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Beaujolais from Nick Dobson
My faith in Beaujolais has been restored.
This is thanks to wine merchant Nick Dobson, who specialises in the wines of the Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais (and now Germany and Austria too). Nick furnished me with some samples which, ranging from barrel-matured Beaujolais to meaty Morgon, were six examples of serious Beaujolais from clearly dedicated winemakers.
These wines, and many others, may be purchased from Nick's information-packed website, www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk. (2/4/03)
Beaujolais from Nick Dobson - Tasting Notes
Tasted in April 2003. Click
for
stockists:
Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais-Villages Le Perreon 2000:
Good depth of colour, red garnet still with a purple tinge at the rim. Layers
of fruit on the nose; strawberries, blackberries and more, and a fudgy, spicy
edge. These nuances are derived from a period of maturation in barrel, as is
the oily, polyphenol mouthfeel. Smoke-edged berry fruit, a low level of dry
tannins and correct acidity. Nice balance. Easy drinking with a a touch of
style. 15/20
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Domaine Chatelus Beaujolais Cuvée Terroir 2001: Paler red hue. Nice aromas of red berry fruits
and cherries on the nose, with a touch of liquorice. The palate has a light and
fruity character, with strawberry and redcurrant fruits. There is an oily edge
to the mouthfeel, perhaps barrel-derived, with chalky, lemony acidity. 14.5/20
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Vincent Lacondemine Beaujolais-Villages Les Larmoises 2001: Lacondemine has made the decision to use a fat, Burgundian bottle, finished
off with an elegant white label, for this wine. Tasting it, it's not hard to
see why. Dark, glossy garnet red hue. There are captivating aromas on the nose,
which is full of mushrooms, ripe berry fruits and even a touch of dark
chocolate. Fairly rich on the palate, with berry fruit flavours and an almost
silky mouthfeel. Nicely poised. This is an impressive effort. 16.5/20
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Domaine Fernand Gravallon Morgon Cuvée
Vieilles Vignes 2001: Dark, garnet red, well-coloured. Lovely perfume on the
nose, with black cherries and other black fruits, and a touch of meaty smoke. Good weight
in the mouth, with balance and a medium body, but with lovely fresh fruit. A savoury midpalate, which has
richness and structure. There's a creamy, old vines influenced edge to the mouthfeel.
16.5/20
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Domaine des Champs Grilles Saint-Amour 2001: A moderate intensity of hue. Some
acidic fruits on the nose, with a perfumed edge. Pleasant weight on the palate, a touch lighter
than the other Cru wines here. Quite feminine, acidic, with moderate fruit.
15/20
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Domaine Bernard Santé Chenas 2000: A
wonderful colour, glossy and dark, yet vibrant. What a nose! Perfumed, filled
with vibrant black fruits, but elegant and captivating. Lovely texture and
weight apparent on the forepalate, and a finely poised, almost racy midpalate.
Delightfully savoury, mouth-watering fruit and acidity, and fine tannins. Just a
hint of oak in the background, although not overdone. This is classy stuff.
16.5/20
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