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Oddbins Wine Fair 2001 - Old World

A selection of Old World wines from Oddbin's annual wine fair. You can also view my tasting notes on New World wines as well as a separate write-up of the Champagne and Fizz. (18/12/01)

Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2001. Click to locate stockists:

Bordeaux

Chateau Mazeris (Canon-Fronsac) 1998: Good black fruit aromas on the nose, with an inky edge. A soft palate, with a soft layer of fruit, but with peppery tannins and sharp acidity. A good depth of flavour. 16/20 (£9.99)

Chateau de Carles (Fronsac) 1998: Inky and minerally, slightly austere fruit on the nose. A great depth of flavour and fruit on the palate, although quite prominent tannins mean that this wine needs more bottle age. 16+/20 (Price unavailable)

Chateau Bellefont-Belcier (St-Emilion) 1998: Chocolate and gently crushed, spicy black fruits on the nose. A fairly classic palate, with some smoke and spice character to the fruit. There is a chalky edge to the tannins. Lacking in body or depth. 15.5+/20 (£15.99)

Chateau Beauséjour (St-Emilion) 1998: This has a greater depth of black fruit on the nose, and again a fairly classic palate with smoothly textured fruit, chocolate, and a structure of dry tannins. Some fruitcake spice. 16.5+/20 (Price unavailable)

Chateau Petit-Village (Pomerol) 1998: This has a lovely nose, of dark chocolate and black fruits, with a stony, mineral edge. Wonderful structure on the palate, very tannic, with correct acidity and plenty of black, bramble fruits. There's a chewy edge to the tannins. This wine has potential for ageing well. 17+/20 (£39.99)

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1998: Clean and smoky blackcurrant fruit on the nose here, which follows through on the palate as a smooth, elegant layer of fruit. Wonderful structure, with great tannins and acidity suggesting great ageing potential. 17+/20 (£29.99)

Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1998: What a fantastic nose - all cedar and cigar box, with pencil shavings and classically restrained blackcurrant fruit. Fine elegance on the palate, with firm and crisp tannins, great acidity and some power to the fruit. A drying, tannic finish. 17+/20 (Price unavailable)

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou (St Julien) 1998: Fantastic and focussed on the nose, with lots of firm yet elegant fruit. The palate has elegance, structure, with nicely extracted stony and mineral fruit. There are plenty of peppery tannins in the background. This will be a superb wine. 16.5+/20 (£44.99)

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1998: This has a more classic, elegant and restrained nose when compared with my memory of the 1996, the most recent young vintage I have tasted, which was in April. The palate, nevertheless, is soft and round, with a cassis character to the fruit. The soft richness is underpinned by a good structure of dry tannins and balanced acidity. 16.5+/20 (Price unavailable)

Burgundy

Orchys St Veran 2000: Clean and fruity on the nose, with some mineral notes. Similar flavour profile on the palate, although a touch green and leafy, with a soft and round texture. 14/20 (£8.29)

Olivier Ravier Beaujolais 2000: A fairly typical bubblegum and red fruit nose, although there is an almost chewy intensity of aroma with some mineral aspects. Quite light on the palate, with little tannin and balanced acidity. Red fruits with a slightly confected edge. Very soft and easy drinking. If you like Beaujolais, try this one. 14.5/20 (£4.99)

Domaine des Souchons Morgon 2000: There's a greater depth of flavour with this wine, although again it is fairly light on the palate. It is soft, with fresh acidity, and a meaty edge to the red fruits. A touch of tannin at the end. 14.5/20 (£8.49)

JM Brocard Chablis 2000: Plenty of fruit on the nose of this Chablis. It maintains some restraint on the palate though, which has some soft fruit combined with soft, unobtrusive acidity. 15/20 (£8.49)

JM Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin 1998: There is an edge of honeyed oak to the nose. Bright and vibrant on entry, with plenty of fruit, and just a mealy edge from a sensible application of oak. This is drinking well now, but would benefit from a year or two more in bottle. 16.5+/20 (£13.29

Bouchard Rully Les Thivaux 1999: Minerals on the nose here, with little evidence of fruit. Nevertheless on the palate there is some good minerally fruit hiding beneath a tight and angular structure. 14.5+/20 (Price unavailable)

Bouchard Pinor Noir 'La Vignée 2000: A horribly pale colour for any red wine. Quite good cherry fruit on the nose though. On the palate, there is some rounded slightly confected fruit and soft acidity. Terribly overpriced. 13.5/20 (£8.29)

Bouchard Gevrey-Chambertin 1997: This gives more hope with the colour although it's still quite a pale wine. Quite pleasant on the nose, with some leathery, gamey notes and a touch of rubber sitting beside some fruit. The palate, however, disappoints. There are some nice secondary characteristics developing but it is spoiled by unbalanced acidity. 12/20 (£17.99)

Bouchard Nuits-St-George Les Porrets St-Georges 1999: A good colour here. The nose has a more powerful, youthful nose, with red and black fruits over some background oak. Some big fruit on the palate, some extract and good acidity. This wine offers a little more hope than the previous bottles. 14.5+/20 (Price unavailable)

Bouchard Pommard 1997: A cherry red wine with a rubber, leather and undergrowth nose. Some sharp red fruit on the palate, with some tannins. A little in the way of secondary development. Already seems unbalanced, perhaps even falling apart. Terrible value for money. 13.5/20 (£20.99)

Rhone

Enclave des Papes Cuvée Speciale Côtes du Rhône 1999: Smoky red fruit with a touch of meat and bacon, a hint of blueberry, smoke and pepper. On the palate, clean and smooth fruit with hints of pepper, roasted herbs and ripe berry fruit. Soft, supple tannins and a lovely texture. Correct acidity. This has developed considerably since I first tasted it in August 2000. 16+/20 (£4.99)

Guigal Côtes du Rhône 1998: A very healthy colour. Sweet Syrah and Grenache raspberry fruit on the nose. Fat, rounded texture on the palate, with fairly classic chewy black fruits and herbs. Nice structure. 15.5/20 (£7.49)

Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet Côtes du Rhône 1998: Another wine which I have tasted before. This time it gives little on the nose, just the suggestion of ripe fruit. The palate shows a good structure, supporting flavours of char grilled bell peppers and black fruit. This is full of very primary, youthful flavours. It has style, and great potential. 16.5+/20 (£10.99)

Loire

Chateau de Fesles Rose d'Anjou 2000: An attractive pale pink, with strawberry fruit on the nose. Good body on the palate, quite dry, with correct acidity. Some fruit. 13.5/20 (£5.49)

Chateau de Fesles Anjou Rouge Vieilles Vignes 1998: Bell peppers and herbs on the nose here, with some chewy black fruits. Herbs, minerals and smoke in the background. On the palate, good fruit sits with a fair amount of tannin and correct acidity. Smooth texture. This is a good food wine. 15.5/20 (£5.99)

Chateau de Fesles Bonnezeaux 1998: A mealy and complex nose on this wine, with smoke, beeswax, fresh honeycomb, herb tea and minerals. The palate carries a layer of sweet honey and tea flavours, with a delightfully balanced sweetness and acidity. The overall feel is of elegance rather than luscious hedonism. Brilliant stuff. 17.5+/20 (£23.99 per 50cl)

The rest of Europe

Torres Atrium Merlot (Penedès) 2000: Pleasant, chocolatey black fruit on the nose. Sweet and round fruit on the palate, with nice tannins and a pleasant, nicely balanced structure. 15.5/20 (£6.99)

Blandy's Duke of Sussex Dry Sercial NV: Fairly typical Sercial on the nose. Dry palate, marmalade fruit. 14/20 (£9.49)

Blandy's Duke of Clarence NV: A richer toffee colour, and just a touch woody on the nose. Quite rich on the palate, nicely rounded, with spice and marmalade sweetness. Some coffee complexity on the finish. 15/20 (£9.49)

Blandy's Five Year Old Malmsey NV: A deep colour, with a nose full of toffee and marmalade aromas. On the palate, rich toffee flavours, with some good fruit and ginger spice. 15/20 (£11.99)

Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim 1988: A weak colour, slightly stinky nose here. Disappointing on the palate, with moderate alcohol. Pickling spice complexity, but lacks concentration. The second time I’ve tasted this vintage in the past few months, and my position is unchanged – this is a pale shadow of the 1987 and 1986. 13.5/20 (£22.99)

Dow’s Crusted Port: This has a much better colour. Figs, molasses and spice on the nose come through on the palate also. Fairly good balance of alcohol, acidity and weight. 14/20 (Price unavailable)

Warre’s LBV 1992: Lovely black fruit with a touch of orange oil and floral blossom on the nose. Great texture immediately apparent on the palate, with sweet and creamy fruit, wonderfully structured tannins, and elegant balance. Some toasty and spicy complexity comes through on the endpalate. A really elegant wine, and brilliant value for money. 17.5+/20 (£14.99)