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The Wines of Királyudvar

Knowing my own palate, it is strange that I am not more familiar with the wines of Tokaj (once more commonly referred to as Tokay) in Hungary. After all, this is one of Europe's classic wine regions, albeit one that was almost lost under communist rule during the latter half of the 20th century. Not only that, it is responsible for one of the world's most iconic sweet wine styles, and its proponents claim that it is the source of the first ever botrytised wine. Surely some experience of this region is an essential component of anyone's personal 'wine syllabus'? So why is it that I have only ever had minor flirtations with the occasional bottle, here and there?

Perhaps Tokaj's history provides me with one excuse. For a long time this region was little more than a legend; memories of great wines abounded but when the vineyards disappeared behind the Iron Curtain both quality and availability tailed off. That excuse is now, however, wearing thin. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall - twenty years ago now - and the associated disintegration of the Soviet Union Tokaj has been roused from its slumber, and there are once more great wines being produced here. Some come from the Royal Tokaji estate, a venture led by British writer and self-confessed Tokaji-addict Hugh Johnson, but he is not alone. Another important name in 'new-Tokaj' is Anthony Hwang, one that is familiar to Loire-o-philes as the majority shareholder in Domaine Huet, the famous Vouvray domaine 80% of which lies in his ownership. Hwang, a Filipino-American businessman, has also invested heavily in Tokaj. The beneficiary of his support is Királyudvar, a historic domaine which once principally supplied the Hungarian court with wine - its name translates directly as 'The King's Court'.

Today the Tokaj region covers more than 5000 hectares of Hungary, concentrated between the Bodrog and Tisza rivers. These bodies of water are vital, especially the Bodrog, as they give rise to morning fogs which encourage the development of botrytis on the grapes. Thus the fruit - principally Furmint, Hárslevelű, Muscat Lunel and the lesser-known Zéta and Kövérszőlő - shrivels on the vine, the sugars and acidities concentrated down to incredible levels. Harvested by hand, these little aszú berries yield, through fermentation, the intensely flavoured puttonyos wines. Added to a drier base wine, these puttonyos (the name is derived from the traditional hods used to bring in the fruit from the vineyard - each one could carry 25 kg of fruit) can be used to make sweeter cuvées, usually three to six puttonyos, depending on how much is added. Alternatively, the aszú berries can be blended in higher concentrations, yielding aszú-essencia, or can be bottled separately, pure essencia.

Királyudvar, Hwang and Pinguet

It was in 1997 that Hwang began working with Királyudvar, acquiring 10 hectares of vines, the source of the estate's first vintage wine in many years, an aszú, in 1998. Since that small beginning the estate has grown considerably in size, and there are now 75 hectares under vine, scattered across six hillsides within the appellations of Mád and Bodrogkeresztúr. Today it must be one of the leading domaines of the region, alongside the aforementioned Royal Tokaji, Disznókö (where Jean-Michel Cazes of AXA Millésimes, since replaced by Christian Seely, led the team), Oremus, and also those estates revitalised by local talent, such as Istvan Szepsy who works his own eponymously-named domaine, although he also worked with Hwang at Királyudvar until they parted company in 2008.

The wines tasted here were shown alongside a selection of wines from Domaine Huet, Hwang's other principle wine concern. Huet's director Noël Pinguet (above) now advises at Királyudvar, so bringing the two together for a tasting seemed doubly appropriate. The wines in question were nicely illustrative not only of Tokaj's past but also of how the region and Királyudvar itself may develop in the future. Although famed for those fabulous sweet wines, like that 1998 aszú, there are an increasing number of producers turning out late harvest and even dry styles, and Királyudvar is obviously one of the driving forces behind this evolution. I thought the wines were on the whole delicious, with a floral definition rather reminiscent of Vouvray that perhaps signified the hand of Pinguet at work. (10/12/09)

The Wines of Királyudvar - Tasting Notes

Tasted in September 2009. Click for stockists.

Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Domain Sec 2008: A very pale hue here, gently floral on the nose, fresh and slightly steely and ungiving. A much more approachable palate though, lively and fleshy, with gently polished pear fruit. Nicely composed, this is very young and withdrawn at present but promises much freshness. 16.5-17.5+/20

Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Becsek Demi-Sec 2008: Seems to have a plumper promise than the Sec, and it has a more open aromatic character too. The texture on the palate is lovely, with a very pure and fine core of acidity. Freshly finished, with good length, this is good wine. It isn't too tight as to be unapproachable but it is certainly very young and unintegrated at the moment. 17-18+/20

Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Cuvée Ilona Noble Late Harvest 2008: Youthful and bright, honeyed and yet also savoury, with aromas reminiscent of honeycomb and beeswax, dried fruits too. This has a very broad and toothsome style, intense and precisely structured. Notes of oranges, orange blossom, fresh botrytis, this has the piercing intensity that I would normally associate with eiswein more than Tokaji. There is great power here, real intensity, and importantly freshness rather than the oxidative style I normally associate with these wines. Great wine. 18-19+/20

Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Domain Sec 2006: There is a touch more colour here than the 2008, with waxy fruit on the nose, although it still has that steely element to it. Really attractive on the palate, polished and gently substantial, with aromatic notes of sweet pear. I find it remarkably reminiscent of the 2008 Anjou Bellargus des Treilles from Pithon-Paillé when tasted at the 2009 Salon, before it has seen any oak (sorry I know that is not a very useful comparison, but it is so true). Really very good indeed. 16.5+/20

Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Becsek Demi-Sec 2005: This gives the impression of polished stone on the nose, with nuances of sea salt but also hints of caramelisation. The palate is very fine, very pure and polished, with a gentle, harmonious and well-rounded style. There is a gentle, burnt sweetness to it, with notes of honey and just-baked bread, and overall this wine has great style and breadth, culminating in an intense, defined, punchy finish. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Domaine Királyudvar Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2002: A very appealing nose here, with beautifully integrated aromas, full of fruit salad complexity and sweetness, with oranges and yellow peaches the most prominent notes, spiced with nuances of botrytis. Very broad and sweet on the palate, with intense orange fruits, but with a meaty, savoury, stocky edge to it as well. Overall, very fine. Incredible intensity but very polished and well-knit. Seamless in fact. Good length too. Great wine. 18.5+/20