Pol Roger Pure Brut Nature NV: Current release. Approximately one-third each of the three main varieties. This has a very clean and herbal white fruit style, quite crystalline, suggestive of white grapes coated in a little sugar crunch, also floral, with a little note of toffee behind it. There is certainly a little creamy-caramel scent too. Still very youthful on the palate, not totally composed, with some sweet whisky-mash notes coming in at the edges. Youthfully disjointed and needing to come together. Although there is a school of though that says zero-dosage cuvées shouldn't be aged, this certainly needs to be left to integrate for a few months at the very least. Lovely freshness though; it should be fine given time. 16-17+/20

Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV: Current release. As with the Pure Brut Nature served alongside, this is as usual a blend of approximately one-third each of the three main varieties. This has much more meat to it compared to the non-vintage 'Pure' cuvée, showing subtle elements of apple and biscuit; the Pinot Noir in this blend seems to be rather more expressive. And there is greater breadth to it on the palate as well, this certainly being the benefit of a sensitive dosage. It shows a fuller mousse and a more developed and integrated substance. Polished, still rather reserved but this is certainly accessible. As is often the case, an attractive wine. 16.5+/20

Bollinger Special Cuvée NV: Current release. This has a lovely character on the nose, so obviously reflecting the Bollinger style. There are notes of Brazil nut and papery fruit, rounded and expressing a presence yet also suggesting a well-reined in style. But it has a crunchy definition. And that's just how it comes across on the palate, showing here an exuberant and youthful mousse with a broad, polished and harmonious style. This seems still rather eager to please at present but all the necessary promise is here. Leave for a year or two and it should be delicious. 17+/20

Bollinger Rosé NV: Current release. The typically pale yet slightly golden-rosé hue that this non-vintage cuvée usually possesses. The nose has a lovely and dense smoke-tinged fruit character, admittedly very close in style to the Special Cuvée, with notes of peach and light citrus fruits alongside. On the palate it seems very full but composed, elegant and nicely integrated. This is certainly more ready and appealing right now than the Special Cuvée, perhaps it has been hanging around in distribution and retail a little longer? A fine and tingling mousse is part of an overall very stylish composition. This seems to be a consistently delicious cuvée from Bollinger. 17.5+/20

La Chablisienne Chablis Le Finage 2008: From vines averaging 20 years of age, fermented in tank with malolactic, matured in tank. A clean and fresh nose, with a touch of lanolin fatness to it, suggestive of some substance. This wine has a good presence in the mouth, a savoury character showing some grip, with fresh acidity too. Rather full, a good substance, and maintaining that grip through the finish, also with an attractive touch of bitterness to it here. Good, and certainly identifiable as belonging to the appellation. 15.5/20

La Chablisienne Chablis La Sereine 2006: From vines averaging 20 years of age, fermented in tank with malolactic, matured in tank and small barrels. Rather less typical of Chablis than La Finage, with more of a fruit pastille sweetness to the nose, with a layer of oak here too. There is a suggestion of slight reduction too. Rather a full and polished style in the mouth, rounded off, here showing much more oak than even the nose revealed, all new and golden and toasty. An interesting expression of Chablis for sure, but not one that appeals to me. 14/20

La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet 2007: From vines averaging 25 years of age, fermented in tank and barrel with malolactic, matured in tank and small barrels for 12 months. Not that expressive on the nose, lightly polished oak which also comes through on the palate, appropriate and not out of keeping with the wine. There is also a suggestion of lift here, although it is subtle. Rather a well-rounded substance in the mouth, soft and unfocused at first, although with more grip and a brighter character to the fruit in the midpalate. Here it shows a little more zing and promise, as suggested on the nose. Good potential but needs 3-5 years. 16+/20

La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 2008: From vines averaging 25 years of age, fermented in tank and barrel with malolactic, matured in tank and small barrels for 15 months. This has a much more solid character on the nose than the Côtes de Léchet, a different vintage of course. Polished fruit here, with a nice substance on the palate, very substantial, a creamy citrus fruit character coming through the middle amongst the oak which is also present here. It has a robust style. A great presence in the finish though, savoury and full. Nice stuff. 16+/20

La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2006: From vines averaging 30 years of age, fermented in tank and barrel with malolactic, matured in tank and small barrels for 15 months. Quite a linear style presented here on the nose, with a very pure citrus-fruit definition, and with touches of stone fruit coming in here too. This is certainly appealing. It has a nice composition at the very start on the palate, polished and supple and with some midpalate spice and grip. And a touch of sourness to the fruit adds some more savoury aspects, along with a nice peppery vein. It does seem a little withdrawn at present, but there is good substance here, and a long spicy finish. Promising. 16.5+/20

La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 2006: From vines averaging 25 years of age, fermented in tank with malolactic, matured in tank and small barrels for 15 months. This is somewhat more funky on the nose. There is just a little touch of cheese here which is hiding the fruit to a large extent. And alongside I find some matchsticky reduction too, in fact more than a touch. Good substance on the palate though, rather a solid composition, bold and square without the same zing as some of the other wines although there is good acidity at the very core. Certainly interesting. Nevertheless I wonder if this bottle may not be 100% typical and thus I am reluctant to be conclusive with my score. 15-16+?/20

La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Château Grenouilles 2004: From vines averaging 40 years of age, fermented in tank and barrel with malolactic, matured in tank and small barrels for 20 months. A suggestion of crunch to the fruit on the nose here. And there are the beginnings of that slightly golden, crystalline, honeyed element coming in at the edges, suggesting the earliest signs of maturity. It is fairly expressive in that respect. Quite broad style on the palate, composed, showing the same early-maturing character here, relaxing into a softer, honey-tinged style, but still with some good acidity in the middle keeping it fresh. The slightly fat substance does tend to overshadow the structure a little though. Sour fruit character too. Still on the way up. 16+/20