Edouard Brun Cuvée Speciale Brut NV: An appealing, slightly mealy nose. The palate is fresh, rounded, similarly mealy and in fact a little chewy. The mousse holds some appeal, although overall it has a rather obvious and full character. Nice substance to it though. A good wine. 16/20

Serge Mathieu Brut Tradition Blanc des Noirs NV: This wine has an appealing, golden-sunset hue. The nose is bright, and there is similarly crisp definition on the palate. It has a firmness, and incisive mousse, with a touch of honeyed fruit. Fresh, with a just a touch of cream, this is a very stylish wine. 16/20

Devaux Grande Réserve NV: This is two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay. It has a nice, peachy nose, with a hint of smoke. Rather full and quite rich at the start, creamy, with soft acidity. It has a nice flesh, the highest point of definition coming from the rather sharp mousse. A good, easy-drinking wine. 15.5/20

Devaux 'D de Devaux' La Cuvée 'D de Devaux' NV: This includes 30% reserve wines, stored in oak, the rest being from the 2002 vintage. The nose carries notes of honey, crystalline fruit and yellow peach. The palate is creamy but defined, stylish, with white and yellow peach with a rich, honey-caramel edge. Fresh, and with good length. 16.5+/20

Devaux 'D de Devaux' Rosé NV: Although officially "non-vintage" this is entirely 2004, 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay all from grand cru vineyards, with the addition of 11% red wine. A pink sunset hue, and aromas of strawberry. The palate is lovely, creamy, with a tinge of violets and liquorice. Fleshy and fresh. Very appealing. 17+/20

Cave de Hunawihr Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker 2007: Quite a youthful, sherbetty nose here. There is a good character on the palate though, a firm substance and incisive acidity. A nice grip; this is a well structured wine. Very primary in its fruit character at present, but with time this should be very interesting. 16.5+/20

Domaine Pfister Crémant d'Alsace Brut NV: An appealing thyme and lemon balm nose here, with a light and chalky exterior. Full and youthful on the palate, rather lean but with a good creamy mousse and a lightly mineral character. Uncomplicated, clean, this could make good drinking in the right setting. 15/20

Chateau La Lagune Mademoiselle L (Haut-Médoc) 2006: A new cuvée from La Lagune. Nice dark berry fruit on the nose, with liquorice; overall very fresh and aromatic, with hints of roasted thyme. A light palate, softly focused, with a good peppery structure to it. It doesn't quite have the padding it needs for the frame though. An attractive wine, for drinking whilst the fruit is still fresh I think. Which is soon. 15.5/20

Chateau Mahon-Laville (Bordeaux) 2006: A huge wealth of spicy, liquorice oak here; this dominates the nose. It is the same on the palate sadly, and a feral edge on the fruit takes away any hint of freshness. Firm, ripe tannins, nice acidity, and the fruit has a nicer character on the palate, but that huge layer of chocolatey oak is overpowering. 13.5/20

Domaine Corinne Perchaud Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin 2006: This is quite closed and inexpressive on the nose, and it has the same character on the palate. Soft and rounded flesh, moderate acidity, with a rounded, polished, honeycomb edge. It has some minerals, and a better sense of acidity in the midpalate. Appealing, with potential, it just lacks a little definition and vigour for me. 16-16.5+?/20

Domaine Stephane Aladame Montagny Premier Cru 2007: This has a fresh and aromatic character, even though there are some prominent honey and oak elements here. Soft, with a twist of cashew nut on the palate, and muted acidity. A little grip. Not a lot of direction here really. 13.5/20

Jean-Claude Boisset Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes 2006: The nose here is dominated by a layer of fine, golden oak and a little baked apple fruit. There is a nice freshness to it though, starting out fairly lightly on the palate, with some pure and gentle fruit, the oak only coming to predominate on the midpalate. Smoky, and with an appealing gritty substance, this is very attractive. Lots of potential here. 17+/20

Domaine la Croix Gratiot Picpoul de Pinet 2008: Elements of freshly crushed limestone here; this is certainly mineral. The palate is really dry but quite flattering, although part of this is rather low acidity. It seems a little unfocused, and perhaps less value in its traditional role with seafood as a result. Nice flavour though. 14.5/20

Domaine la Croix Gratiot Roussanne 2007: Bottled under Stelvin. An interesting nose here, perfumed and slightly mineral, with a touch of honeydew melon. A nice flesh to the palate, slightly withdrawn, but with appealing stone fruit. A touch grippy, with moderate acid freshness. Again a little soft and out of focus. 14.5+/20

Vignerons de Valençay Sauvignon Blanc 2008: Attractive, aromatic pear fruit here. A good firm palate with a nice grip and substance to it. Spicy pears, good acidity, and a richly perfumed finish, with a slightly chalky-mineral edge. This has a nice style. 15.5/20

Domaine de Corbillières Sauvignon de Touraine 2008: A more pungent style here, more fruit-rich, with notes of melon and kiwi. Rather grassy too though. A nice fleshy palate with grip, spice and substance especially in the midpalate. White pepper too. An attractive wine. 15.5/20

Domaine Nicolas Girard Menetou-Salon 2007: This wine has more reserved fruit, stony, with a little subtle nut. A nice substance, quite broad and firm, with hints of lemon and stone fruit. A nice wine with a firm, spicy quality. 16/20

Domaine Sautereau Sancerre 2007: An appealing nose, with perhaps the gentlest touch of honeycomb. A nice minerality. Broad and warm on the palate, not so well focused but certainly substantial. A peppery edge, and a good youthful seam of tannin backed up by nice acidity. Attractive. 16/20

Domaine Sautereau Sancerre Rosé 2007: A good salmon-sunset hue. An interesting nose here. A little toffee? Honeycomb, minerals too. The nose is appealing and I keep returning to it with great interest; unfortunately the palate is less appealing. It has a firm, very solid character, with a rounded and heavy style. Creamy even. It lacks vigour and precision. Not what I was expecting. 14/20

Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas 2006: Rather diffuse character here, soft baked fruit character. A rich palate, ripe and soft, broad, with a huge, firm, peppery grip beneath. Somewhat chewy in style, sweet, slightly herby and with slightly confected fruit. I would prefer more freshness, definition and vigour. 13.5/20

Chateau de Vaudieu Châteauneuf du Pape 2005: A surprisingly fresh and stony nose for this vintage, with a rather light strawberry fruit element. Dry, a touch spirity, sweet, clear, but with a savoury grip underneath it all. Rather fierce heat in the midpalate, although there is a lot of substance with it. This has a decent definition, but I find all the other components very distracting. 13.5/20

Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets 2006: Burnt toffee, and strawberry liquorice fruit here. A nice gentle texture on the palate, and a finely polished substance to match. The grip shows in the midpalate, alongside rather sweet and confected fruit. This is rather simple in character, but nicely composed. 15+/20

Jaboulet St Joseph Le Grand Pompée 2006: A darker nose here, blacker fruit character, slightly more chewy fruit. Polished, stony but light cream texture. Nicely composed tannins beneath. Firm, still rather simple and primary, but with a nice substance and balance. A good grip too. Good potential here. 16+/20

Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2006: The oak is still quite dominant here, giving this wine a sweet, honeyed character. There is also a good black fruit and pepper character, but also a very slight hint of reduction. The fruit comes through very nicely on the palate though, along with lots of spice and pepper. Good acids, and aromatic berry and cherry fruit. Good. 16-16.5+/20

Jaboulet Hermitage La Petite Chapelle 2006: Good depth to the fruit here, with a dark and creamy character. The palate is full, polished, quite juicy and yet nicely balanced. There is a strong core of acidity and overall this is a stylish, appealing wine. It doesn't have huge power or substance, but there is plenty of primary grip and backbone. Very good potential. 17+/20

Allegrini Valpolicella 2007: Bottled under Stelvin. Attractive fresh cherry fruit here, with a slightly herby-chalky edge. Soft and round, a touch spicy on the palate, there is some nice substance to this. Even a little savoury in the end. A good wine, especially at this most basic of levels, and a touch more impressive than my tasting last year. 16/20

Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004: This has dark and slightly feral fruit on the nose, with a sweet, gamey, maturing fruit character. Big and sweet and creamy, quite powerful, with a firm punch of tannin and alcohol. Huge, still rather backward, although it has moved on somewhat from last year, with lots of meat and appealing savoury elements to it. Very good, perhaps potentially excellent. 17.5+/20

Vajra Barolo Le Albe 2007: An unusual character on the nose here, feral and with the salty character of sea-spray; perhaps this is just an extreme expression of minerality? The palate is soft, fleshy and rounded, and even a touch chewy. Good extract, just not so well defined. Certainly substantial though. A clean finish; overall, despite the aromatics first found, this has a good character. 16.5+/20

Aldo Conterno Barolo 2004: A sweet cherry perfume here, otherwise this is giving very little away at the moment. Very nicely polished, smoothly presented, with a gentle substance. Elegant, before revealing a greater firmness through the midpalate, where there is a reserved texture and tannic grip. There is a lot of lovely, savoury character to it, and a firm and well delineated style. Very good indeed; lots of potential here. 17.5+/20

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2006: This is quite closed on the nose, giving just the sense of a warm and distant fruit. The same character is there on the palate, with a warm and gritty texture. Full, substantial, with good acidity and a nice chewy finish. Difficult to judge today but it certainly has the appropriate stuffing to be interesting. 15-16+?/20

Isole e Olena Cepparello 2005: A rather high-toned character on the nose here, with a spirity and foxy edge. The palate has fruit, flesh and overall an attractive composition. There is a lot of good substance, with piles of ripe, chewy tannins and firm acidity. Very primary at present, with lots of flavour at first. This is brimming with potential and needs to be left alone for some time I think. 16.5-17.5+/20

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006: Slightly withdrawn but attractive fruit on the nose, well defined, with a nicely structured palate. Defined, with a good texture, a little violet fruit, good tannins and fresh, balanced acidity. This has a lovely, juicy character and should give plenty of pleasure. 16.5+/20

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2005: Dark and brooding on the nose, withdrawn, giving the suggestion of warmth but little else at the moment. Textured, underneath this a layer of acidity and grip. Very simple, direct and rather backward at present, but with lots of substance through to the finish. Excellent potential. 17-17.5+/20

Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2006: The aroma of Pontefract cakes here, liquorice and charred oak. The palate is rather soft focus, fleshy but with a grippy palate. Chewy, mouth-filling, soft. Certainly interesting, this has at least the potential to be very good, although beyond that I find it a little difficult to judge today. 15.5-16.5+?/20