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Emilio Lustau Tasting with Luncheon

The firm that was to become Emilio Lustau was founded in 1896 by Don José Ruiz-Berdejo y Veyan, an Almacenista who hailed from Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza. From these humble origins grew the Lustau business, today one of Spain's most respected producers of Sherry. Today the firm maintains close ties with local Almacenistas, which is fitting in view of its origins.

Menu Almacenistas, or 'stockholders', are essentially small businesses involved in the production of sherry, of limited quantity - often just a few butts - but often of excellent quality. Emilio Lustau recognised that the inclusion of such small, fine lots of Sherry in a large volume brand would simply be to lose them, and as a consequence Lustau bottles the produce of a number of local Almacenistas individually. Thus many of Lustau's bottlings are, in fact, very fine, small volume bottlings. The labels on Almacenista wines always declare the number of butts in the solera. Hence a label may display the numbers 1/16, indicating that the wine came from a solera of just 16 butts. The total stocks of some Almacenistas amounts to just ten butts - if only Sherry were more popular these would no doubt be 'cult' wines!

I recently attended a tasting of Emilio Lustau Sherry hosted at Don Pepe, a local Spanish restaurant with a good reputation which I have frequented before. The tasting was lead by Michael Hall, Lustau's UK director, and was accompanied by an extremely good luncheon of tapas followed by Cazuelo de Pollo. We tasted some solera wines, together with some from Almacenistas Jurado and Zamorano. This former Almacenista is a significant one, holding 2500 butts of wine, the sole source of Manzanilla for Lustau, whereas Zamorano is considerably smaller. For more on Emilio Lustau, include profiles of the Almacenistas and more tasting notes, see my Emilio Lustau profile. (25/9/02)

Emilio Lustau Sherry - Tasting Notes

Tasted in September 2002. Click to locate stockists:

Lustau Puerto Fino: A very pale colour, as Fino is protected from the effects of oxidation by the mat of flor that floats on the surface of the wine. Good flor character on the nose, with some tangy mineral and cashew nut character. Seems quite elegant. On the palate, rounded, very dry and very clean. Good flor, tangy and a spicy note on the midpalate which persists through the finish. 17.5/20

Lustau Almacenista Manzanilla Pasada de Sanlúcar 1/80 Jurado: This has a lemon-gold colour, a hue slightly deeper than that of the Fino. Accordingly it has a richer, fuller nose, which is more obviously nutty. The palate is big, quite nutty, with a citrus tang. It is still very dry despite the rich, full character. Again, this wine also has prominent spicy acidity on the midpalate. 16/20

Lustau Almacenista Manzanilla Amontillada de Sanlúcar 1/21 Jurado: An amber-gold caramel colour. A wonderful nose, full of coffee, toffee and figs, with a burnt character, and yet a fresh lift. Despite this initial promise the wine is relatively light on the palate, clean with strong acidity. Nicely rounded, and I sense a hint of the flor that once graced this wine. 16/20

Lustau Palo Cortado: A similar amber-gold hue, just slightly deeper, richer and darker. This wine is much more shy on the nose. There are some notes of marmalade, fig and toffee in the background. The palate, however, is pleasing - open and mouthfilling, full and rounded. Plenty of flavour mirroring those aromas found on the nose. Great spice and good acidity. 16.5/20

Lustau Almacenista Oloroso de Jerez 1/16 Zamorano: A rich, amber-gold wine. A very expressive nose, very big, full of fig, orange and marmalade sweetness. Full and rounded on the palate, a touch sweeter than the previous wines. Figs and nuts on the palate. Mouth filling, and balanced. 16/20

Lustau Old East India Solera Reserva: Wow - what a colour. With the help of some background light this initially black-looking wine displays gold, amber, red and caramel hues all intertwined. A rich nose, with sweet, scented molasses, and yet you sense this will have balance rather than sticky sweetness. This is indeed the case - the palate has great balance, with acidity, alcohol and sweet molasses fruit all playing a part. Lovely. 18/20

Lustau Pedro Ximénez Solera Reserva: A deep, luscious golden-brown wine. A lovely nose, full of Christmas cake, toffee, treacle and raisin aromas. Plainly a sweet and rich wine. On the palate this is confirmed, and there is a wonderful attack of rich, viscous sweetness, carrying toffee, fig, raisin, caramel and walnut flavours. Unfortunately the wine lacks acidity - producing a cloying mouthfeel, rather than the fresh, acidic cleansing I would hope for. Consequently I can't give this the excellent rating that it would otherwise deserve. 17.5/20