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Liberty Wines Tasting 2011 - Part 2

Liberty Wines 2011

Notes from a 2011
Liberty Wines tasting:

Part 1: White Wines

Part 2: Red Wines

I continue here with my notes on the wines from the 2011 Liberty tasting, now moving onto the red wines. As usual this part of the tasting is rich in the wines of Italy, especially the classic DOCGs of Tuscany and Piedmont. And the quality was very high too, with a good number of delicious, savoury wines.

Before I reached these regions though there were a couple of wines from Veneto (actually many more than just a 'couple' but with more than 270 wines on offer I wasn't going to taste everything) and one of these really impressed. I'm not generally a fan of Amarone; some wines have really impressed me in the past, but the style is at odds with the fresher and brighter character that I enjoy in wine today. So it was a surprise to find such a delicious example from Alpha Zeta; but then it isn't a typical Amarone I suppose, showing fine savoury depth and concentration without the sweetness or rocket-fuel texture that some Amarones possess.

From Piedmont I found the two wines from Aldo Conterno gave the most pleasure, although that isn't exactly a ground-breaking discovery of course. Even with my limited knowledge of Barolo and its complex panoply of vineyards and estates, the quality of these wines shouts out loud. Having said that, I was also quite taken with the Barbaresco from Bruno Rocca, as well as the Sperino Lessona, a region of Piedmont with which I am entirely unfamiliar.

As for Tuscany, here there was a litany of wines from many famous estates; the quality was high, but I have noticed that the prices are too. It is a long time since I first got to grips with the wines of Tuscany admittedly, but these seem much more pricy than I recall. The upwards spiralling of wine prices is a global phenomenon of course, and Italy - with all its famous and desirable wines - is no exception. There are many wines I could focus on here, but I thought the Isole e Olena Cepparello, the Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva from Fontodi and the Poggio san Polo Brunello di Montalcino to be particularly good.

With my notes below I have included suggested retail prices which are provided by Liberty Wines, as well as wine-searcher links to assist in tracking down these wines, although obviously Liberty Wine should be able to help if they prove difficult to locate. I should point out I have no commercial relationship with Liberty Wines. (11/3/11)

Tasting Notes - Red Wines

Tasted in February 2011. Click to locate stockists.

France: Burgundy

Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Plateaux 2007: Rather a smoky, burnt-cherry style to the fruit on the nose here, with a little touch of rubber coming through as well. The palate shows a little deficiency in substance at first, before the flavours come through to match the aromatic characters noted above. A somewhat peppery acidity in the midpalate, with a rather solid feel to the lightly stewed fruit that sits around it. It has vigour on its side once the acid kicks in, but I don't find the fruit profile that appealing. 13/20 (£44.99)

Portugal

Quinta da Romaneira Douro Tinto 2005: Certainly a wine of character on the nose here, the fruit showing a wild and rather peculiar tang, with a sweet but subtle blackness countered by notes of peach skin and flower petals, and also just the barest hint of game. The palate is elegant and rather supple, showing a very well judged layer of fruit combined with supple tannins and fresh, gentle acidity. It has an elegant feel overall, very fresh and detached with its bright, floral acid backbone, with just some grip coming in towards the end. Very attractive. 17/20 (£15.99)

Italy: Veneto

Alpha Zeta 'R' Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2009: Rather a cherry fruit character here, although with a slightly sweet, cola-tinged edge to it as well as a herby freshness. Certainly not what I was expecting on the nose. The palate has more appeal than I was led to expect showing a very fresh and elegant character at the start, although this does give way to a less fresh style of fruit through the middle. It does have some appealing elements, a very fresh composition, some floral elegance to, but it is just that confected cola sweetness that grates. 13.5/20 (£10.99)

Alpha Zeta 'A' Amarone 2007: Not your typical Amarone nose here, rather brighter than the sweet, dense and macerated cherry fruit that you usually get. The fruit here has a very well described character, expressive and yet fresh and with a suggestion of crunchy-crystalline edge. Taken as it is rather than in an Amarone context, it is actually very appealing. On the palate it is supple and full of savoury cherry fruit, and yet it isn't overly rich, dense or sweet. Instead it focuses on concentration without flab or texture. Lovely roasted herb elements to it, with a fine balance of presence, savoury flavour and polish. And in the end, a really fine grip. This is delicious. 18/20 (£26.99)

Italy: Piedmont

GD Vajra Barolo Le Albe 2006: A pale hue with a dusty rim. On the nose a soft layer of cherry fruit, quite diffuse and gentle in style, cut with elements of oyster shell as well as a musky perfume reminiscent of spicy, cedary wood. A lean start on the palate, softening a little and opening up in the midpalate, where it shows a reserved and masculine layer of fruit along with a firm, spicy, tannic core. This seems to achieve an attractive balance on the palate right now, although it never loses that upright, slightly austere, masculine character. Big, long, tannic finish. Good wine. 16.5/20 (£34.99)

Aldo Conterno Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot 2006: A good depth of colour here, and still with a rather youthful appearance right out to the rim despite this already having four years behind it. In keeping with the deeper colour the nose also appears to have a greater depth of fruit, a savoury and lightly perfumed cherry character to the fore. The palate has substance, texture and also freshness, the whole of the wine very well judged and balanced, with a more direct freshness and bite coming through in the middle to lift the wine up. Attractive flourish of cherry fruit on the finish, followed by a length of tobacco and tannin. I find this very appealing. 17.5/20 (£44.99)

Aldo Conterno Barolo 2006: Very withdrawn on the nose especially compared to the Langhe Nebbiolo of the same vintage that preceded it, this only offers up a rather thin suggestion of cherry fruit with little nuances of game and tobacco alongside. The palate follows on in the same vein, showing a rather elegant disposition although underpinned by finely shaped tannins. There is grip, plentiful acidity and even a hint of chewiness to it, but what it isn't revealing at present is much of the flavour complexity that must be locked away inside. An intriguing wine, although one that is certainly difficult to judge decisively at present. 17-18/20 (£72.99)

Massolino Barolo 2006: Less density here, and a little dusty fade apparent at the rim. A slightly high-toned nose, the fruit showing a gently lifted redcurrant edge, perfumed and slightly chalky. The texture on the palate is a little bit too smooth and velvety to start, before showing more meat and depth in the midpalate that certainly conveys more promise to me. An attractive wine that shows a good tannic grip towards the finish and into the length. Could develop very nicely in the cellar. 16.5/20 (£41.99)

Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabaja 2007: The nose to this wine, which is showing some rather dusty maturity on inspection, certainly has a rather evolved character, with a high-toned perfume alongside rather attractive elements of hung wildfowl, chalky cherry and just the barest hint of warm, softening toffee. The palate shows plenty of reserve at first, gentle and well judged, quite firm and substantial through the middle but never leaving behind its detached and elegant texture even when the tannins and acids really start to kick in. It all adds up to give it a very savoury, mouth-watering feel. There's a really good kick to this. I get the feel it should really spend some time in the cellar despite that evolved feel on the nose, but how long? A decade maybe? 17.5/20 (£72.99)

Proprieta Sperino Lessona 2006: Another wine here with a rather lifted feel to the nose, showing a combination of bright red berry fruit tempered by a rather stony quality, with just a few little notes of wilder, more gamey elements coming in behind. The palate is fresh and nicely composed, gentle, with a harmonious presence of chalky tannins and firm acid backbone with some soft, supple, honeyed fruit. Through the middle it really develops a lovely, savoury, mouth-watering style which has more than a hint of elegance to it. Another really impressive wine here. 17.5/20 (£51.99)

Italy: Tuscany

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2008: A rather burnt and slightly vegetal style of fruit on the nose here. The same style comes through on the palate, which has a rather oily feel to it. I can sense a fresher layer of fruit trying to get out from behind it all, Nevertheless it doesn't seem to manage against the wall of feral, chewy, furry fruit that seems to dominate. This doesn't appeal. 13.5/20 (£19.95)

Isole e Olena Cepparello 2007: The appearance of this wine in the glass holds some promise, showing a bright depth of hue. The nose follows on, with a beautifully defined spearhead of cherry fruit, dark and yet composed, savoury and yet with a sweet, crunchy definition to it all that definitely keeps this within a very fresh part of the fruit spectrum. On the palate there are no disappointments; it is fresh, textured, well composed and nicely balanced by bright but correct acidity. There is a beautiful depth of character to it, rich in terms of flavour but without any top-heavy substance. Rather cottony and fresh. A delicious style which will be approachable very soon but has the composition to do well in the cellar I feel. 18/20 (£53.99)

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2008: A rather fresh appearance to this wine's colour. The nose has the same character, bright and fresh, with a light cherry aroma. The palate has a leaner character than I was perhaps expecting , although the fruit profile is as expected and it certainly has a rather appealing grippy structure beneath it all. Overall an attractive wine with a very fresh, composed substance. Appealing but I have to question the value offered by straight Chianti Classico these days - I can remember not that long ago I would have paid half the price this is listed at. 15.5/20 (£18.99)

Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva 2007: A fairly dark hue here, matched by dark fruit on the nose, still encapsulated by a firm presence of some honeyed oak. The brightness of the fruit does still shine through though. Just a touch of savoury depth behind it as well. The palate has a very appealing substance, gentle and detached, but showing an almost juicy, ripe, and well judged composition through the midpalate, before giving way to a layer of tannins and acidity. This has a very attractive presence in the middle and clearly has very fine potential. Perhaps not the greatest vintage of Vigna del Sorbo but certainly of high quality. Long, tannin-infused finish. 18/20 (£39.99)

Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2008: A very appealing fresh but deep and slightly dusty hue here. Bright and fresh fruit character on the nose here, delicious red berries mixed with custard powder, all very expressive and defined. The palate is medium bodied at best, certainly lighter than expected, with a rather stony-steely feel to the fruit at first. Rather a classic style on the nose and gentle and reserved on the palate. Not a blockbuster but full of typicity and should give plenty of pleasure given a year or two. 16/20 (£21.99)

Valdipiata Brunello di Montalcino 2007: A very fresh hue considering this wine already has five years under its belt. A very bright and herby style of fruit on the nose here, red cherries and plums, with a very slightly baked hint but nothing that would distract from the fresh style. There are floral elements too, notes of violets and wildflowers. the palate has all the bright and gently textured freshness that I expected, backed up in the midpalate by a punchy layer of acid and rather svelte, low-level tannins. Just the barest hint of game here. An appealing wine. 16/20 (£19.99)

Petrolo Torrione IGT Toscana 2008: Dark and sweet concentration of bright, fresh, acidic cherry fruit on the nose here, in keeping with the wine's fresh but dense appearance in the glass. It has a lightly smoky edge, with a darker fruit seam as well, tinges of black damson fruits. The palate is medium bodied, fresh, with very well-hidden tannins giving the wine a soft, supple and very open feel. The texture is well judged though, the structure building a little in the end but it remains a very stylish yet accessible wine. Overall a very attractive wine which is approachable now. 17/20 (£33.99)

Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2005: Rather a faded appearance here, although at its core there is still good a good quantity of red pigment here, but there is certainly a more dusty orange tinge to the rim. The nose also seems quite evolved, with hints of tobacco over a layer of fruit which has a gentle, stewed-macerated edge to it. The palate is rather stern in character, showing a broad structure but without the substance of fruit or texture I would hope would be there to balance it out. It has acid and grip but it is missing some softening elements I think. It may be closed though so I don't think it would be correct to judge this definitively. 15-16/20 (£44.99)

Poggio san Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2006: Rather an element of custardy fruit on the nose here, with the suggestion of a very appealing depth and concentration. The palate is very direct, with a steel frame around the fruit which does bring some appealing texture to the wine although it remains fairly direct and firm in its composition. Savoury, although steely rather than generous or supple, this still has an appealing character. Everything is very nicely balanced here once you give this time on the palate. Good potential for the cellar. Full, sappy and savoury. 17.5/20 (£48.99)

Poggio al Tesoro Dedicato a Walter Cabernet Franc IGT Toscana 2006: Very concentrated appearance here, clearly very different from the Sangioveses that preceded it, and indeed this is 100% Cabernet Franc. The nose has an intense, perfumed fruit character, black fruits spiced with flower petals especially violets and white pepper. The palate has the texture and presence, with an appealingly detached style, despite revealing through the middle a deeper, charcoaly, more intense backbone. Nevertheless it remains appealingly fresh overall, and despite a firm spearhead of tannins which only really show through on the finish. An attractive wine which needs time to develop I feel, five to seven years at least. 17/20 (£42.99)

New Zealand

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Martinborough) 2008: Stelvin screwcap. Lovely bright and expressive nose here, all cherry and beetroot bite, underpinned by a richness and depth most reminiscent of dark chocolate. The palate retains a savoury character at the start at least despite the richness and depth found on the nose, with a supple and nicely restrained character. Polished, with a nice if rather soft-edged substance to the wine which I suspect will firm up with a little time, and a lovely vigour to the structure which comes out from behind the fruit towards the end of the wine. Really appealing stuff here. 17/20 (£37.99)

Greywacke Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2009: Rather a smoky nose here, with a gamey and rather mushroomy edge to it. The palate is fresh and steely, with lean fruit coming though the middle, and a supple rather nicely composed structure underneath. Its composition seems somewhat confused, seemingly soft and already with some elements of maturity, with an unusually spiky backbone to it. Doesn't seem to have quite the correct presence in the mouth for me. 14.5/20 (£29.99)