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Ports for Winter
Port seems so appropriate when the weather takes a turn for the worse, although I know there are people out there who like to drink it all year round. And for seasonal festivities it is surely a must. There isn't much that can beat a glass of mature Port from a great vintage such as 1977 or 1970, the latter being a personal favourite, but for most of us such bottles are, I expect, few and far between. Fortunately there are plenty of other options which, while they do not offer quite the same contemplative complexity of aged vintage Port, they do have the advantages of good availability and also good value. I take a look at five such wines in this small tasting.

The five wines in question included two Ruby Ports and two examples of Late Bottled Vintage, finishing up with an old favourite in a new vintage, Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas. This latter single quinta wine was a clear winner in terms of absolute quality, with its pure, deep fruit and its seamless composition, a wine that can be drunk now (with some time in the decanter) but would do equally well in the cellar for a decade or more (I still have several bottles of the 1987 Quinta de Vargellas tucked away). I was also very impressed, however, especially when I caught a glimpse of the price tag, by the non-vintage Croft Triple Crown. At around £7, this seems heaven-sent in such hard times.
I have included details of likely prices and stockists here, but as usual my links through to Wine Searcher may well provide better bargains. (27/11/08)
Tasting Notes
Tasted in November 2008. Click
for stockists.
Fonseca Bin 27 NV: This wine has sweet and
macerated fruit on the nose, initially with a little confectionery and violets,
nevertheless very traditional and perhaps a touch spirity. The palate is also
spirity at first, but with time this dissipates, leaving plenty of fruit, a moderate substance
and a gently creamy midpalate. There is plenty of peppery grip, good acidity and
a very firm, perhaps slightly hard structure. All in all though it has a nice
style, with good substance to it, plenty of dark, tobacco-laced fruits and an attractive roasted-herb
edge. Good. 15.5/20 (£9.99, Waitrose, Morrisons, Threshers)
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Croft Triple Crown NV: A deepy coloured wine, this Port starts off
with plenty of accessible fruit on the nose, followed by more complex, organic
notes, elements of animal fur and baked earth, although always with that sweet
ripeness in evidence. A good fleshy start, more substantial and creamy in the
midpalate, although with a good, savoury edge to the sweet fruit as well. There
is structure here, nicely integrated spirit and spicy tannins too, with good
acidity. It has a sweet, solid finish and plenty of grit. Open and accessible,
but certainly not simple or straightforward, this is a very good Port, and for
the price it is a real bargain. 16.5+/20 (£6.99 - 7.49, Morrisons, Spar, Budgens)
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Taylor's Late Bottled Vintage 2003: Dark and glossy, dense at the core, vibrant rim.
Gorgeous nose. Takes time to open up; vibrant, lifted, well defined fruit, touch
of blue fruit here, with bright, smoky, black forest fruits behind. It is
vivacious and perfumed, full of violets. The palate is beautiful, fresh and
delineated, showing great purity at first, with crisp ripe fruits,
before a wave of tannin and acidity come across the midpalate. Finely balanced,
showing a creamy but not fat texture, delicious vivacity and freshness, good
sturcture and a rich, solid finish. Really very good indeed, ready now although
it needs a decant to really open up. 17/20 (£11.99, widely available)
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Dow's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2001: This is a deeply
coloured, concentrated wine, with a desne core and a rim that shows a little
maturity, with an oxblood-mahogany hue. On the nose there are aromas of very
slightly brawny fruit, dark with a slightly stewed character, but there is still
an appealing perfume too, with notes of violets and flower petals. A fine entry
on the palate, creamy but well composed, showing a lot of tannic grip through
the midpalate, but still with plenty of fruit and texture. This wine blends very
nicely a firm structure, sweet and nicely poised texture, savoury roast meat
notes and a slightly chewy, savoury finish. A good wine. 16.5+/20 (£9.99, widely
available)
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Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 2001: There was a time when
Taylor's release of Vargellas offered a chance to snap up a good value, maturing
Port bargain; but in the last few years we seem to have skipped very quickly from the 1988 to the
1998 and now to the 2001 vintages. Despite this being a youthful wine, however,
there is no problem with quality. The nose holds an obviously awkward, youthful
power, but with some time in the decanter it does show a bright, charcoaly, dark
fruit character. The palate is creamy and rich, and full of grip, flavour and
substance. Although approachable now with time in the decanter, and in fact
quite delicious, this is one Port which will do very well in the cellar, and is
far and away my favourite in this tasting. 17.5+/20 (£22.99
- 26.99, widely available)
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