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A Taste of Slovenia

Slovenia as an independent nation only came into existence in 1991, emerging from the ruins of a crumbling Yugoslavia. To the south is Croatia, another remnant of that relatively short-lived country which was brought together in the early 20th century and which disintegrated in such a bloody fashion less than one hundred years later. Slovenia has always looked west rather than south, however, to Italy and also perhaps to Austria to the north, rather than to its former Yugoslavian counterparts. Today, so few years after its creation, it is already a fully-fledged member of the European Union, having even held the presidency for six months in early 2008, sandwiched between Portugal and France, and it has adopted the Euro as its currency. It is perhaps no surprise that, should we look for evidence of that other very European activity, viticulture, we will find it in abundance.

Slovenia has three main wine regions, a point I have already touched upon in my first experience of the wines of this nation, when I tasted a handful of wines from Črynko, and these are home to more than 24000 hectares of vines. Of the three regions the most easterly is Podravje which occupies all of the eastern end of the country bordering Austria, Hungary and Croatia. Be it sweet, sparkling or still this is undoubtedly white wine territory, these styles accounting for 97% of what is produced here from a broad selection of varieties including Chasselas, Rumeni Muškat, Kerner and many others, including a number of more international varieties. There are seven smaller districts within Podravje, of which the principal two are perhaps Radgona-Kapela, a source of méthode Champenoise sparkling wines since 1852, and Maribor, which has a rather Germanic theme with Rizling (Riesling), Dišeči Traminec (Gewurztraminer) and other varieties having been introduced here. The others are the Ljutomer-Ormož, Haloze, Prekmurje, Srednje Slovenske Gorice and Šmarje-Virštanj districts.

To the west of Podravje, running along the border with Croatia, is Posavje, a smaller region where the balance of red and white is more even, with similar quantities of each produced. This region's reputation, however, is less admirable than that of Podravje or Primorje (often written as Primorska) to the west. This latter region, although the smallest, is undoubtedly the source of Slovenia's best wines. Continuous with the Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, the rows of vines career over the border with scant regard for international political boundaries. Some of the region's winemakers tend vines over the border in Italy, and likewise some Italians look after vines firmly rooted in Slovenian soil. And thus there are many similarities between the two regions, not least many of the grape varieties which the two share, albeit sometimes disguised under pseudonyms. The Italian Tocai Friulano becomes the Slovenian Sauvignonasse for instance, Refosco becomes Refošk, Ribolla masquerades as Rebula, and so on.

Here there are again some smaller districts of which we should take note. First up is Goriška Brda (Goriška Hills), sometimes abbreviated simply to Brda, the most northerly of the four Primorje districts, a region which directly abuts the vineyards of Collio Goriziano just across the border. Brda is dominated by international varieties, not unlike the vineyards of Friuli of course, and Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris (usually known as Sivi Pinot) thus dominate here, alongside the likes of Rebula and Refošk. To the south of Brda is Vipavska Dolina (Vipava Valley), a region best known for fresh white varieties, such as the Sauvignonasse (Tocai Friulano) tasted in this line up. Next up is Kras, a region renowned for the robust red wine Terran, as well as aromatic white wines from the likes of Refošk, Malvazija (Malvasia) and Prosecco, and finally there is Koper where the local vines rub shoulders with many international varieties again, such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

The wines tasted here largely originate from the two regions at either end of Slovenia, Podravje and Primorje. I found them on the whole to be very good, with the best wines showing a very modern style, rich but also dry (or suho - I have given a few commonly encountered Slovenian wine words on the right). Some showed a quite distinctive textural quality which most probably originates with the maceration of the juice on the skins, not an uncommon practice with red wines but more unusual with whites. Nevertheless, it works well here. There was not one particularly strong variety, with examples of Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Rebula, blends thereof and other varieties all showing well; as an emerging wine nation it is not easy to pigeonhole Slovenia into a style or varietal category! From a regional standpoint, however, the best wines did seem to hail from Primorje, although by no means exclusively; the Steyer cuvées, and the Hiša Joannes Protner Renski Rizling, both from the vineyards around Maribor, were certainly good wines.

The wines tasted here are all imported into the UK by Spirits of Serendipity Imports who provided these samples for tasting. I have included Serendipity's prices below, as well as links through to Wine Searcher to ensure complete transparency. As usual I must make clear that I have no business relationship with Spirits of Serendipity other than the receipt of these samples. (29/9/09)

A Taste of Slovenia: Wines from Spirits of Serendipity

Tasted in September 2009. Click for stockists.

The Radgonske Gorice winery is located in Gornja Radgona, deep in the Podravje region, and turns out a wide array of wines including the curiously named 'Bubbly Bliss' and several cuvées made from the indigenous Bouvier.

Radgonske Gorice Bubbly Bliss Brut NV: A méthode champenoise cuvée, sealed under natural cork. A nice colour in the glass, a pale straw hue, with an exuberant froth at first, settling down to a fairly fine but plentiful bead. The nose has a rather herbal, green fruit character, with greengage and hints of smoked peppers. On the palate more smoky character coming through, over rather lean fruit with a touch of tin, and a fleshy presence that belies a generous dosage I think. Rather steely underneath it all, and not very generous in terms of fruit. Moderate sense of acidity despite what is probably questionable ripeness in the beginning. 13.5/20 (£15.25)

Radgonske Gorice Radgona Ranina (Radgona-Kapela) 2005: Ranina is a local synonym for Bouvier, a minor variety found not only in Slovenia but also Austria and Hungary. Bottled under a synthetic closure, and labelled as polsuho, so expect a little more residual sugar in this wine. The colour in the glass is pale, not quite water-white but close, with a somewhat papery, green, raw fruit nose. The palate offers a texture heavily influenced by residual sugar but without great character otherwise. There is some bitter grip, which I find somewhat intriguing, but nothing really to cushion its impact. Overall, not very interesting wine. 13/20 (£11.47)

Radgonske Gorice Ciconia Ranina (Radgona-Kapela) 2005: As explained above, Ranina is a local synonym for Bouvier. Bottled under a synthetic closure. The nose carries some aromas of candied stone fruits, dried apricot, compote pear. There's no oxidation despite the synthetic closure, although I suspect the wine has seen some time in oak before bottling; it has a rather solid, rounded feel to it rather than anything brighter. The palate is rich, with a glycerine texture, nectarine and tangerine flavour and a big grippy undertow. It's the texture that really dominates, the fruit elements more muted, the finish quite clipped and powerful despite this. Certainly an interesting bottle. 14/20 (£N/A)

The estate of Hiša Joannes Protner is located in Malečnik, a village at the eastern edge of Podravje, near Maribor. Štajerska, the area of origin, is a viticultural and historical region that encompasses the vines of Maribor. The Germanic influence is apparent here, with Muscat and Riesling the two varieties from this producer.

Hiša Joannes Protner Rumeni Muškat Sec (Štajerska) 2007: Bottled under screwcap, this dry Muscat hits 12.5%. The colour is clean and gives little away, but the nose is hugely expressive, as you might expect for this very aromatic variety, and it is very typical. There are notes of lychee, oranges and flower petals, a melange of sweetly ripe dessert grapes and orange blossom. Having said that there is also a little minerally, bitter suggestion, and there is no real overt sweetness. The palate is nicely polished and slightly plump, but dry, slightly chalky and with that subtle bitter grip coming in at the finish. Stylistically it is certainly perfumed and in your face, so this is one only for fans of the variety; it is just a little too flowery and over-the-top for me but it certainly has an appealing composition. 14.5/20 (£10.36)

Hiša Joannes Protner Renski Rizling (Štajerska) 2004: Bottled under cork. A good, green gold, rather rich colour in the glass to this Renski Rizling, a synonym for Riesling. The nose is similarly rich, showing a much deeper, firmer character than I was perhaps expecting. The fruit has a dried and rather autumnal character, with a waxy edge, and a rather crystalline nuance to it as well. Full, broad, with an immediate and very dry character on entry, this style persists through the midpalate. Fulsome, punchy, textured with a more waxy character again here, this certainly has an admirable style. Rather sappy, with a tangible substance, overall this is a good wine. 16.5/20 (£13.13)

The Steyer winery is located in Plitvica, a small village near Apace, close to the border with Austria. Again the influence from further north is in evidence here, and Dišeči  (Gewurztraminer) is the Steyer specialty, alongside Welschriesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and more.

Steyer Dišeči Traminec Exclusive (Štajerska) 2001: This is another Slovenian synonym, Dišeči Traminec being the local moniker for Gewurztraminer. This example is notable for having a good amount of bottle age. A pale lemon-gold, and a very typical nose for maturing Gewurztraminer, with talcy orange peel, rose petals, dry spices and grippy, lychee fruit. Gently fat on entry, very nicely polished, glycerine-textured but dry, with a good, rounded, well-formed and very tangible substance. A nice grip on the finish and a pleasing length too. Lots of exuberant and very aromatic qualities here. This has a lot of grip and appeal. 16/20 (£10.47)

Steyer Cuvée (Štajerska) 2007: Bottled under screwcap, this is a blend of Chardonnay, Sivi Pinot (Pinot Gris), Renski Rizling (Riesling), Sauvignon, Ranina (or Bouvier, if that helps) and Dišeči Traminec (Gewurztraminer), so you might consider this akin to a turbo-charged Alsacien Edelzwicker blend (aromatically it is certainly reminiscent), or perhaps what might result if the French ever created a pan-national appellation. Quite a pale hue. A nice nose, dry fruited, with touches of lychee and stone fruit. Rather open and loose-knit, but with a slightly talcy substance which is pleasing and punchy, with lots of decent acidity. A short finish. Fresh, bright, good for a salad or a summer's day, this is an appealing, no fuss bottle of wine. 15.5/20 (£9.36)

The Ščurek family have a good history of viticulture, stretching back at least three generations, perhaps many more. They are based in Medana, right on the border with Italy in the Goriška Brda region.

Ščurek Sivi Pinot (Brda) 2007: Sivi Pinot is better known as Pinot Gris. An attractive hue in the glass, a sort of pale dusty straw, a true vin gris in terms of appearance. Straw and sun-dried stone-fruits on the nose, peach skin, peach stone. A full bodied palate, firm but also with good texture, some good grip too, the force perhaps belying the wine's 13.5% alcohol. Good tingly acidity, well polished edges but lots of tangible substance and extract within. Has this seen some skin contact? Good grippy finish too. I like this; it would work well with white meats, especially roast chicken, or pork. Punchy finish. 16/20 (£12.25)

Ščurek Stara Brajda Old Vineyard Red (Brda) 2006: This wine is a blend of 20% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and then 30% each Merlot and Refošk, this latter variety also known as Refosco (as well as a number of other pseudonyms). The wine has a dense and glossy hue in the glass, and good spicy fruit on the nose. Dense and very tangible, with a rather rich but quite fresh style, and a rather dusty violet perfume which relates to the Cabernet Franc. A good weight on the palate, perfumed here too, with good substance and a nicely creamy weight. Notes of cherry and cranberry fruit, with that dusty note again. A touch rustic but certainly fresh, and perhaps a touch more acid would be preferred, but this is certainly a good wine and would make a fine alternative to a good cru bourgeois claret. There is cellaring potential too. 16.5+/20 (£20.34)

Next up two wines in the Carolina range from Jakončič, another Brda winery. Astute followers of UK wine competitions may recognise the name - Jakončič picked up a Decanter trophy with a previous Carolina cuvée. Both of these were of very good quality, and I featured the Rebula as my Wine of the Week.

Jakončič Carolina Rebula (Goriška Brda) 2007: Rebula is an uncommon variety, once widely planted in Friuli where it is known as Ribolla but now accounting for a tiny percentage of the vineyard there. This Slovenian example has an appealing rich colour, and a nose with floral elements, grippy peach skin, stone fruits with a slightly dried, crystalline quality. On the palate it is immediately full bodied, grippy, with polished, honeyed fruits running through the midpalate, before it starts to show a subtle and really flattering, slightly slippery, glycerol-like texture which matches the grippy structure rather well. Aromatic yet firm rather than flighty, this would be great with roast white meats. Lovely substance on the finish. Texturally and aromatically, this is impressive stuff. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 16.5/20 (£13.13)

Jakončič Carolina Malvazija (Goriška Brda) 2006: Malvazija might not seem a familiar grape variety, but fans of Madeira will know it; this is Malvasia, a grape long associated with the wines of that Mediterranean island. The nose here is expressive, minerally and enticing, the aromas a melange of almond, white chocolate, praline and honeyed, slightly crystalline fruits. A very fresh entry, showing a lovely weight of fruit backing up some flavours to match those on the nose, dried fruits matched with lots of punchy acidity and some gentle substance, overall very dry, and a good, clean, well-rounded finish. This is really very good indeed, delicious to drink and certainly very individual. Jakončič and the Carolina wines are clearly labels to look out for. 16.5/20 (£13.13)

Just to the south of Brda is Vipavska Dolina, where the Ivan Fornazarič and family tend Chardonnay, Sauvignonasse, Rebula and a selection of other varieties.

Fornazarič Sauvignonasse (Vipavska Dolina) 2004: You might assume seeing the name of this grape variety that it is a synonym for Sauvignon Blanc, but this is in fact Tocai Friulano, a North Italian variety (also sometimes known as Sauvignon Vert). A gentle golden colour in the glass. Fairly neutral on the nose at first, then more salty and mineral, then more grassy. Full on the palate, with smoky, candied fruits, full and sappy. Grippy, rounded, plump and tightly polished, this actually has plenty of character on the palate. Tight, with fresh acidity, and a lot of substance and texture, this makes good drinking. 16/20 (£9.89)

Fornazarič Rubino (Vipavska Dolina) 2005: A transparent, ruby red hue here. The nose carries aromas of cooked cherry and slightly dusty, cooked strawberry, all presented in a rather diffuse fashion, hard to pin down. The entry is soft, pillowy, rounded but with a decent kick underneath, with more of the cooked fruit character found on the nose coming through here, touched with a little liquorice, again all rather soft and imprecise. A touch of grip, showing a rather raw structure towards the finish, with a warming length. A touch chewy and yet not fleshy, this certainly warms the bones in a rather rustic fashion. 13/20 (£14.95)

Finally, one wine from the Batič estate, where Miha Batič fashions a selection of wines from largely international varieties but also including Pinella, Rebula and Malvazija.

Batič Chardonnay Riserva (Vipavska Dolina) 2003: An appealing, limpid, pale golden hue. The nose is subdued, elegant, nothing over the top, over-ripe or oaky here, so any fears of this being a soupy, over-baked wine typical of 2003 in Europe are ill-founded. It has some nicely polished stone fruits, and a faint trace of a toothsome honey character. Lovely texture on entry, glycerine-rich but also with enough acidity to balance it out and with some good peach and pear flavours too. Also notes of white pepper, with little toffee-caramel and brazil nut nuances coming in at the back, nothing overt, just very gentle suggestions of maturity. This is very nicely balanced, beautifully textured, almost silky, and overall this is very good. It has a nice little grip at the finish too. Nothing deep, minerally or too complex here, but nevertheless a very well made wine which although very drinkable now will repay further cellaring I am sure. 16+/20 (£N/A)