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Burgundy from H & H Bancroft

With some excellent recent vintages, and a gradual increase in quality of wines across the board, thanks to improved methods of vineyard management and more robust practices in the winery, can there be a better time to dip a toe in the waters of Burgundy?

The old maxim that you had to drink six (or twelve, depending on who you listen to) bottles of Burgundy to find a good one is probably no longer true. There are an increasing number of small estates producing very good wines at all price ranges, from the affordable to the extortionately expensive. It is often necessary, however, to look outside the great communes of the Côte d'Or. Less exalted villages such as Savigny-les-Beaune or Pernand-Vergelesses can be excellent sources of good Burgundy, provided you find a bottle from one of the better winemakers. And, of course, Burgundy does extend beyond the golden slopes west of the N74. There is Chablis, always better value than the great whites of Puligny- and Chassage-Montrachet. And there is the Côte Chalonnaise, often derided but, with the right hands on the pigeage machine, these can be very successful wines.

I recently tasted a small selection of Burgundy - concentrating on quality wine makers from across Burgundy - Chablis, the Côte d'Or and the Côte Chalonnaise - from H & H Bancroft. This was a very good selection of wines which illustrate the quality that is available. I've included links directly through to the wines in question on the Bancroft website, as well as wine-searcher links for transparency. (2/6/05)

Burgundy from H & H Bancroft - Tasting Notes

Tasted in May 2005. Click for stockists:

Billaud-Simon Chablis 2003: Fairly restrained nose, with gentle mineral notes intertwined with savoury white fruits with a slightly crystalline character. There is some weight on the palate, and a hint of richness, but it is quite dry. Leads into a full, flavoury finish. Quite a ripe, open style, reflecting the warm vintage, and although not typical it has a good, minerally seam and just sufficient acidity - an essential element for this vintage. 15.5/20

Hubert Lamy St-Aubin Premier Cru Les Frionnes 2002: From a vineyard close to the village, rather than the more desirable sites adjacent to the Chassagne and Puligny communes. Moderate depth of colour, with a fine, golden hue. Lovely nose; quite pure and intense. Nutty, mineral, honeycomb and slightly smoky nose. This is very good. Laser-like precision on the palate; fine acidity, with good body alongside. Very dry - it cries out for food. Full flavoured, with white fruits along with mineral-smoky character and some peppery notes at the end. Even a little length here. This really shows the mettle of the vintage. Excellent potential. Recommended. 17+/20

Patrick Javillier Meursault 'Les Tillets' Cuvée Speciale 2001: A good, oatmeal and golden toast influenced nose, with notes of honey-roasted cashew nuts too. Fine palate, with good body, soft grippy notes of structure, and nicely balanced acidity. Good weight, a little oily vinosity, and flavours that reflect the nose. This is very good village (lieu-dit) Meursault which, although drinking well now, will improve over the next 3-4 years. This is impressive for this vintage. Recommended. 16.5+/20

Domaine Chandon des Brailles Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Lavières 2000: Nice maturing colour here, showing some tawny notes, with a fairly transparent core. Smoky-sweet game on the nose. Nice, medium weight, with a good, cottony texture. Slightly oily, barrel-influenced mouthfeel. Fairly well integrated, good acidity, overall a nice presence on the palate. Just showing a little tannin on the finish. To be critical, a slightly harsh finish. Drink now and over the next few years. Good. 15.5/20

Michel Juillot Mercurey Premier Cru Clos des Barraults 2002: Great colour, quite a pure cherry red with some depth. And a fine nose; smoky black cherry elements, with a leafy-chalky note and a little nuance of mushroom. The palate follows on, with lovely balance, carrying quite decent acidity and a gentle tannic backbone, wrapped in ever-so-slightly chalky red fruits. This is a very good, solid wine, and a real credit to Laurent Juillot and to Mercurey. Should improve over the next 2-3 years. Recommended. 16.5+/20