Home > Trade Tastings > Woodwinters 2008 Tasting
Woodwinters 2008 Tasting - Part 1
It has been open season for tastings recently; during the last couple of months I don't feel as though I have had time to catch my breath. I have travelled up and down the UK, looking at Sam Harrop's work on the Cabernet Franc project, repeat examinations of the 2006 Bordeaux and 2004 Bordeaux vintages, and the wines of Lay & Wheeler. The annual New Zealand tasting was informative, with yet again many high quality wines in what is still a dynamic and developing wine country, as was an inspection of the rather less dynamic wines of Navarra (yet to be published).
So with a hectic few weeks of travel and tasting drawing to a close it is
good to look at something much closer to home.
Woodwinters (01786
834 894) is a young merchant based in Bridge of Allan, near
Stirling. A short drive up the M9 was all that was required to reach this
afternoon tasting, rather different to the 4:30am rising required for a London
event. What I found here, however, was no small-town, provincial affair. Doug
and Cara Wood (pictured, centre and right) have established a fine list, peppered with famous
names, new kids on the block and some old favourites. No wonder they and their
dynamic team have already taken second place for best UK independent merchant in
the 2008 Decanter Awards. They appear to have celebrated by purchasing a defunct branch of
Oddbins in Edinburgh, and by the time this is published they should be open for
business at their second store.
Amongst the wines here there are some obvious candidates for excellence, so it seems unnecessary for me to draw your gaze towards the likes of Krug's Grande Cuvée or Cloudy Bay's Sauvignon Blanc. "Iconic" is the appropriate term here, I think. Instead, the delight of tastings such as this is often discovering something different, and so the first fizz listed below, from Fergettine in Franciacorta, Italy's only DOCG tied to the méthode champenoise, is worthy of some attention. I am not very familiar with Christian Moreau, and so it was instructive to sample the 2006 Vaillons from this domaine, a wine that demands time in the cellar in my opinion, and it was also fun to see Chevilly's Quincy outperform the neighbouring Sancerre from Sautereau; an object lesson in looking for producer and quality, rather than appellation. Most unusual wine of the tasting was undoubtedly the Auslese Sauvignon Blanc from Sepp Moser, a wine which was all herbs and honey mixed together; esoteric, but also of good quality, but I have to confess I found more ready pleasure in an old favourite, Uroulat from Charles Hours.
I start my notes with the sparkling and white wines, including sweet wines (see part 2 for the red wines). Prices given are from the Woodwinters 2008 wine list, and I have also included wine-searcher links for transparency. (16/12/08)
Tasting Notes - Sparkling & White Wines
Tasted in November 2008. Click
for stockists.
Fergettine Franciacorta Satèn (Lombardy, Italy) 2003: From the only
Italian region legally required to use the méthode champenoise, this 100%
Chardonnay cuvée has spent 36 months on the lees, and is bottled at a pressure
of 4.5 atmospheres, so it has a crémant style. It has an appealing,
bright, lemony character on the nose, and a creamy mousse in the mouth,
underpinned by quite firm acidity. Clean white fruits dominate, ripe but with a
herby twist, this is very attractive. It is drinking now but with all that
structure I am confident it would develop nicely in bottle too. 16.5+/20 (£20)
![]()
Cavit Primo Prosecco (Veneto, Italy) NV: Fresh and aromatic on the
nose, soft and herby fruit, floral and a little sherbetty. Soft and papery on
the palate, gentle in style, with clean aromatics, this is simple fayre but it
will please many palates and it is good value as party fizz. 14.5/20 (£6)
![]()
Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Marlborough, NZ) NV: This is the current release
of the non-vintage Pelorus, which is usually predominantly Chardonnay and which
spends two years on the lees before disgorgement. Here the wine has leafy fruit
on the nose, but with a little tropical, sweet, confected, sherbetty edge to it
as well. There are also little hints of toffee, although they are certainly
subtle. The palate seems clean though, showing pure white fruits and a good
substance. An attractive wine, nicely framed by good acidity, this needs a year
or two I think. 16+/20 (£14)
![]()
Krug Grande Cuvée NV: Current release. This has a surprisingly steely element
to the nose, which is clean, pure and very primary, with just a subtle vein of
nuts behind it all. The palate is really very good; it has a great depth, with a
lovely, harmonious character. On the finish it reveals a little more of its
deeper style, as it shows here a full, nutty crescendo. Excellent potential
here, but right now this is clearly still in a very primary and tight phase. 17.5+/20 (£95)
![]()
Domaine Mittnacht Frères Riesling 2006: The 'midnight brothers' have
made a very lively and characterful Riesling here, showing aromas of rich and
ripe fruits, with a slightly dried character. There is a nice style on the
palate, good minerally acidity, and a flourish of dried white fruits on the
finish. This is really appealing, but needs time to show its best. 16.5+/20 (£11)
![]()
Christian Moreau Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2006: This has an
interesting papery element on the nose, otherwise some faint minerality, but
otherwise it is in a dumb and youthful stage. There is a good structure on the
palate, rich with an appropriate weight, and overall it has balance. This is
looking very promising for the future. 17+/20 (£16)
![]()
Michel Bouzereau Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006: This is declassified Meursault, I
am told. It starts off a little reduced on the nose, a little rubbery, but this
does blow off to give notes of toastiness. Nice flesh, buttery but with nice
acidity underneath, and slightly high-toned. A good grip, a good depth of
flavour, clean and characterful. Finishes well with nice length. 16+/20 (£16)
![]()
Domaine de Chevilly Quincy 2006: Quincy is just down the road from
Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, and can offer a good value alternative. This example
has a minerally, herby, steely edge to the aromas, and a good grip on the
palate. It is firm and structured, with minerally green fruit and a dry finish.
It also has a bit of length, and overall a good style. 16/20 (£9.50)
![]()
Sautereau Sancerre 2007: A subdued, papery character on the nose
here, but then it opens out to reveal aromas of exotic passion fruit and perhaps
a hint of mango. The palate is rounded, fresh, chalk-edged but not incisive. The
acidity is only moderate, the tropical fruit sweet but also a bit peppery. It
has grip, but overall a little too diffuse and short for me. 15/20 (£12.50)
![]()
Cave de l'Ormarine Duc de Morny Picpoul de Pinet 2007: Picpoul can be
found scattered throughout Provence and the Languedoc, although it is only in
the vineyards of Picpoul de Pinet does it have its own appellation. This has a
fresh and fragrant set of aromas, with lovely, shell-like minerality evident.
Perfumed, and a touch rounded on the palate, it has a soft and easy character,
and I think I would enjoy it more if there was more acidity. Good though.
14.5/20 (£8)
![]()
St Ferréol Viognier (VdP d'Oc) 2006: Barrel-fermented, this wine shows
the creamy honey-toast of its birth, with some nice peach fruit alongside. There
seems to be more perfume on the palate, with rather soft, lychee, apricot stone
and pine nut characteristics, although it does seem rather diffuse and loose
knit. There is some nice acidity though. Good. 16.5/20 (Price to be
confirmed)
![]()
Domaine de Triennes Viognier Sainte-Fleur (VdP du Var) 2005: A wine from a
large Provençal estate established by Jacques Seysses, Aubert de Villaine (of
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) and Michel Macau, this has aromas of honey and
acacia, with fresh bunches of wild flowers alongside. The palate is gentle,
fairly appealing although it has a rather fat midpalate, but it also has a
slightly bitter, husky grip. Certainly an interesting wine here. 14.5/20 (£14)
![]()
Dreissigacker Riesling Trocken 2007: This has floral fruit on the
nose, with a plain minerality. Quite aromatic, soft, supple, with a very gentle
attack considering this is a trocken. Overall it has a full but calm
presence, and although I find it quite straightforward it is still certainly
attractive. 16/20 (£10)
![]()
Markus Molitor Riesling Feinherb 2006: Feinherb is an old term,
gaining in popularity once again, used in place of halbtrocken, so this
should be between a kabinett and trocken in style. It has a nice,
steely, fruit character on the nose, with a minerally, appley freshness. On the
palate it has a gentle disposition, just off-dry, fresh, supple and soft. It has
only moderate concentration of flavour, but overall a nice character and it
finishes nicely. Good. 15.5/20 (£9.25)
![]()
Pieropan Soave Classico (Veneto) 2007: The last vintage of this wine
that I tasted was the 2006 nine months ago and I found it quite closed down.
Today I am having the same experience with the 2007. It has subtle, honey-herby
fruit on the nose. A good weight on the palate, which is supple and full,
rounded with a good grip. Fine, ripe, but with a nice acidity underneath. Very
good, although difficult to judge. 16-16.5+/20 (£10)
![]()
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2006: New Zealand's most
famous wine, I am sure; I last tasted this vintage two years ago. This has a
very pure nose, loaded with asparagus, creamy yellow fruits and even a little
gooseberry. Very fine, well defined, rich, full and surprisingly creamy, this is
a substantial wine which fills out very nicely on the palate, and which even
seems to have a little grip at the end. Good length too. 17+/20 (£23)
![]()
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc Marama (Marlborough) 2007: This has an unusual
nose for Sauvignon, all fennel and toast, and that is because this wine has seen
fermentation followed by 14 months in oak. The palate is clean, fairly richly
textured, with unsurprisingly a lot of oaky-toasty grip. Lots of substance here,
power, pepper and spice, and even a little wood tannin, leading up to a big,
spicy finish. Not everybody's cup of tea I am sure, but I like it. Good. 16+/20 (£16)
![]()
Seresin Chardonnay Momo (Marlborough) 2006: I find honeyed oak on the
nose here, a full and fat character, and plenty of tropical fruit. There is a
lot of creamy oak on the palate too, although it is rich and rounded, with
plenty of substance. This seems to me to be rather loose knit, nevertheless
there are elements of quality here. This is good. 16+/20 (£9.50)
![]()
Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (Margaret
River, WA) 2007: This is an old friend, although not in this vintage;
the last I tasted was the 2005. There is a touch of methylpyrazine to the
nose, which has a very brisk and typical style. It is lively, yet rich and
fleshy, and fairly substantial in the mouth. Overall though it is rather
soft in composition, and it has a rather flat finish. A bit short, too.
It is good, though. 15/20 (£11.50)
![]()
Frankland Estate Rocky Gully Riesling (Frankland River, WA) 2006: The
Frankland Estate, situated on the Frankland River, is home to Barrie Smith and
Judi Cullam. This wine has a great nose, full of minerals and petrol, evocative
and ripe. Full and fleshy on the palate, the wine is actually far less incisive
than I was hoping for based on the aromas. It is rather soft, with a short
finish marked by a confected edge to the dried fruit. 15/20 (£8.50)
![]()
Tallarook Roussanne (Upper Goulburn, Victoria) 2005: The nose here shows plenty of
oaky character, alongside dried fruits with a minerally, rather sherbetty edge.
Soft, rounded, rather gentle on the palate, although built up underneath by some
firm, oak-derived tannins. The acid is rather low-level, and overall it has a
loose, open-knit composition. It doesn't have a lot of vigour. Nevertheless
there are some good features here. 15.5/20 (£10)
![]()
Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch) 2007: This has a varietally-true
style on the nose, which has herby buttercream, scattered with tropical fruits
and spiced with methylpyrazines. Perhaps a mix of ripe, late-harvested and
borderline, early-harvested fruit? Looking at the harvest start and end dates it
went on for over five weeks, so this is a possibility. The palate ripe and
rounded, with gentle acids but a firm grip which persists through onto the
finish. Good, but rather a distinctive style that won't be for everyone. 15.5/20 (£11.50)
![]()
Sepp Moser Sauvignon Blanc Auslese 2003: This has a just fabulous
nose, showing a huge concentration of gritty, concentrated sweet fruits. On the
palate it is overtly sweet, but showing lots of very typical Sauvignon character
as an unusual contrast. It is intense and honeyed, yet also herby, and when it
warms a little on the palate it develops notes of smoke, and a meaty richness.
Totally unexpected, certainly off the wall, but still very good. 17+/20 (£8)
![]()
Araldica Moscato Passito (Piedmont) 2004: On the nose this has dried
fruits, especially oranges with honey, and no shortage of sweetness. The palate,
as you might expect, has a similar soft, sweet, honeyed style. Nevertheless it
is open, aromatic and has an appley freshness. Although straightforward has good
character and at this price is a real bargain. 15.5/20 (£6)
![]()
Charles Hours Uroulat (Jurançon) 2005:
A domaine that I have only discovered in the last few years, Charles Hours makes
excellent Jurançon, both dry and sweet. This has lovely
dense, honeyed sweetness. Full, rounded, minerally, quite soft and open,
although with good acidity and overall a delicious style. Great fruit on the
finish, direct and vibrant, but so rich too. Great potential here. 17.5+/20 (£16.50)
![]()
- Part 2: The red wines from the Woodwinters 2008 Tasting.
Part 1: 