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Languedoc-Roussillon from LM Wines Online
LM
Wines Online is a partnership between sommelier Laurent Saint-Dizier, based in
Languedoc-Roussillon, and a UK importer. I have already covered much of the LM
Wines
portfolio, as it presented in the UK, with my assessment of their
Vin de Pays wines. In this second look at their
wines, I focus on those from the Coteaux du Languedoc, the other
appellations of Languedoc and also Roussillon.
The standard of wines from the vin de pays level was good, and this continued here. For sure, there were one or two wines that disappointed, but equally there were those that really impressed. The wines from Domaine Haut-Blanville and Domaine de la Madura are two such wines; ripe, textured and rich in flavour reflecting the region, these are good examples of what the southern vineyards should be churning out in abundance.
All the wines listed were available from LM Wines Online, although the team have since changed direction and now sell only to the trade. (13/4/06)
Languedoc Roussillon - Tasting Notes
These wines were tasted in April 2006. I have included prices from
LM Wines Online, or click
for
all Wine-Searcher stockists:
Domaine Laurens Crémant de Limoux Clos des Demoiselles Tête de Cuvée Blanc
de Blancs 2002: An attractive pale hue, with a rather fat bead. White fruits
on the nose, with the suggestion of a little green herb, and little nuances of
honeycomb toffee. Quite a full, obvious palate, with a very firm mousse and
sharp acidity. Rather green and herbaceous, with a little texture and weight
showing as the wine warms. Good enough. 14.5/20 (£10.99)
Domaine Ollier Taillefer Coteaux du Languedoc 'Allegro' 2004: A blend
of equal portions of Vermentino and Rousanne. Quite a pale, lemon gold hue here.
The nose has some subtle stone fruit, peach and pear character, with nuances of
thyme, but it is all rather subdued and inexpressive. Nice weight and presence
on the palate, but again subtle character. Some herb-tinged stone fruit and
rather firm alcohol. This is rather rustic in style, and would benefit from
greater concentration on the palate. 14/20 (£8.85)
Cave L'Etoile Collioure Blanc 2004: A blend of Grenache Blanc and Grenache
Gris (45% each), the remainder Vermentino and Maccabeu. This is another pale,
lemon-gold wine. Here we have a smoky, buttery nose belying the use of fairly
new oak somewhere (it has been aged in barrel on the lees for six months).
Similar character on the palate, but again rather lean, and short on
concentration and texture. Some nice lemony fruit, with good acidity, although
these tend to give a rather sharp mouthfeel. 13.5/20 (£8.99)
Villa Serra Caunes Minervois 2002: An appealing red purple hue from
this blend, helpfully divulged on the back label, of 30% each Grenache and
Carignan, 20% each Mourvèdre and Cinsaut. The nose takes a little while to open
out, yielding subtly smoky raspberry and cherry fruits. Medium bodied, nicely
composed on entry, a little short on texture and weight through the midpalate,
but quite elegantly poised. Appealingly bitter, smouldering ember character,
then a flourish of black pepper and raspberry-laced acidity at the finish.
Sharp, refreshing character here, with a lingering spice. Good. 16/20 (£10.45)
Domaine Ollier Taillefer Faugères Les Collines 2004: A blend of 35%
each Carignan and Grenache, with 25% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre. Deep, brooding
colour. Lots of juicy fruit on the nose, with sweet and smoky baked cherry
character, with a little herby garrigue element. Similarly juicy style on the
palate, but fresh with crisp acidity alongside a fine, slightly creamy, rounded
mouthfeel. Plenty of baked fruit character. Firm, characterful, mouth-watering
finish. Good, for current drinking. 16/20 (£7.45)
Domaine St Michel les Clauses Corbières Chorus 2000: Low yields here,
just 25 hl/ha, probably necessary when one considers this is 80% Carignan, with
the balance equal parts Syrah and Grenache. This has a dark colour, but shows
some bricky maturity. A very flashy nose, full of coconut and vanilla spice,
liquorice and leather; there is much here that is not grape-derived, but there
are appealing notes of herbs, pepper and bay leaf too. Full, spicy, lots of
character on the palate, although there is plenty of evident oak here too.
Smooth, creamy texture, fresh acidity, and rather robust underneath. Good; would
be popular with those who seek out traditional Rioja, I think. 16.5/20 (£14.95)
Mas du Novi Coteaux du Languedoc Prestigi 2002: A blend of Syrah
(30%), Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre (10%), aged in ex-Bordeaux barrels for one
year. A dark, rather mature hue, especially considering this is only three years
old. The nose tells why this is so; lots of wood derived character here, coconut
and vanilla, dark and chewy liquorice and notes of sweet cough-candy. Medium
bodied, with a sweet cherry candy profile, although it shows plenty of
structure. There are ripe tannins with very firm acidity. Just a hint of
creaminess to the texture, but otherwise this is a little flat. Short finish.
This may have been better without so much oak. 15/20 (£8.99)
Domaine de la Tour Penedesses Coteaux du Languedoc Cuvée Antique 2001:
An unfined and unfiltered cuvée based on Grenache (65%), with 5% Syrah, 5%
Mourvèdre and a hotch-potch of varieties making up the balance. Deep colour.
Unfortunately the nose reveals this to be oxidised. This may just
be a bad bottle, of course. No score. (£8.95)
Domaine Haut-Blanville Coteaux du Languedoc 'Bastide des Charmes' 2002:
A really ripe, deep, purple-black hue. A gorgeous nose, quite seductive,
full of black forest fruits, brambles, black pepper, baked cherry, charcoal and
beetroot. Full, rich and creamy on the palate, with a burnt, grippy, charcoal
edge to it. Nice concentration, and lovely ripe tannins riding through to the
finish, which has a grippy character. Good length too. This is certainly one of
the best wines here. Very good indeed. 17/20 (£9.45)
Domaine de la Madura St Chinian 'Grand Vin' 2001: A Mourvèdre
dominated cuvee, with Bandol's grape making up 54% of the balance, accompanied
by 33% Syrah, 9% Grenache and 4% Carignan. Unfined and unfiltered, accounting
for the crust of sediment running up the bottle. A very pure,
deep colour with a dusty, dusky red rim. This has smoky cherry fruit on the
nose, but is otherwise rather reticent and closed down I think. Fine weight on
entry, balanced but well rounded and a little creamy, becoming a touch more firm
and spicy through the midpalate. A little grip showing here too. Firm cherry
fruit, with a fine tannic backbone that provides that masculine finish. This is
very good, and clearly one for the cellar in preference to drinking now.
17+/20 (£13.75)
Cave L'Etoile Collioure 2003: A blend of 60%
Grenache Noir, 10% Carignan, 25% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, this wine has a
quite transparent cherry red hue. Slightly smoky, quite sweet, somewhat
confected cherry fruit on the nose. It seems a little hot too, with a suggestion
that there might be unbalanced alcohol. Dry palate, with the appealing cherry
fruit of Grenache, but a little lean in fact, although
with a pleasing, silky texture. Underneath it though, rather stark tannins. This
is appealing, in a very rustic way; it certainly reflects the vintage
characteristics. For current drinking. 15/20 (£8.99)
Domaine Gaujal Vigneron Vendanges Extrêmes 2001: A fascinating wine
from Pinet, a region more associated with bracing whites than sweet wines. This
is late harvest, the Picpoul being picked one month late, with
mutage as well, the label helpfully
declaring the ABV to be 14% + 4%. It has a rich, orange-golden hue, and a very
expressive nose of apricots, honeycomb, and sweet, golden fruits. Rich and
voluptuous on the palate, with a creamy and seductive nature, this is a
hedonistic orange and marmalade-tinged cuvée. It has low acidity, but is very
drinkable despite that, and hides its ABV well. This is very good. 16.5/20
(£12.95)
Domaine Barroubio Muscat de St Jean de Minervois 2004: A very pale
golden hue, and a very expressive nose, musky and aromatic, with sweet and
grapey notes of tangerines and flowers. Rich and characterful on the palate,
full of organic blossom and fruit, quite a big, grippy style, and yet nicely
balanced too, with nice notes of freshness. A prime example of fortified Muscat.
Very good indeed. 17/20 (£10.95)
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