi, probably the only Prosecco I've tasted in recent memory to which I would willingly return. (5/9/05)

I'm off...

It seems barely minutes since my return from Bandol, but I jet off today for Tuscany. It's simply years since I have been to Italy - I shudder to think how many - so this is a long overdue return. I'll be based in Siena, a beautiful city, and a stone's throw from the heart of Chianti - the Chianti Classico region - and it isn't exactly a long trek to Brunello and Vino Nobile country either. I suspect my mind shall be focussed on the former, as many of the more southerly estates are almost on my doorstep.

As I write I'm getting in the mood with a bottle of Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2003. It's a good midweek wine; inexpensive, but it delivers. I must confess, however, to a sense of boredom when opening the Cafaggio; I really didn't expect anything special, and in fact thought it might be rather tedious. How wrong I was. This wine shows the nature of the 2003 vintage in Europe - super-ripe fruit, low acidity, voluptuous mouthfeel. Not a wine for long term cellaring, but just delicious to drink now. I have bought a few bigger names from the vintage (Beaucastel, Clos des Papes, Léoville Barton - gotta keep those verticals going) but not that many as I'm not sure how any of the 2003s will perform in the cellar. They have the power to either impress and stupefy, or to disappoint. Until we get more reports of how the 2003s are holding up with time, it's impossible to tell.

Anyway, back to Tuscany. I don't buy enough wines from my favourite Chianti estates, and I think sometimes I'm a bit too single minded when it comes to purchasing wine. Too much Bordeaux (can you ever have too much?), not enough Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Chianti, Barolo, Port and so on. I really must balance out my cellar a little more, perhaps starting with something Tuscan; Felsina's Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva 'Rancia' always does the business and maybe I should see if I can track down a few bottles during my trip. Until my return... (31/8/05)

Transformations

As I look out of my study window I see a gradually transforming scene at present. It's harvest time, and the wheatfields across the road from chez Winedoctor have seen a lot of activity over the past few days. Firstly, combine harvesters trundled back and forth, harvesting the wheat, mostly during daylight although one such leviathan was out at night last week, festooned with lights, continuing the day's work. Then the harvesting for hay, with the rapid appearance of hay bundles dotted across the fields, a wonderful sight. These were rapidly collected, but before every last one was taken in the field was already being ploughed and sown once again. Hundreds of birds sauntered across the field, helping themselves to the fresh seed. You could almost hear them chuckling, in a Far Side-esque manner, as they strolled behind the tractor dispensing seed, picking up a free meal.

Wine cellarSomething else that has undergone a transformation is one room of my house; I've finished (save for the installation of some lighting) my wine cellar. Constructed using three stud partition walls, shod with plasterboard, with R2 cavity wall insulation between, the building project took just a few weekends to complete. To the left is the one and only image (the batteries in my camera died) I have of the cellar under construction,  showing the upright studs in position. The short pieces of wood running horizontally between the studs are called noggins, by the way, which is a wonderful word - I'm glad it has a real meaning. The gap on the right-hand side is where the door is to be fitted. I built the cellar up around the wine, as you can see by the piles of boxes and crates within.

It's been completed for about a month now, and I'm please to say temperatures, even with the beautiful weather we have enjoyed recently, have been fantastic. The highest is about 16 degC, with the cellar at times maintaining a temperature 6 degC lower than the adjacent rooms. It feels beautifully cool as you walk in. The new cellar is, I think, a success. Next plan is to revive my camera so I can get a few images of the completed project and arrange for what I have in storage to be delivered. After all, I have stacks of room now. (25/8/05)

I'm back...

Provence was great; some excellent weather, some real relaxation time, plenty of time playing with the kids, lots of swimming in the beautiful, quiet, obviously under-appreciated Lac de Sainte Croix and, of course, some wine. I spent some time in Bandol, visiting a number of producers who graciously poured their wines; there will be appropriate write-ups of these tastings in due course.

Of the numerous Bandol producers I chose just four to visit, including two old favourites which already have profiles on The Winedoctor; Pibarnon and Tempier. Both of these estates produce superlative wines, and I couldn't resist popping in to see the vineyards for themselves. My other two choices were Ray-Jane and Domaines Bunan. The tasting room at the former was amazing - proprietor Raymond Constant has, over the years, amassed an astounding collection of wine artefacts, ranging from Roman amphora to ornately carved wood planes (used by coopers in making barrels - as evidenced by their unusual curved shape). Only a small selection of the collection is on display - there simply isn't enough room for all of it in the cramped tasting room - but it is no less impressive for this.

I'll start my write-ups as soon as I've finished my current German feature. (16/8/05)

I'm off...

I've not added much to wine thoughts recently...perhaps because I have been far too busy with building a cellar. Yes, spurred on by the thought of a £15000 (a conservative estimate) 1600 bottle cellar from spiral cellars, I have instead built one myself in an unused wing of my new Scottish mansion. All this for somewhere in the region of £350; that's about 30 pence per bottle, once I have everything that I currently have in storage delivered. Contrast that with the price of a spiral cellar, where the cost per bottle is more in the region of £10. Spiral cellars are now clearly a lifestyle option for those with sufficiently copious cash, and no longer an option for most wine buyers who channel limited funds into buying the best they can.

So, for my £350, I have a large and well insulated room which, even in the exceptional (for Scotland) warm weather we have experienced in the last few weeks, never exceeded 18 degC. A more typical temperature is 14-16 degC; and that's exactly what the temperature is right now. The capacity is huge; more than would be offered by a spiral cellar. And if things get really tight, I can always expand outwards; there's no chance of that happening underground.

My major concern will be winter, rather than summer, temperatures. Just how cold will it get in this draughty, unheated section of my abode when the snows of winter settle on my roof? Only time will tell, but I should not worry too much...I can always turn on the heating in the room next door.

I do have one or two images of the cellar under construction. I should publish them here. But I'm off on a trip today, to spend some time exploring Bandol and other vineyards of Provence. Should be good fun - which is what its all about, of course. I'll be back in touch upon my return. (3/8/05)

Reflections on the LIWSF

I've had a busy week this week, travelling a lot and having little time to make any significant inroads into my cellar. Of most interest I spent two great days at the London International Wine & Spirit Fair. This is an event which I usually find hard work, and this year was no exception. There are thousands of wines available for tasting, but sorting the wheat from the chaff takes some planning; of those thousands, the minority interest me. I focussed on domaines of top quality, and of wines that would be of interest to Winedoctor readers, avoiding the crashing waves of wine-dross that can be found at such a trade event.

Day one, therefore, saw me focussing on Champagne, followed by some old favourites. Good wines from Perrier-Jouët, as I would hope. Mumm has maintained what improvements have been made, but don't seem to have moved on very much judging by the NV cuvée. But I suppose they haven't fallen backwards. Duval-Leroy were excellent; this large, family-owned house is one I pay little attention, but I was really taken with some of the wines here, most noticeably the Chardonnay-dominated cuvées. This reflects their location, in the Côte des Blancs - they have a lot of high quality Chardonnay on their doorstep. The 100% Pinor Meslier was also well worth trying. Blin were OK, although only a few wines were on show. Jacquesson were consistently good, as were Gosset.

Moving on from the fizz, there was some solid Chablis from Brocard, a quick taste of Musar (the red 1998 and 1999), and a few other wines, before palate and general fatigue (I had been awake since about 4am - the price of living so far from London) set in. I retired to my hotel.

The next day saw me very busy at the German and Austrian stands; Horst Sauer, apparently Decanter's White Winemaker of the Year, had a range of wines on show. There was also an excellent selection of Germans, including plenty from Heyl zu Herrnshiem, von Buhl and Künstler. What struck me most about all these wines was the weaknesses of the Trocken wines. I've enjoyed many such dry German wines, but usually drunk with food and not pitted against more traditional styles. When these wines go head-to-head with the traditional Spätleses and Ausleses, they pale in comparison. I then moved onto a selection of Austrians; Bründlmayer (superb wines), Willi Opitz, Kracher (served by the haughty Noel Young) and Dinstlgut Loiben (I hope I have spelt that correctly). Stunning wines too from Domaine Cauhape, where the 1999 Quintessence du Petit Manseng was clearly wine of the event - literally taking my breath away just on taking in the aroma. I finished off with a collection of Ports from the 2003 vintage, where the Symington family seem to have produced a superb range of Ports, superior I feel to those from the Fladgate Partnership.

Obviously full write-ups and tasting notes to follow. My usual Monday tasting note will resume next week, moving from Provence to the South-West. (23/5/05)

Dining Out, Cellaring In

I had a wonderful night out last week in the company of Toby Bailey of www.finewinediary.com, together with a number of other wine-adoring people. It was a very good night, featuring some good Champagne, aged Rioja, and a very good selection of wines from all over the place. I had to knock back some 1996 Ridge Geyserville and 1993 Jim Barry Armagh at the end - there will be no sensible tasting notes for these two, but they were both very good - in order to catch my bus. The journey home was uneventful, and the driver dropped me off at my front door - now that's what I call a personal service! I'll get some notes up from the tasting next week.

Meanwhile, I've been thinking more about cellars, I can't believe the price of spiral cellars...they seem to have rocketed. Does this reflect the similarly rocketing prices to be found in the housing market, or is it a more recent increase resulting from the recent acquisition of Spiral Cellars UK Ltd by a team of three "entrepreneurs"? I don't know. I did enquire about kit form for self installation, but was informed "we supply and fit only". For those that are interested, the installation of a 1600 bottle cellar, 3m deep, has a projected cost of between £13200 and £14700, excluding VAT. So all in, the largest model could cost as much as £17200. And that doesn't include extras, such as coir matting to the stairs, or a recessed trapdoor; the latter adds a further £300, plus VAT again.

With a price in the region of £17000, this equates to well over £10 per bottle storage costs. That doesn't reflect the true cost, of course; the financing of such a large purchase, be it through a mortgage or loan, would add further thousands. Of course, it's a one-off payment, so with time the cost per bottle would fall, but only very slowly. And it's sold as being an asset, especially when selling the house. I don't think so myself...only if you happen to find a purchaser with a strong interest in wine. Most of the UK population drink hand-to-mouth, and would view the presence of a cellar as a mere curiosity, which may further push the value of the house out of their reach, rather than a unique selling point.

So my dilemma, at present,  remains unchanged. But one thing's for sure, whatever I do about cellaring my wine, I'd better do it quick. I have just taken 600 bottles out of storage, with concern about the conditions there, and they need a good home. More on this next time. (6/5/05)

Three Germans

The imminent arrival of guests with a penchant for Riesling in a medium style - a hangover from the days of Blue Nun and Black Tower, I suppose - means I should stock up. I've a few bottles of Bert Simon's 2001 Herrenberg and Würtzberg Kabinetts, which are lovely, but I wouldn't like to run out. I bid for some Maximin Grünhaüser 2001 Kabinett and Spätlese (as well as many other things) in an auction at the weekend, but don't know if I was successful yet (I expect notification to arrive today). I recently found these three wines on the shelves of UK supermarkets:

Loosen Dr L Riesling 2003: Very pale wine indeed, with barely a tinge of lemon-green. Very sweet, grapey, floral nose. A decent weight on the palate. Showing a simple sweetness, with just a tingle of retained carbon dioxide spritz. Slightly perfumed, lemon-lime and green dessert grape flavours. Very undemanding. I think this is a wine for sipping well chilled on a hot summer's day. 15/20

Bert Simon Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett 2002: Lovely ripe colour, infused with a tinge of green. Obvious fruit on the nose; plump, ripe Galia melon, with honeysuckle and smoke, but with a very forward, mineral, talcum-like note also. Rich, ripe, fresh, balanced, plump and bright, a wine to be enjoyed. Fresh, green, herbal character alongside the mineral fruit. Similar profile to the 2001, but with a more open, suggestive feel. Really nice weight, showing a touch more richness on the finish. This is good. 16+/20

Domdechant Werner Hochheimer Riesling Spätlese 1999: Rich, yellow-gold hue. A nose of honeysuckle and lime honey spread on toast. Beautiful weight on the palate, which is fresh, balanced, with good acidity and a subtle carbon dioxide spritz. Weighty through the midpalate, and an intriguing caramel twist in the finish. Drinking well now, but should improve - although with some development apparent I'm reluctant to give a long drinking window. I think I would watch how it develops over the next five years. Very good. 16.5+/20

The Domdechant Werner came across best, but that caramel note was unusual. I think I'll wait and see what comes up from the auction before I take any action. Now I'm in Edinburgh, naturally I should be looking at what the local independents (something in very short supply in Liverpool) have to offer as well. (26/4/05)

Deliveries

I'm now really settling in and yesterday started my new job in Edinburgh. I can tell that I'm really going to enjoy it, although it may take a little while to really find my feet. Now that I'm settling in at home, though, I thought it was time to consolidate some of my wine holdings. A series of telephone calls last week has seen my new house inundated with deliveries since. First and foremost I withdrew, as many others have done, everything I had stored at Vinotheque, Lay & Wheeler's storage warehouse in the Midlands. They have recently introduced a £35 charge for cellar management services - little more than a glossy stock certificate advising drinking windows in my opinion - which was brought in at very short notice, with notification hidden in a letter sent out merely weeks ago. I think this was a shockingly bad business decision by Lay & Wheeler, and I am aware that they are feeling the effect of the new charge; it was clear when I telephoned I wasn't the first to withdraw numerous cases of wine stored there. And I won't be parting with any £35 storage fee.

So the Lay & Wheeler cases arrived last week; some Beaucastel 2001, Dom Perignon 1996, Giscours and Larrivet Haut-Brion (both 2000), Langoa and Léoville-Barton (both 2001 - an absolute bargain price from Fine & Rare a year or two ago). In addition there's some stock currently held with Seckford's (no problems with this company - I just thought I would save a little on storage costs), as well as samples from a London merchant and from two Spanish bodegas. And also a magnum of Champagne that I won in a competition (honest!) arrived - Veuve-Clicquot 1993, no less. Although VC does come on for some stick (particularly where the sometimes rather green and foamy NV cuvée is concerned) this is not a prize to be sneezed at! In addition two bottles sent over from Bordeaux - samples again - were lucky to make it here at all. They had been left behind the bins at my old address in Liverpool, and it is only because friends and family are regularly checking the property that they were discovered and duly delivered to sunny Edinburgh.

My next task will be to sort out delivery of what I have held with The Wine Society, although this will require a little more planning - there are a good number of cases involved. Which brings me onto my home cellar solution - having looked at the up to date prices of Spiral Cellars, I was shocked to see just how much these have risen in price over the past ten years. More on this next time. (19/4/05)

The Final Move

So last Friday was the final push northwards. The solicitors decided to throw in a few spanners to add in some eleventh hour excitement, deciding that there was a discrepancy between the plans of the house and land registry records. Deciding on the day of exchange, so the first I learn of this new problem is when I'm halfway there, pulling the MGB into some M6 services in order to answer the phone call. Fortunately it was all sorted by the time I arrived, although the previous owners left somewhat disgruntled, having £1000 of the purchase price withheld until the matter was fully sorted. Perhaps I should withhold some of the solicitor's fees in view of this last minute debacle?

Otherwise our new life near Edinburgh has been wonderful. Sure, I spent a half-day dismantling the washing machine in order to rectify a problem caused in transit, I spent a half-day trying to sort out the gas fire and heating, what seemed like forever trying to sort out my internet connection (although it was probably just one hour), and I've spent the last four days watching the previous vendor repair our non-functioning fridge-freezer, with some eventual success. But overall things are great. The important things - the locale, the locals, the school, and so on - are perfect.

My wine cellar is now all located in or near Edinburgh. The last few boxes came up on Friday, and I'm already tucking in. I had some questionable Gosset Champagne on the day of our arrival, some delicious Alphonse Mellot Sancerre, and bottle after bottle of Madiran - I'm currently going through a South-West France phase. In addition, after seeing my friend's spiral cellar I am thinking quite seriously about having one installed. The time is nigh, as they say. I have the necessary cash, and it would make life so much easier in calling in all the bottles and cases I have scattered across the UK. I think I'll telephone them today for a quote. Just as soon as I've been out to buy a new bed for the guest bedroom, and a new exhaust pipe for the tumble dryer. The high points of my day, no doubt! (12/4/05)

Cellar Move Part Two

Another recent trip to Edinburgh was the perfect opportunity to move more of my cellar northwards, before the final move which is this coming weekend. Last time saw me heaving crates of bottles with some difficulty, as each crate was loaded with up to thirty bottles - the equivalent of two and a half cases each! This time, however, much more of what I had to shift was still boxed from purchase, as I have known over the past couple of years that a house move was imminent, and so stored recent purchases this way. Thank heavens - cases of twelve, whether in original wooden case or a cardboard carton, are so much easier on the back! Nor did I transport quite as many bottles with this trip; in fact something of the order of 250 less, but I suppose it was quite important to leave room for my three kids this time! This was their first trip to Edinburgh to look at their new home and, of course, to visit their new school. Vital stuff, essential in managing their transition from a large city school to a smaller village one, full of unfamiliar faces, but it did mean I couldn't take out as many back seats as last time! The joy of owning a Renault Espace is that you can, with a few minutes work, quickly convert it from people carrier to spacious van, complete with black-out blinds to shield the contents from prying eyes. And so another 167 bottles of Bollinger, Baumard and assorted Bordeaux - to name just a few - joined the rest of my cellar in storage. Just 130 bottles remain at home (oh, and that mixed case of Malescot St-Exupéry, Larmande, Alphonse Mellot Sancerre and Fèvre Chablis I bought the other day....and those Spanish samples that arrived....and that magnum of Champagne I won in a prize draw (honest)....and those Bordeaux samples....you get the picture), and the move is now imminent so these will travel up with us on the day, together with all the furniture (I do own furniture as well, you know). As a final aside I spent yesterday swapping purchases with a friend that lives not too far away. You know the sort of thing; you have split a case when buying en primeur and it was the time to exchange six-packs before I move away from the area. While there I took the opportunity to take a look down his spiral cellar; I was very impressed. It was not as cramped as I had imagined, and was quite deep with plenty of easily accessed storage space. The capacity is 1200 bottles (there is a larger model available) although I'm sure you could tuck a few more in behind the stairs. I'm sorely tempted to have one installed...I'll think about this some more when I actually gain entry to my new property. (4/4/05)

Breakdown

So that was Rhône week, was it? Apologies for last week's breakdown in the usual program of regular updates. A major computer failure - probably a conflict between my firewall and some newly installed software - meant I spent several days sorting out my computer. By the time I had at least enough function to continue updating this site, Easter was looming near, so I decided I may as well leave it altogether and continue after the Easter weekend. So I'll be back on track tomorrow, computer allowing! (28/3/05)

Drinking Provence

So I've been drinking a lot of Provençal wine recently. My feature on the appellations of Southern France - a thinly veiled excuse for me to enjoy lots of often high-quality, low-price wine from Languedoc, Roussillon and Provence is taking much longer than I initially anticipated. Partly because, as I have just mentioned, there are so many great wines to try, and so many great producers to get acquainted with. And also because I have extended it to include South-West France, so I see it going on well into the summer of 2005 - much longer than my previous themes of Alsace, Germany, Burgundy and Italy, all of which lasted between six to just over twelve months each.

Of course, there's no point doing this unless I taste some wines new to me. After all, the main reason for doing it is to educate myself, although hopefully readers find the information and tasting notes useful as well! And so last night I opened a bottle of Clos Culombu Cuvée Prestige 2000, one of only two Corsican wines I think I have ever tasted (and the other was only a few weeks ago).

Tasting wines like this can be romantic - images of holidays past (not Corsica, admittedly) come to mind. Open the bottle, and pour. Kick back and relax, with a glass in your hand. Drinking wine is about pleasure, after all. Write a brief tasting note, but then allow yourself to sink into the wine. Imagine how the labours of Etienne Suzzoni, proprietor of Clos Culombu, have brought into being the wine in the glass. It's a family operation, started by his father. He works with local varieties Nielluccio and Sciacarello - just these two in the Prestige - as well as Grenache, Cinsaut and the other grapes of the south, planted on granite vineyards, just a stones throw from the lapping Mediterranean. Vines, gnarled and twisted, spring forth from among the broken rocks. Lizards, to the delight of children, scarper about in the sun, coming to rest in small nooks, wherever there is a little shade to be had. Wine can bring back memories like these. Then raise the wine; the colour is good. Bring it to the nose. Expect the scents of the south; scrubby maquis, as the Corsicans call garrigue. Perhaps a little meaty fruit. Certainly this should be a wine of character, if nothing else.

You put it to your nose, but it is a little dumb at first; it takes time to release its precious, Corsican aromas, preserved behind the cork for the past five years - two of which it has spent resting in your cellar. And then you smell it. Salt? Salt of the Mediterranean? Unusual. Salty, roasted seafood? Salty, drying seaweed? Seaweed, that's it. Ah, no, hang on, it's.. it's... it's...

Bugger, it's corked. (25/2/05)

Cellar Move

Trays of wineThe problem with moving house is that you have to move all your wine as well. Never have I had so little to show for so much work, or spent so much time cataloguing the contents of boxes. My reward has been the pleasure of discovering long-forgotten bottles, at some point lost from my records. It's been a day of sorting my cellar out.

Although I have a quantity of wines still packaged in cardboard cartons, or in wooden cases, the majority of bottles in my cellar have been held in a rack. There are many odd bottles - Latour Haut Brion 1995, Climens 1979 (originally a pair - but I drank the other one) - or twos and threes - Sorrel Hermitage Le Greal 1995, Larmande 1996 - as well as quads and sextuplets - Beaucastel, Musar and the like. Whatever, they all need packing up for transport to where they will be stored while I continue my house-hunting expeditions.

Polystyrene boxes, Huet & Pierre Bise in the backgroundI contacted a friend that runs a local Oddbins, who offered dozens of boxes, but unfortunately almost all such boxes store bottles upright ( I did ask for wooden cases, but unsurprisingly these go out on display). I really wanted something which would hold my bottles laying flat, and so I opted for a selection of different cardboard trays picked up at my local Costco. Some of these are extremely sturdy, having originally transported such weighty items as melons and apples, and hold an amazing thirty bottles in some cases. I can hardly bloody lift them! Some are flimsy - bread trays, for instance - and these I avoided. They stack well - six deep at least - the key being the packing of each individual box so that the bottles come level with the lip, otherwise the ones on top sag into those below.

Musar, Pol Roger and moreI also found a use for those polystyrene boxes that contain my meat deliveries (from an online butcher rather than the local supermarket). The small ones are just right for half bottles, whereas the larger protects awkwardly shaped (fat) bottles such as Champalou Cuvée Moelleuse 1996, Dagueneau Silex 2001 and a bunch of 50 cl Coteaux du Layons from Chateau de la Genaiserie. And I was pleased to discover that some rather sad and squashed looking boxes, which I thought too damp, were in fact still quite sturdy - a quick application of packing tape and they were as good as new. Many of these boxes are cartons transported from the Loire containing Huet, Champalou, Aubuisieres, Pierre Bise, Baumard and the like. From Vouvray and Layon to Liverpool, and thence to Edinburgh, all in the same box (and the same car). Hopefully the next journey these wines undertake will be 'down my neck', as they say! (2/2/05)

Claret and Port

Last night I was e-mailing a friend, summarising our 2001 and 2003 joint purchases (we are talking Bordeaux here) when I thought back to my post on 2001 Bordeaux in June last year. With my ear to the ground (the jungle drums were beating strong) I had detected a suggestion that prices would rise, with the anticipation of elevated scores from RP. My memory jogged, I revisited the matter, and learnt that the jungle drums may have been playing a different tune to the one I heard. Six months on, the prices have shifted only a tiny bit, with the maximum rise being £16 per case, and with one wine even falling in price (prices from Fine & Rare, comparing June 2004 with January 2005):

So 2001 remains good value. And with a bumper crop of decent quality expected for 2004 (those jungle drums again) I don't think there will be any sudden price hikes in the short term. It looks as though 2001 will remain a good value vintage through 2005.

Whether or not I will be buying, though, depends on my impending house purchase and move to Edinburgh. My New Year's resolution is to buy no more wine before my house move, and to reduce the size of my cellar with some appropriate drinking, so I have less bottles to shift when the time comes. My resolution lasted six days, although I haven't really cracked. All the sale brochures (mostly of little interest) have gone into the recycling bin. But after years of supping the Warre's Traditional LBV 1990 and 1992, I was surprised to see the 1994 - only recently arrived on the shelves - joined by the 1995, which I bought (just one bottle - but it still counts). I do wonder if this indicates low stocks of the 1994, as much of the wine will have gone to make the Vintage Port, 1994 being an excellent and widely declared year. If the 1994 LBV is a good'un (I hope to open it next week - perhaps against the 1995 as a comparison) it may be wise to stock up on this value Port sooner rather than later. (7/1/05)

Thoughts from 2004

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