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Three Regional Classics

Naturally some varieties, the relationship being enshrined in law, are intrinsically associated with their appellations; Sancerre when white is always Sauvignon, Quarts de Chaume must be Chenin, and so on. But even outside the confines of appellation regulations some varieties have come to be associated with a region, state or country. I recently tasted three such 'regional classics' from three very different origins, all three recently received samples.

Kicking off with New Zealand, and the Nobilo 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, the country is of course inherently associated with Sauvignon - and I suspect this will remain the case for many years to come. Once regarded by some as a nation fit only for cold-tolerant German hybrid varieties such as Müller-Thurgau, New Zealand proved its critics wrong with a new style of Sauvignon Blanc that became a late-20th century vinous icon, although we should note that it is now showing its potential with reds as well. Pinot Noir from Central Otago stormed onto the stage only a few years ago, and I have noted - over two years ago now, in fact - that New Zealand also has great but as yet unrevealed potential with other red varieties. I am thinking in particular of Syrah, such as the 2006 Aurora Vineyard Syrah I featured back in 2007, when I wrote "There is lots here for The Aurora Vineyard and New Zealand to sing about, a country that clearly isn't all Sauvignon Blanc...or Pinot Noir".

Nevertheless Sauvignon Blanc, and especially Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, remains a classic style for Aotearoa, the Land of the Long White Cloud, and the same could also be said of the association between Australia's Clare Valley and Riesling. Although purists will always associate the variety with the vineyards of Germany, or perhaps Alsace, there is no doubt that there is a distinctive and very admirable style in those from the Clare Valley. The example here, the 2009 Magnus Riesling, comes from Leasingham, a historic Australian estate now owned, like Nobilo in New Zealand, by Constellation Brands, a multinational wine business which ranks as the world's largest. Unlike Nobilo, however, Leasingham has not done well under Constellation's umbrella, and in late 2009 the winery was closed down and the vineyards sold off, some to Tim Adams, the rest possibly for housing. Constellation retained the Leasingham name of course, the wines to be made at one or other of their many Australian wineries, a sad emasculation of a once-great name, now nothing more than a brand. The vintage featured here, the 2009, was the last to be made before the winery closed.

Finally comes the 2006 Lodi Old Vines Zinfandel from Ravenswood, another historic winery now part of the Constellation conglomerate, this time in California. The drinks-business giant acquired this winery from winemaker Joel Peterson, famous for his slogan "No wimpy wines" in 2001, just two years after he took his company public. There's no variety more intrinsically Californian than Zinfandel, and although there are perhaps too many easy-drinking, overly-sweet examples around there are also some great, firmer, more food-friendly bottles too. Peterson, who claims Constellation have never interfered with his winemaking autonomy, would put his wines in this latter category I think.

Now before we get to my notes themselves, I first feel obliged to acknowledge that some readers object to the appearance of big-brand names (and there's none bigger than Constellation) on Winedoctor. After all, wine brands are not the purpose or focus of this site. But it is occasionally useful to look at wines such as these; first, it facilitates my continued view of the Loire and Bordeaux, Winedoctor 'regions of interest', in the broader context of the world of wine. This is exactly the reason I still (and always will) attend tastings concerned with regions and countries other than the Loire and Bordeaux, such as my recent forays into South Africa and the Rhône to cite just two. Second, it keeps my feet on the ground; marketed wine brands such as these are, for many, valuable introductions to the world of wine, and it's healthy for me to have a handle, however loose, on what's out there.

Anyway, on with the wines; three regional classics from New Zealand, Australia and California, all part of (and provided by) Constellation Brands. (18/2/10)

Three Regional Classics: Tasting Notes

Tasted in February 2010. Click to locate all stockists.

Nobilo Regional Collection Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 2009: A pale hue in the glass, and a quite typical varietal nose, although with a touch of rainwater freshness alongside the slightly plump but very grassy, heavily methylpyrazine-infused fruit. It has the suggestion of crunchy, green under-ripe pear too. A moderate weight on the palate, showing lots of grip alongside some very firm and green acids, the style here very much all green bell peppers. In fact it becomes almost bitter in its composition, especially in the rather raw-fruited finish. 13.5/20

Leasingham Wines Magnus Riesling (Clare Valley) 2009: For an Australian example of this variety the wine has a remarkably pale hue, with just a little green-tinge to it. The nose is certainly not exuberant, rather it is lightly mineral nose, perhaps a little chalky-sherbetty, but with overtones of subtle tropical fruits if you look hard enough. In keeping with this the palate has a lean composition, rather heavily-structured but without the depth of fruit or flavour that I would have expected. In fact through the middle it lacks concentration and substance, showing a firm acid-toned character, rather like lean fruit drops. It culminates in a firm, compact, acidic finish. 14/20

Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel (California) 2006: This offering is mostly Zinfandel, although there is one-fifth Petite Sirah and a tiny drop of Carignan also in the blend, and it typically sees 18 months in oak, a large proportion new. The colour certainly isn't as deep or glossy as I was expecting, probably reflecting that barrel ageing to some extent, and there is a mature hue to it as well. The nose also carries some surprising interest, because alongside the sweet plum and liquorice fruit there are more complex notes of smoke, leather, cinnamon and underbrush, although there is an undeniable sweetness behind them. Fleshy and rounded on entry, a feeling that persists through the midpalate, carried along by plenty of texture and plump, creamy fruit. There is a firm tannic substance behind it, which shows in the peppery finish, along with some heat which may reflect the 14.5% alcohol this possesses. An accessible but also interesting wine, showing the jammy sweetness of ripe fruit but with a surprising element of intricacy too. A good if commercial, crowd pleasing style. 15.5+/20