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Champagne: Philizot and Comte de Lantage

A relatively young Champagne house based in Cerseuil, to the west of Epernay, Comte de Lantage came into being in 1987, the proud parents - so to speak - being Michèle and Alain Mandois. Alain was the latest generation in a line of Champagne viticulteurs that kicked off with Victor Mandois in the early 19th Century. As with many other small-scale growers the Mandois family, driven by the hardship of the Great Depression, moved into bottling and selling their own Champagne during the early 20th Century. In charge at the time was Henri Mandois, who subsequently handed the reins to his son Michel. When he then died in 1987, the responsibility fell to Alain.

Alain took the family business and from it created Comte de Lantage; for twenty years Alain and Michèle ran their small house, but with retirement looming in 2007 they found themselves looking for someone to take the reins, and the house was put on the market; the buyers were Virginie and Stéphane Philizot. The Philizots, from nearby Reuil, already had a successful business making and bottling Champagnes under their own name, but with the acquisition of the Mandois estate they have increased their capacity considerably.

I recently had the opportunity to taste four wines relevant to this short tale. Three were under the Comte de Lantage label, although inspection of the label revealed that two were attributable to Michèle et Alain Mandois, whereas the third was produced under the auspices of Stéphane Philizot. The fourth wine was under Philizot's own label, his Brut Numéro 2. Philizot has made a feature of producing three numbered cuvées, Numéro 1 purely Chardonnay, Numéro 2 Pinot Noir and Meunier, and Numéro 3 a blend of these three varieties. (15/8/08)

Philizot and Comte de Lantage - Tasting Notes

Tasted in August 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Philizot et Fils Brut Numéro 2 NV: A clean, pale, unremarkable hue with a persistent and streaming bead. The nose has a lovely freshness, rather minerally in places, but with a good, slightly nettly, slightly biscuity character. A very nice presence on entry, rather creamy in terms of textural quality, although this is counter balanced by a bitter streak which has some appeal, a lean grip. Firm and minerally underneath it, with nettles and pepper coming to dominate the finish. It isn't difficult to believe this is all Pinot. A refreshing aperitif. Bottled by Philizot et fils, Reuil, NM 489-001. 16/20

Comte de Lantage Cuvée de Réserve NV: A straw-gold colour. and a plentiful although fine bead here. The nose is surprisingly evolved, and very open, with plenty of nut and vanilla character expressed. Although it suggests soft, warm creaminess, the palate is appealing crisp, with an incisive mousse and fresh acid backbone. Over all it is very well defined, and it carries the sweetly styled fruit, which has a rather crystalline, dried character, very well indeed. Towards the finish it shows a richer, warmer style as was perhaps expected, and there is no shortage of full-on flavour. Flashy but also appealingly minerally. Bottled by Philizot et fils, Reuil, NM 489-003. 16.5/20

Comte de Lantage Grand Cru NV: This also has a rich straw-gold hue, with a small bead. The nose is remarkably more advanced, however, showing plenty of complex and evolved aromas, with notes of nuts, polish, old furniture and oiled wood. The palate follows on in a similar vein, full and evolved as it is, well defined and yet with a fat and creamy richness. Freshness comes from the still lively mousse and good acids. This is very appealing, and is good for drinking now. Bottled by Michèle et Alain Mandois, Cerseuil, NM 494-001. 17/20

Comte de Lantage Rosé Premier Cru Brut NV: A great colour here, salmon pink, and a fine-moderate bead. Fairly dense creamy fruit on the nose, with a little vanilla alongside the fruit. Dense substance on the palate, firm slightly creamy mousse, with appealingly bitter, nettly red fruits. This has a very fresh presence, with really straight and clean acidity, leading through to a lean finish with a bitter grip, and lots of overt Pinot character at the end. This is good. Bottled by Michèle et Alain Mandois, Cerseuil, NM 494-001. 16/20