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An Inycon Six

This month (May 2010) marks Winedoctor's tenth birthday, and with that in mind it seems somewhat fitting to look back to a tasting early in Winedoctor's short history. Although today the heart of this site is undoubtedly French, particularly looking at the Loire and Bordeaux, in the early days I was much less focused. Although today I do allow myself occasional forays to elsewhere in the world of wine, anywhere from Austria to Australia, these brief interludes are now intended only to maintain context, and to ensure that I don't completely lose touch with what is happening beyond the borders of my chosen stamping grounds. Ten years ago, though, it was "anything goes", and one UK brand I tasted and reviewed - having heard some friends rave about the wines - was Inycon. My own opinion, however, was in contrast to that of my peers; the wines were too rich and unbalanced, redolent of baked and raisined fruit. My review was not particularly complimentary, and although I enjoyed the 2002 Fiano a year or two later my opinion remained largely unchanged.

Well, ten years on and the brand is still going strong (which obviously indicates the degree of influence I have on the UK wine market!). Perhaps this reflects the potency of the Sicilian co-operative Settesoli which lies behind this venture. With more than 2300 members, now aided by Enotria winemaker Owen Bird who has over 6000 hectares of vineyards at his disposal, this is a powerhouse Italian cantine committed to bringing its Fiano and Frappato (as well as the more usual suspects) to market. So is it time for another look then? I think so, and I was recently fortunate enough to have six samples to taste through and to inform opinion.

The six wines were tasted blind, and my notes below are as written at the time. What I found notable was that the two most successful wines were the Fiano (from the three whites) and the Nero d'Avola-Frappato blend (from the reds), in each colour the indigenous varieties comfortably trumping those wines made from more international varieties, including Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. I'm not sure whether the variety was the deciding factor, or whether it was just that as the wines tried harder - moving from the Growers' to President's Selections - they just seemed to overshoot, missing the targets of restraint and balance. And so ten years on it seems perhaps as though not too much has changed; the wines are certainly of a fresher style, with little of the raisined, pruney, flabby fruit found nine-or-so years ago. But there is still a lot of room for improvement here....although that Fiano is certainly still drinkable! (27/5/10)

An Inycon Six - Tasting Notes

The following wines were tasted in May 2010. For all my notes on the Inycon wines from the Settesoli co-operative, see my Settesoli/Inycon profile. Click for stockists.

Inycon Vineyard Selection Chardonnay Pinot Grigio 2009: Under screwcap. This has more restrained fruit than the other two wines, showing a peach and stone fruit character, soft and polished, with a touch of lanolin. The palate is clean, tinged with vanilla and also slightly confected banana. Well integrated towards the finish though, which is rather fat but well framed. Grippy and slightly crunchy finish. 14.5/20

Inycon Growers' Selection Fiano 2009: Under screwcap. Fresh and bright hue, tinged with green. Really open and expressive nose, full of fresh fruit; scented pears at first, then more tropical, with notes of honeydew melon and bitter peach skin. A good presence on the palate, fleshy with a little fat to it but also with some good grip giving the wine some delineation. Polished slightly bitter - in a good way - and rather solid substance in the mouth. Nice gentle acidity sitting behind it all. Most importantly, it has freshness and decent lines. Good. 15.5/20

Inycon President's Selection Chardonnay 2009: Under screwcap. Slightly fat tropical fruits on the nose, with notes of honeydew melon and passion fruit, all very sweet and ripe. The palate has a fat and rather broad texture, underpinned by some slightly bitter grip. A moderate concentration, nicely fresh acidity, although with a rather firm shell to the fruit. A bitter grip in the finish. Overall soft and plump fruit with a firm and somewhat raw structure in the finish. 14/20

Inycon Vineyard Selection Shiraz 2008: Under screwcap. A less vibrant hue than the Nero d'Avola blend, this has a more reticent nose of plum tinged with chocolate and charcoal. Quite nicely texture in the front and midpalate, soft edges, although a touch more spiky towards the finish, certainly raw and peppery right in the end. Very straightforward through the middle, although with some brightness and acidity. It lacks character and has some rustic heat on the finish. 14/20

Inycon Growers' Selection Nero d'Avola Frappato 2008: Under screwcap. A dark core, but a vibrant pink rim with decent concentration. The nose has some attractive elements with suggestions of squashed raspberry, cherry and plum, set off by a sweet and scented edge. Nicely textured on the start although with a cooler structure behind, as well as some ripe tannins which maintain quite a soft feel throughout. Moderate acidity, some grip behind the flesh, fun and frivolous if rather raw in the finish, a decent wine here! 15.5/20

Inycon President's Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2008: Under screwcap. Less concentration here. The nose carries some berry fruit aromas with a sweet, slightly confected edge. It seems a touch burnt and charcoaly too. Gently textured on the palate, fairly sweet in style, at the front it seems nicely composed, fairly gentle and restrained, but towards the finish it becomes less well appointed, and displays a lot of raw heat and spiky texture. 12/20