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Burgundy from Nick Dobson

Nick Dobson is an independent wine retailer who has recently joined the team of merchants who sponsor The Winedoctor. Nick specialises in the wines of southern Burgundy, specifically the Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais, but has also branched out and now lists top producers from Germany, with more from Austria and Switzerland on the way. The wines of Nick Dobson are available through his website at www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk.

I recently tasted a selection of Beaujolais and Mâcon wines from Nick Dobson's list. The wines were tasted single-blind. Prices are correct at the time of press. I make no commission on purchases of wine from Nick Dobson. Prices from the Nick Dobson list are included, as are links to wine-searcher links, for transparency. (1/10/03)

Burgundy from Nick Dobson - Tasting Notes

Tasted in October 2003. Click for stockists:

Domaine des Chazelles & Domaine Sainte-Barbe

Domaine des Chazelles is run by Josette and Jean-Noel Chaland, Domaine Sainte-Barbe by their son Jean-Marie. The family own a number of vineyard plots around Viré-Clessé. The grapes are hand harvested and fermented without chaptalisation. The wines are popular, and have received positive reviews from French critic Michel Bettane in the Guide Hachette as well as picking up accolades in Burgundia d'Or, one of the better French regional tasting competitions. Of all the wines from Nick Dobson's Burgundy range that I have tasted these are undoubtedly my favourite.

Domaine des Chazelles Bourgogne Chardonnay 2001: Very pale. A simple, clean, quite neutral nose. Light on the palate, fresh, and balanced with very appropriate acidity. A good foil for seafood. 15/20 (£8.25)

Domaine des Chazelles Viré-Clessé La Forétille 2001: A little more colour again. An appealing, floral nose, with hints of acacia and minerals. On the palate it has balance, and elegance too. Still a little tight and structured. This is impressive stuff for the money which will be better in a year or so. 16/20 (£8.75)

Domaine des Chazelles Viré-Clessé Le Creusseromme 2001: A little more colour here. Quite different in style to La Forétille. This has a more open, welcoming nose. A little more flashy on the palate, fuller, rounder, with some evidence of oak on the texture. Honey and beeswax flavours. It remains balanced and fresh. Great value. 16/20 (£9.75)

Domaine des Chazelles Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes 2000: A rich, clean colour, very pure and shimmering. The nose offers a floral pureness like that of a Spring morning. The palate is quite simple in terms of flavour, but has a great texture and almost oily mouthfeel. It remains very pure and focused at all times. I think this wine will improve even further over the next year or so. 15.5+/20 (£10.55)

Domaine Sainte Barbe Viré-Clessé L'Epinet 2001: Lovely colour. This is wonderful stuff, with a nose of acacia, honey and beeswax. The palate is balanced, with a richness of flavour backed up by appropriate structure. Judicious use of oak here. Without doubt my favourite of the lot, and great value for money. 16/20 (£9.25)

The Chaland family make classically styled white Burgundy at very reasonable prices. I thoroughly recommend the above wines.

Domaine de la Madone

One of the best Fleurie domaines, la Madone is run by Maryse and Jean-Marc Despres. The vineyards are situated high on the slopes above the village itself.

Domaine de la Madone Fleurie 2001: An attractively coloured cherry-red wine. A feminine, perfumed nose, with sweet, smoky cherry fruit. The palate has a good texture, with plenty of sweet-spicy raspberry and cherry fruit. There's plenty of firm structure too. This wine will repay keeping for a year or two. 15.5/20 (£9.25)

Domaine de Champagnon

Domaine de Champagnon is now under the control of Patrick and Jean-Yves Champagnon, their father Louis having recently retired. The family own several old-vine plots in a number of Beaujolais Crus, and produce structured examples with judicious use of large, old oak barrels. Like Domaine des Chazelles, this is another of the regions producers to have picked up multiple accolades.

Domaine Champagnon Moulin a Vent 2001: A vibrant red-purple. A lovely nose to this wine, with juicy red-black summer berry fruits, with a sweet, herby, nettly edge. It is rounded and quite full on the palate, with a polyphenol influenced mouthfeel - evidence of those barrels. Strong acidity, balanced by good fruit. Some tannin in the finish. 15/20 (£9.45)

Domaine Champagnon Chenas 2001: Youthful but less vibrant colour, quite deep, with a nose of dense, earthy fruit. Well balanced palate, with firm tannins and correct acidity. Nicely balanced by some subtle summer fruits. 15/20 (£7.95)

Domaine Champagnon Fleurie 2001: A lovely colour, and a fresh, feminine, perfumed nose, laden with spicy, peppery cherry fruit. Quite full and structured on the palate, with balanced acidity. Fresh, vibrant, strawberry and cherry fruit. This is elegant, structured stuff. 15.5/20 (£9.25)

Domaine Bernard Santé

Bernard and Francois Santé produce a number of Beaujolais Crus from vineyard plots totalling 9 ha in all. The grapes are hand harvested and vinified using carbonic maceration, this being followed up by malolactic and some time in oak before domaine bottling the following Spring. His wines demonstrate how an attentive producer, who knows his terroir, can produce good wines even in a difficult vintage such as 2001.

Domaine Bernard Santé Moulin a Vent 2001: A good red-purple colour, which is quite deep. It has chewy, slightly meaty red fruits on the nose. A clean, rounded texture on the palate which has plenty of character, with a meaty, minerally edge to the red fruit flavours. It has soft tannins and good acidity, and this level of structure is appropriate. 15/20 (£8.95)

Domaine Bernard Santé Julienas 2001: A moderate depth of colour. Smoky, minerally red fruits on the nose, with a hint of richness. A depth of flavour on the palate. Lovely structure and vibrant fruit. Fresh and balanced, with a little power. 15.5+/20 (£8.25)

Domaine Bernard Santé Chenas 2001: A less intense colour. A good nose though, packed with juicy, leafy summer fruits. Quite nicely rounded on the palate, with balanced structure behind a wealth of vibrant raspberry and strawberry fruit, with a sweet edge. 16/20 (£7.95)

The wines of Bernard Santé are certainly the strongest Beaujolais wines here.