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Austrian Wines from Nick Dobson

Nick Dobson began his business with Beaujolais, if I remember correctly, a few years ago. He quickly expanded to include wines from Germany and Austria, too, and this latter country has become a very strong feature of the Nick Dobson portfolio. Whereas many merchants seem to stick with the rather safe regions of Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal, Nick has probed Austria rather deeper, bringing an eclectic array of red and sweet wines, as well as the more commonly encountered white wines, into the UK. Watch out for regions such as Carnuntum and Thermenregion, both south of Vienna; if this tasting is anything to go on, they offer plenty of potential. For the full list, visit Nick's site at www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk. Prices included here relate to Nick Dobson Wines. I have also included relevant wine-searcher links. (18/5/06)

Austrian Wines from Nick Dobson - Tasting Notes

The following wines were tasted in May 2006. Click to locate stockists:

Josef Lentsch Pinot Gris Dankbarkeit (Burgenland) 2003: An apple-gold hue to this wine, which is very expressive on the nose, showing notes of vanilla and perhaps some oak, with grippy tropical fruit edged with smoking butter. Expansive, sweetly ripe palate, with piles of grip which lends a welcome structure, and soft acidity which only reflects the vintage. This makes for a short and unfocussed finish. Its lacking in freshness and balance, like many white wines from the 2003 vintage in Europe. But it has an appealing grip. Good. 15.5/20 (£12.95)

Netzl Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt Selection (Carnuntum) 2004: The Rubin Carnuntem designation informs that this wine, from the Carnuntum region, is not only made from indigenous varieties - in this case Zweigelt, although Blaufränkisch also qualifies - but has also been passed by a regional tasting jury. It's a fairly dark, concentrated, and certainly youthful colour. The nose presents a blast of cherry and blackcurrant leaf, with a little pepper. A really nice, fresh presence on the palate, with sharp, crisp acidity, and a certain amount of juicy plum fruit. A little extract, and a little plumpness to the texture, makes this delicious, slightly sophisticated summer drink. Very good. 16.5/20 (£13.95)

Netzl Edles Tal Zweigelt Merlot (Carnuntum) 2003: This is another wine showing appealing red-purple vivacity on inspection, and a welcoming presence of slightly smoky, slightly stony plum fruit on the nose. The palate has a very juicy and appealing character, delicately textured, fresh with very correct, subtle acidity balancing out a seamless presence of fruit with some grippy, charred tannins. Delightfully elegant on the palate. Very approachable and with lovely appeal. For drinking now and in the short-term. Very good. 17/20 (£16)

Sattler St Laurent Reserve (Neusiedlersee) 2003: An attractive, vibrant, cherry red-purple hue on inspection, this wine offers notes of cherry fruit and juniper on the nose, with a complex streak of furry, feral, animalistic aroma in the background. I find this very appealing. On the palate, it impresses with a combination of full, velvety texture with plenty of ripe, blackcurrant and cherry flavours reflecting the warmth of the vintage. Lots of ripe, peppery tannins, well hidden by the wealth of texture and fruit, and fair acidity too. Big, rich, creamy and nicely structured, with a grippy but mouth-coating finish. Has some length too. A crowd-pleaser, for sure. For drinking now and in the short-term, although I suspect it may cellar well. 17/20 (£13.95)

Sattler Zweigelt Reserve (Neusiedlersee) 2003: A dark and glossy wine, with an attractive dark purple hue, just tinged with a vibrant red rim. Again, the nose speaks of the vintage, as the pure, explosive cassis fruit lies with a more brooding, smoky, dense and chewy blueberry character. Full, creamy and ripe, with fairly low acidity lending a plump and approachable mouthfeel to this wine. Ripe tannic structure, giving a sense of focus on the palate, although only really showing any dominance on the finish. Really very enjoyable; the Sattler style, ripe wines full of fruit and intended for conspicuous enjoyment, really suit this vintage. This is another crowd-pleaser. Very good indeed. 17/20 (£13.95)

Fischer Premium Cabernet Merlot (Thermenregion) 2003: A very dark colour, almost opaque, with a very thin pink rim. The nose is saturated with dark, sweet, macerated fruit, in an obviously intense style, with notes of soy sauce and a subtle nuance of volatile rubber. Full and very structured palate, with firm and ripe tannins immediately apparent behind the wealth of rich, dark, chocolate-tinged black summer fruits. Not overblown, nicely grippy and peppery, with a firmness to the sweet texture, it carries its 14% ABV very well. Lovely extract just oozes across the palate. Another super, delightfully drinkable, and well structured wine which shows that it isn't just the classic Austrian regions of Wachau, Kremstal and the like that have something to offer. For short-term cellaring, or drink now. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (£17.95, the 2002 is listed)

Fischer Premium Merlot (Thermenregion) 2003: A vibrant yet dark hue, again with a thin rim of raspberry pink. Quite a gorgeous, captivating nose, still showing some smoky oak, but with plentiful plummy fruit, and notes of cedar, vanilla and green peppercorn. An appealing, creamy entry, although the wine maintains a slightly reserved, lean stance across the midpalate and finish. Plenty of good flavour, like that on the nose, and beneath it all a slightly stark, naked structure which really rounds on the finish. The tannins are quite prominent here, and there is an attractive length. Notes of coffee and dark chocolate dance in and out on the palate, giving a rich and complex feel to the wine. This is very good, in fact I find it quite captivating, and it clearly shows potential for the cellar over a few years. 18+/20 (£19.95)

Josef Lentsch Trockenbeerenauslese Dankbarkeit (Neusiedlersee) 2001: A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, this wine has a burnished orange gold hue, with a liquorous appearance as this wine is poured into the glass. Rich aromas, burnt barley sugar, rather lifted slightly volatile honey character. Quite fresh on entry, although the palate is quickly overwhelmed by this wine's rich, creamy, honeyed, liquorous consistency. There is moderate acidity, but overall it is the roasted, oily, baked orange fruit and notes of earth that characterise the palate. Not the freshest of styles, but will appeal to many I think. Good. 15.5/20 (£22.95)