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The Wines of Moldova: Four from Cricova

Until recently my experience of the wines of Moldova was limited to just one taste of 1975 Negru de Purkar, which was very well received when tasted alongside a line-up of Bordeaux from the same vintage. Probably imported into the UK following the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, this wine hinted at a vinous heritage that had remained hidden behind the iron curtain for too long. A recent encounter with four wines from Cricova, one of the country's largest wine estates, brought back memories of this tasting seven years ago, but also served to expand my knowledge of the country's wine, albeit by a minuscule amount.

Secreted between Romania and Ukraine, close to the Black Sea in south-eastern Europe, Moldova's recent history has been a tumultuous one. Although there is archaeological evidence for active viticulture and winemaking, in the shape of fossilised grape seeds and numerous amphorae, such activities were suppressed when the region came under the influence of the Ottoman Empire. Their rule ended in the early 19th Century, when Russia gained control of much of the region with the Treaty of Bucharest, signed in 1812, although the country still has a Turkish presence in the form of the Gagauz Minority. Thereafter under increasing Russian control viticulture was again encouraged, and this continued into the 20th Century, during which the state first joined Romania in union, but was then annexed by the expanding Soviet Union. Since emerging from such rule in 1991 the country, including the Gagauz Minority Region and the unrecognised breakaway republic of Transnistria, shows much vinous promise. Although under Soviet rule there was the expected consolidation into state farms, which today still account for the majority of the vineyards, viticulture was encouraged. The vineyards are concentrated in the south of the country; here the climate is favourable, being further south than many Russian vineyards. And although there are many unfamiliar indigenous and other unusual varieties including Plavai and Sereksia, there are also huge swathes of international varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, such plantings apparently having been encouraged by the ruling tsars during the 19th Century.

Clearly Moldova has a great vinous heritage and this is reflected in the grandeur of some of the oldest producers, led by Mileştii Mici in the town of the same name, close to Chişinău. This estate sits atop a labyrinth of underground cellars which boasts more than 250 kilometres of corridors, making it probably the world's largest wine cellar. And within the cellar there are more than two million bottles of locally produced wine, dating back to the early vintages of the 20th Century. Impressive though this is, modern-day Moldovan viticulteurs must concern themselves with more pressing matters; attending to their vineyards, modernisation in the cellar, and selling their wines in a hugely competitive market. To this end I recently tasted four wines from Cricova, perhaps one of the largest Moldavian estates (and also in possession of some gigantic cellars), a producer best known for sparkling wine production but with 280 hectares of vines at their disposal, led by Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and more, it is perhaps not surprising that they produce a range of wines, both dry and sweet. I was pleased to be able to taste these wines, as they certainly expanded my vinous horizons a little further, beyond the boundaries of my comfort zone which largely centres on France and other classic European regions. Having acknowledged Moldova's fine heritage, its turbulent history and its recent suppression under communist rule, however, it would seem from these wines that the country's potential has yet to be fully realised. I look forward to seeing more from this country though, and with investment and expertise I think Moldova may offer great things.

The wines tasted here are available from Exquisite Wine, an online merchant based in the UK specialising in the wines of Moldova, starting with Cricova. I have included Exquisite's prices in brackets, but as usual also links through to wine-searcher. Disclosure: I have no association or business dealings with Exquisite Wine. (15/1/09)

The Wines of Moldova: Four from Cricova - Tasting Notes

Tasted in January 2009. Click for stockists.

Cricova Prestige Chardonnay Sec Alb (Cricova) 2005: This is a clean and pale wine, with a gentle nose, of stony minerals and with a trace of banana fruit. It has a nice substance on the palate, well countered by rather firm acidity and a bitter grip. This character persists through to the finish, which is well defined and fresh if a touch sharp. Some nice points here, but it has a rather rustic feel to the structure. A firm, robust and characterful wine, with plenty of lemony, burnt nut fruit. On the finish it is the acidity that dominates. 13.5/20 (£7.99)

Cricova Prestige Cabernet Sauvignon Roşu Sec (Cricova) 2005: This wine certainly needs an hour or so in a decanter to open up. On inspection it has quite a clean and youthful hue, and also some attractive elements on the nose, in particular a little stony, violet perfumed edge over the dark fruits. The palate shows just a little rounded extract on entry, before it settles back into a fairly lean palate with some overt structure. This is provided by a seam of tannins which are fairly unobtrusive, but also by some fairly prominent acidity which tends to dominate on the palate. This is particularly true towards the finish, which is incisively sharp. This is a very dry style, with just 3 g/l residual sugar; it would be interesting to see some data on the acidity level. 13.5/20 (£7.99)

Cricova Vin de Colectie Codru Rosu Sec (Cricova) 1995: A blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot, aged in French oak for five years before bottling, and sealed under cork and a wax capsule. A nice red pigment here, not a very dense wine but certainly not looking tired, although there is evident maturity especially at the rim. Rather dusty fruit on the nose, with a very dry, woody and weedy character, mixed with an organic, barnyard aroma. A lean entry, and a touch more flesh on the midpalate. Sweet and slightly stewed fruit here. Soft acidity, nicely textured although dry, lean and short at the finish, and with flavours that mirror the nose. Exposure to air brought a little more harmony. 14/20 (£14.19)

Cricova Vin de Colectie Gratiesti (Cricova) 1990: Made from 100% Rkatsiteli, aged in French oak for five years before bottling, and sealed under cork and a wax capsule. This has a burnished, coppery hue in the glass, a rich orange-gold with shimmering notes of red. The nose clearly declares an oxidative style, with a woody baked fruit and baked earth character dominating, along with the aromas of nuts and raisins. The palate begins in a rich, fleshy style, before it reveals smoky, oxidative flavours mixed with the woody, nutty fruit. This is reminiscent of a Tokay more than any other style, so fans of that Hungarian dessert wine may find this of particular interest, especially with the advantage of ready maturity. For me, I find the oxidised style too dominant. 14.5/20 (£17.42)