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Wines of the Languedoc from Joseph Barnes
Joseph Barnes Wines is an independent retailer operating from a retail site in the market town of Saffron Walden in North Essex, but also with a user-friendly online presence. The firm specialises in wines from the South and Southwest of France, both areas which I have examined in some detail on The Winedoctor over the past couple of years. I've been impressed by many wines coming from these regions, both by sheer quality as well as value for money. Naturally I was pleased to be able to take a closer look at some of the wines from the Joseph Barnes portfolio recently.
I tasted wines from three domaines, the first being La Jasse Castel. Created in
1998 by Pascale Marcillaud and her husband, this domaine comprises 7.5 ha of
vineyard and the resulting wines, based on this brief tasting, are just lovely.
There were two exemplary examples of St Chinian from Domaine de Tabatau,
run by brothers Jean-Paul and Bruno Gracia, the latter having left his post as
vineyard manager at Mas de Daumas
Gassac to join his brother at their own domaine, just west of St Chinian
itself. I think these two wines were the stars of this selection, although only
by a very small margin. Finally, two good wines from Chateau St Jacques
d'Albas at Laure-Minervois, a domaine owned and run by British ex-pat Graham
Nutter.
All my tasting notes are presented below. I have no commercial connection with Joseph Barnes wines; I do not engage in the retail of wine as I feel that blurs the boundary between critic/writer and retailer, and I make no commission on sales. I have included the Joseph Barnes prices (inclusive of duty and VAT, in brackets) as well as wine-searcher links (where prices are listed ex-VAT), for transparency. (28/6/06)
Wines of the Languedoc from Joseph Barnes - Tasting Notes
The following wines were tasted in June 2006. Click
to locate
stockists:
La Jasse Castel Coteaux du Languedoc Les Intillières 2004: This is 70%
Cinsaut, 30% Carignan. It has a lovely oxblood hue, fading to a grey-red rim.
Flowers, blackberry fruit and fresh blossom on the nose, with notes of plum and
spices. Nice, gently structured on entry, with a pleasant level of fruit and a
slightly chalky-charcoally tannic structure. Just a little hint of creaminess,
with appealing blueberry and black pepper flavours. Overall, very nicely put
together especially for these two varieties, the result being an unassuming,
nicely balanced, rounded wine which is a treat with food. Good. 16.5/20 (£8.85)
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La Jasse Castel Montpeyroux La Jasse 2002: This is a Syrah dominated
blend, this accounting for 75%, the remainder 20% Grenache and 5% Cinsaut, aged
in oak for one year. It has a delightful crimson-raspberry hue, not too dark and
deep, but nicely concentrated right out to the rim. Nice sweet fruit on the
nose, with a little meaty-furry overlay which is subtle and very attractive. The
picture is completed by a lovely presence on the palate, gently creamy on entry,
then revealing some structure through the midpalate, but always under the cover
of a layer of marrowy fruit and nice extract. What oak has been employed has
been done well, as it has integrated nicely, and most pleasing of all the wine
has a reserved, elegant balance as it rolls around the mouth. Slowly fading
finish. Very good indeed, not forced or overdone, just appealing fruit and an
attractive balance. 17/20 (£10.45)
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Domaine du Tabatau St Chinian Camprigou 2003: A blend of Carignan,
Grenache and Cinsaut which has a lovely colour, a vibrant cherry red with a nice
depth. Herby-cherry Grenache fruit on the nose, reminiscent of garrigue
twigs with a sweet black cherry coating. Good presence on entry, unassuming but
with a nicely rounded character, leading into a middleweight palate, leant a
little texture by some nicely extracted tannins and fruit. An appealing, dry
style, showing a tannic face on the finish, and which is just lovely with food.
Very good. 17/20 (£7.95)
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Domaine du Tabatau St Chinian Lo Tabataire 2003: A slightly deeper,
richer, more glossy hue to this blend which is dominated by Syrah, which is
quite evident on the nose, together with Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre. The
nose has piles of quite classic, sweet berry and black pepper fruit that just
screams Syrah, together with little oaky, mint-laced nuances. Lovely texture on
entry, which persists through the palate, supported by some deliciously ripe
tannins which only really come out from the covers on the very finish. Fairly
low acidity, so this wine is unmistakeably a child of the 2003 vintage, but I
find it very pleasing nevertheless. Delicious and ripely structured. For
short-term drinking. 17/20 (£9.50)
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Domaine St Jacques d'Albas Minervois 2002: A blend of Carignan, Syrah
and Grenache, essentially this is Graham's second wine. Good depth of colour,
rather a dark cherry-oxblood hue with a vibrant pink rim. Rather a vivacious
nose, notes of raspberry on toast with a little caramel twist, later showing
some smoky, sweetly roasted meats. A nice, elegantly creamy style on the palate,
ripe and rounded, and yet reserved, although it has a gently caressing nature.
Some macerated berry fruit tinged with chocolate, and a fresh presence. Soft,
ripe tannins and a decent length here. Very good, for current and short-term
drinking I think. 16.5/20 (£7.00)
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Chateau St Jacques d'Albas Minervois 2003: A blend of 60% Syrah, 30%
Carignan and 10% Syrah, aged in oak for one year. A very dark, inky hue, as one
might expect from this vintage. An appealing nose, perhaps just a little porty
in style, with dried blueberry and blackberry fruit, along with notes of rose
petals, chocolate and toffee. And then meaty notes, like Bovril. Certainly this
has plenty of interest. A rich, mouthfilling style, quite typical of 2003. The
acidity seems very low on the palate, nevertheless there is a good, grippy
structure providing some backbone, and there is an attractive poise on the
palate, carrying the opulent, chocolate-toffee edged fruit. Plenty of extract
and richness here. I like this. 17/20 (£8.25)
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