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Woodwinters 2008 Tasting - Part 2
Part 1: Continuing my look at the wines from the recent Woodwinters tasting, which I began with the white wines, I now present my notes on the reds. There were many impressive bottles shown here, with some new wave Spanish and Portuguese wines easily matching and perhaps outclassing more established labels from elsewhere. Starting with the classic French regions, the 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape from Roger Sabon was head and shoulders above everything else French. From Italy I was suckered by the two Gaja wines, both from Angelo Gaja's Tuscan venture Ca'Marcanda, as well as the 2004 Berardenga Rancia from Felsina. From Spain, a well known name, that of Pesquera, shone with the 2005 Tinto, but alongside was the 2004 Pintia, Vega Sicilia's 'outreach' operation in Toro and this was just as good, and perhaps would just edge it if I had to choose.
Elsewhere, the delightful Quinta de la Rosa Reserve, one of the best wines of the tasting I think, and so I look forward to trying more Portuguese efforts when the top Portuguese wines come to Edinburgh for a tasting next year. In fact there were many good wines here, from Ridge, Elderton and others. My notes are below. As usual prices given are from the Woodwinters 2008 wine list, and I have also included wine-searcher links for transparency. (18/12/08)
Tasting Notes - Red Wines
Tasted in November 2008. Click
for stockists.
Château Patache d'Aux (Médoc) 2004: I'm glad to report that this
claret has some very typical cigary and cedary fruit on the nose, early signs of
maturity perhaps. There is a good substance to the palate, a nicely rounded
grip, and some attractive, evolving flavours. Overall, good fruit, an appealing
nature overall, just a little short if anything. But good. 16/20 (£15)
Domaine de la Madone Fleurie Cuvée Tradition 2006: This Beaujolais cru
has long been a sentimental favourite, ever since I camped in the village and
spent my evenings cradling a glass of the local wine, heaven knows how many
years ago. This cuvée has pleasing, fresh red fruit on the nose, with just a
little hint of caramel, perhaps wood-derived? On the palate, chalky and
minerally, quite a nice substance, a little grip which I like, and overall a
wine of some appeal. 15.5/20 (£11.50)
Rene Bouvier Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice 2005: The Justice terroir
lies to the east of the village and is named for the hanging post there, where
justice was once meted out in a very final fashion. The soils underfoot are part
alluvial plain, part stony slope. The nose is very feral, animalistic, and there
is good substance on the palate. It has a nice cottony texture, well polished
although there is considerably depth to it too. A touch hot I think, rather
primary, but with good potential 16+/20 (£28)
Paul Boutinot Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret Les Coteaux Schisteux 2005:
Séguret is one of those communes that may append its name to the villages
appellation; just north of Gigondas, this should be an interesting terroir.
The nose of this wine starts off with a rather high-toned, slightly rubbery
character, then reveals nice blackberry and raspberry fruit. The palate is rich,
creamy, rounded with grip. It has a certain appeal, with a good, spicy, grippy
finish. 16+/20 (£9.50)
Domaine la Soumade Rasteau Cuvée Prestige 2006: A little further north
than both Gigondas and Séguret is Rasteau, and one of the leading domaine's here
is Andre Romero's Domaine la Soumade. This is one of five cuvées produced, and
in this vintage it has a dark, glossy appearance. The aromatics are just what we
should expect; sweet, concentrated, ripe Grenache fruit. Dense, and a touch
savoury, the palate shows a well polished if rather well extracted midpalate,
although with decent acidity too. This has much potential, and should be very
good indeed. 16.5+/20 (£16)
Roger Sabon Châteauneuf du Pape Réserve 2005: The third in this little
trio of southern Rhônes, and showing the most promise too. The Sabon family
have tended vineyards here since at least the 16th Century. In this successful
vintage they produced a dense, complex, meaty wine, showing wonderfully earthy
and aromatic quality. The palate is dense, firm and compact, with animally
fruit. Full and grippy, with considerable style, this has great potential. 17.5+/20 (£20)
Graham Wharmby Conan (Barbera d'Asti) 2006: Yes, you're right. A big
muscly wine....it has to be....Conan the Barbera. Despite the groan-worthy pun, this is
actually a really good wine. It starts off quite appealing on the nose, dense and
savoury, a touch leathery, but with good fruit purity. The fruit on the palate
has an upright, chalky character but with lots of texture and plenty of tannic
backbone. This is impressive stuff. 17+/20 (£14.50)
Ca'Marcanda Promis (IGT Toscana) 2005: Ca'Marcanda is
Angelo Gaja's
Tuscan estate, located in the coastal Maremma region. This is Merlot and Syrah,
with a little Sangiovese. This blend gives the wine a complex nose, of dark
fruit, game, tar and a touch of toffee. Bright but with clear substance on the
palate, this is lovely, elegant and also textured. It has freshness, midpalate
grip and acidity. Overall it is well judged and very appealing. 17+/20
(£22)
Ca'Marcanda Magari (IGT Toscana) 2005: This is
Angelo Gaja's Tuscan
Bordeaux blend, led by Merlot but with large chunks of Cabernet Franc and
Sauvignon too. This has a slightly deeper character on the nose than the Promis,
with more savage elements, although it still has a fine, stony and savage style.
There is oak, unsurprisingly, which will need to integrate a little, but there
is also plenty of well defined, fresh but rich, tarry fruit. Creamy on the
midpalate, fresh, weighty but balanced, with a dark plum finish. Elegance here,
beautifully polished tannins, this is an impressive wine. 17.5+/20 (£32)
Cerro del Masso Chianti 2006: Some nice, bright fruit on the nose
here, with a slightly jammy edge. But it is cleanly done, and it still has some
appeal to me. Surprisingly fresh on the palate, good substance and flavour too.
Light tannins, firm acidity. A wine for drinking now rather than cellaring, and
decent value at this price. 16/20 (£7.50)
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2006: This has more feral and furry notes on
the nose. Nicely textured on the palate, certainly well defined, rather furry
fruit, with overall a rather lean style. Prominent structure, and a decent
drinking style, although I think I prefer the Cerro del Masso. 15.5+/20 (£11)
Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga
Chianti Classico Riserva Rància 2004: This is
Felsina's flagship wine, and one that has been adorable in previous vintages,
and the 2004 doesn't disappoint - although the price seems to be continuing its
upward trend. Dense fruit, liquorice, slightly tarry, certainly rich with a
promising depth. Lots of cherry and plum fruit on the palate, backed up by piles
of structure and tannins. Fresh, not roasted, but deep and impressively
structured, with lots of grip and a huge finish. Great length. Excellent
potential. 17.5+/20 (£32)
Farnese Edizione Cinque Autoctoni (Abruzzo/Puglia) 2005: Autoctoni
refers to the five indigenous varieties in this blend, Montepulciano and
Sangiovese from Abruzzo, Primitivo, Negroamaro and Malvasia Rossa from Primitivo.
This cross-regional blend means this is officially a non-vintage wine, although
the serial number 2005 on the back label gives us a clue. More immediately
notable, however, is another element of the packaging; this has to be the
heaviest bottle I have ever encountered. Onto the wine; the nose is packed to
the edge with dried fruit and spices, and perhaps unsurprisingly the palate has
a creamy, intense, soft and rounded texture. A huge wine, full of substance, but
underpinned by good tannin and acidity. It is difficult to know but I suspect
this wine, which is certainly approachable now for those that appreciate rich
intensity (think ripasso style), will also do well in the cellar for many
years. 16.5+/20 (£20)
Pintia (Toro) 2004: The Pintia estate, which is owned by
Vega Sicilia,
is located in Toro, which lies on the Duero river downstream from Ribera del
Duero. It is 100% Tinta do Toro, a local clone of Tempranillo, and it sees 12
months in oak, predominantly French. The aromas are dense, almost creamy, with
savage, slightly rubbery fruit and nuances of animal fur and roasted meats.
Warm honeyed oak too. A huge depth on the palate, rich and creamy as the nose
suggested, nevertheless very tight and compact, with spicy tannins. Lots of
power and substance here, massive and sweet. This demands time in the cellar,
but it will reward your patience I am sure. 17+/20 (£29)
Pesquera Ribera del Duero
Crianza 2005: Made from 100%
Tempranillo, this wine sees 18 months in American oak and 6 months in bottle
before release. Today it seems open and quite wild on the nose, with dark and
spicy fruit, although there is a precise and stony edge to it. Chillies,
cherries and chocolate all intertwined here. An appealing style on the palate,
rich and yet with a crisp and stony edge, and a touch more creamy in the
midpalate. Well judged tannins. This has lots of positive style. Very good
indeed. 17+/20 (£16)
Quinta de la Rosa Reserve (Douro) 2004: Quinta de la Rosa branched out
from Port in the 1990s and began making table wine using typical Port varieties
including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz. There is plenty
of character on the nose here, some slightly rubbery fruit along with plenty of
earthy, wild, roast meat character, and some fennel oak. The palate is firm and
creamy, rich but elegantly composed, balanced with good grip. There is a
slightly high-toned element, firm acidity, and overall this has delicious
potential. 17.5+/20 (£20)
Sepp Moser Sepp Zweigelt (Neusiedlersee) 2006: It is often forgotten that
this variety was the result of the crossing of Blaufränkisch and St Laurent by Fritz Zweigelt
at the Federal Institute for Viticulture and Pomology at Klosterneuburg,
Austria, in 1922. This particular example has open, soft fruit on the nose,
rather plummy in character. The palate doesn't step out of line; soft fruit
everywhere, a little canned-confected strawberry with the plum now, and just a
touch of chalk. Certainly an interesting wine. 14/20 (£7.50)
Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (Margaret River) 2006: Another
old favourite from Western Australia, this is the old Trinders blend and
although I believe it is still sourced from that vineyard the name no longer
appears on the label. It has a toffee-tinged red fruit on the nose, and is still
showing some evident oak. Nicely poised on the palate, fresh and stylish,
elegant and in possession of good balance. Reserved, with clean ripe fruit, but
more filled out in the midpalate, this is really appealing, and should do nicely
in the cellar for a year or two. 16.5+/20 (£12.50)
Rockbare Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale) 2006: Made by Tim
Burvill, this is a blend of old, dry-grown bush-vine Grenache with Shiraz and
Mourvèdre of the region. The nose shows density and ripeness, with a thick seam
of deep, charcoaly, tarry, violet-tinged fruit. This is all double cream on the
palate, with a spiky green apple acidity. Intense, savoury, eye-popping stuff.
Not for everyone's palate, including perhaps mine. 15.5/20 (£10)
Elderton Command Shiraz (Barossa) 2000: This wine is now over eight
years of age, and that shows here at every point of my assessment. The wine has
clearly lost some red pigment, and it is moving into a tawny-brick phase. The
nose has also developed, with a maturing, slightly sweaty, leathery aroma. It
has high-toned, pastille-herby fruit, and is certainly very rich and open. To me
though this warm richness all seems a little fuzzy and loose-knit, while the
flavour profile hovers between sweet and well seasoned. Good wine though, for
fans of the style. 16.5+/20 (£25)
Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet
Sauvignon (California) 2004:
Perhaps the most under-appreciated of all California's assets? Creamy cherry and
plum fruit on the nose here, showing plenty of indicators of youth, especially
the spicy oak that it possesses. A middleweight, with red plums and more
domineering oak on the palate, this has a firm but well hidden tannic structure,
good acidity and overall a nice sense of balance. Not over the top at all, and
clearly nicely set up for many years in the cellar. I find the long, spicy
finish particularly attractive. 17+/20 (£25)
Altair (Cachapoal Valley) 2003: Altair, apart from being a star in the
Aquilo constellation, is also the name of a joint venture between Chilean giant
San Pedro and the Dassault family (owners of Château Dassault) of Bordeaux. The
first vintage was in 2002. The nose carries huge aromas of coffee grounds and
green peppercorn, scattered over a layer of blackcurrant pastille fruit. The
palate starts of in a surprisingly gentle fashion, full of coffee and
blackcurrant cream, with a soft and ripe nature, but with good extract
underneath it all. Lots of ripe structure, lots of grip, and a very modern style
of pure fruit. None of the rubber or overt greenness that some think mark all
Chilean wines, but there are wood-derived notes of charcoal, good length and
balance. A good effort; it will be interesting to see where this goes in the
future. 17+/20 (£33)
Krohn Colheita Port 1997: A single Port from an excellent vintage
which has been aged in wood for at least seven years before bottling and
release. Full and firm on the nose, with nice raisin and nut character. Full,
gently sweet, very firm with admirable style. A touch baked, very full, firm and
tasty rather than ethereal or elegant. An appealing style. 16/20 (£14.50)
- Part 1: My notes on the white wines from the Woodwinters 2008 Tasting.
