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South Africans from Roger Harris

Things are coming on in leaps and bounds at Norfolk based merchant Roger Harris. Thanks to these samples, I've had the chance to experience the sort of quality Harris and his team have located in South Africa. These are the newest additions to the Roger Harris list, alongside the Australian wines sourced last year, and the Beaujolais and Mâcon on which the family firm's reputation was founded. As with all the wines listed by Roger Harris, these are sourced from small, family-owned wineries, not the huge corporations behind the false brands that dominate some lists and the supermarket shelves. This commitment to small producers equates to a commitment to quality, an ethos that is the strength of the Roger Harris list.

These samples demonstrated how much South Africa has advanced in the last few years. The wines combine a purity of fruit with superb acidity and structure - the Pinotage from Lammershoek in particular displayed impeccable balance, and had an impressive focus. This has to be the most enjoyable expression of this grape that I have experienced in a long while. The Cabernet from Post House showed firm, ripe tannins that demanded further bottle age. These are no quaffers - these are serious wines which combine New World fruit with Old World style.

I sampled the following three bottles courtesy of Roger Harris Wines, and have included prices from Roger Harris. I have also included wine-searcher links for transparency. (26/11/03)

South Africans from Roger Harris - Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2003. Click for stockists:

Glenwood

Alastair Wood purchased the Glenwood estate in the 1980s, and first planted vines in 1989. A decade later, seeing the success other wineries had with fruit purchased from him, he decided to make his own wine. Together with his winemaker DP Burger they turn out superb examples of Semillon, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Shiraz, although it is with the white grapes that Wood and Burger feel they are most successful. Located in the Robertsvlei Valley, the estate enjoys cooler temperatures than nearby Franschhoek. It also has the highest rainfall of all South Africa - although not so high that occasional irrigation isn't still needed! These cool conditions help to preserve acidity, and mean that harvest-time here is several weeks later than in other nearby regions. No doubt this goes some way to explaining the quality of Glenwood's wines, but I think a lot is down to the perfectionist skill of DP Burger.

Glenwood Semillon (Franschhoek) 2002: This wine has a pale golden colour. An impressive, typical nose, full of lemon curd peppered with fleeting, complex notes of furniture oil and oatmeal. Richly flavoured with a good texture on the palate, but with lovely grip to back it up. Fresh, lemon-lime acidity. This is a stylish example of this grape for drinking now. 16/20 (£7.20)

Lammershoek

The Lammershoek (meaning 'lamb's corner') farm has been in existence since 1718, although the current owners Paul and Anna Kretzel only purchased it in 1995. Both Paul and Anna have come to winemaking from other careers - they were chemical engineer and nurse respectively - but they have picked up an impressive string of awards and accolades. Only their best fruit goes into the Lammershoek wines, the majority being sold off in bulk. There is a strong commitment to quality here.

Lammershoek Pinotage Barrique (Coastal Region) 2002: An unfined, unfiltered cuvée. Gloriously dark, glossy, reflective hue. Chocolate and a roasted edge to the dark, luscious berry fruit on the nose. The palate is lovely - elegant, with exquisite balance, and yet full of rich, creamy fruit. It's backed up by a good whack of ripe, integrated tannin and correct acidity. Brilliantly poised - this is impressive stuff indeed. 17+/20 (£8.75)

Post House

The Post House winery is run by Nick Gebers, who moved to Sellenbosch from the Natal with his family over twenty years ago. The winery is named after the building in which it is located - a small Post Office which once served the local missionary community of Raithby. Gebers has been running the winery since 1997, retaining some of the original Chenin Blanc, but replanting other areas with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. He was fairly new to winemaking - his first love is art, although he actually studied business - but some time spent working in Burgundy soon sorted that. The emphasis here is on quality, with small batch fermentation using natural yeasts, only a light fining and no filtration. As with Lammershoek, only the best is bottled as Post House, the majority of fruit being sold in bulk.

Post House Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch) 2000: Good colour. A lovely nose, which after a little while opens to reveal aromas of green and black olives alongside some dark fruits. Glorious structure on the palate, which has a wealth of savoury fruit backed up by a firm tannic structure and balanced acidity. This wine positively demands a couple more years in the cellar, but I couldn't help enjoying it now. 17.5+/20 (£8.80)