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Beaujolais from Nick Dobson

Nick Dobson BeaujolaisMy faith in Beaujolais has been restored.

This is thanks to wine merchant Nick Dobson, who specialises in the wines of the Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais (and now Germany and Austria too). Nick furnished me with some samples which, ranging from barrel-matured Beaujolais to meaty Morgon, were six examples of serious Beaujolais from clearly dedicated winemakers.

These wines, and many others, may be purchased from Nick's information-packed website, www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk. (2/4/03)

Beaujolais from Nick Dobson - Tasting Notes

Tasted in April 2003. Click for stockists:

Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais-Villages Le Perreon 2000: Good depth of colour, red garnet still with a purple tinge at the rim. Layers of fruit on the nose; strawberries, blackberries and more, and a fudgy, spicy edge. These nuances are derived from a period of maturation in barrel, as is the oily, polyphenol mouthfeel. Smoke-edged berry fruit, a low level of dry tannins and correct acidity. Nice balance. Easy drinking with a a touch of style. 15/20

Domaine Chatelus Beaujolais Cuvée Terroir 2001: Paler red hue. Nice aromas of red berry fruits and cherries on the nose, with a touch of liquorice. The palate has a light and fruity character, with strawberry and redcurrant fruits. There is an oily edge to the mouthfeel, perhaps barrel-derived, with chalky, lemony acidity. 14.5/20

Vincent Lacondemine Beaujolais-Villages Les Larmoises 2001: Lacondemine has made the decision to use a fat, Burgundian bottle, finished off with an elegant white label, for this wine. Tasting it, it's not hard to see why. Dark, glossy garnet red hue. There are captivating aromas on the nose, which is full of mushrooms, ripe berry fruits and even a touch of dark chocolate. Fairly rich on the palate, with berry fruit flavours and an almost silky mouthfeel. Nicely poised. This is an impressive effort. 16.5/20

Domaine Fernand Gravallon Morgon Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2001: Dark, garnet red, well-coloured. Lovely perfume on the nose, with black cherries and other black fruits, and a touch of meaty smoke. Good weight in the mouth, with balance and a medium body, but with lovely fresh fruit. A savoury midpalate, which has richness and structure. There's a creamy, old vines influenced edge to the mouthfeel. 16.5/20

Domaine des Champs Grilles Saint-Amour 2001: A moderate intensity of hue. Some acidic fruits on the nose, with a perfumed edge. Pleasant weight on the palate, a touch lighter than the other Cru wines here. Quite feminine, acidic, with moderate fruit. 15/20

Domaine Bernard Santé Chenas 2000: A wonderful colour, glossy and dark, yet vibrant. What a nose! Perfumed, filled with vibrant black fruits, but elegant and captivating. Lovely texture and weight apparent on the forepalate, and a finely poised, almost racy midpalate. Delightfully savoury, mouth-watering fruit and acidity, and fine tannins. Just a hint of oak in the background, although not overdone. This is classy stuff. 16.5/20

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