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Summer Wines from H & H Bancroft

As I write, summer is officially here, and this seems to be confirmed by the string of pleasantly warm days I have experienced recently (admittedly interspersed with grey, damp and very windy days, with no shortage of thunder and lightening as well). So what better time to look at stocking up with some fresh whites and tasty reds for summer drinking? The team at H & H Bancroft recently sent me a selection of six wines from their summer list. There wasn't a hint of mediocrity anywhere in tasting these wines, and two in particular stand out. The unconventional Viognier-dominated blend Gala 3 from Luigi Bosca in Argentina was delightful and flavoursome, perfect for sipping in the garden, and the Ten Minutes by Tractor 10X Pinot Noir, from Australia's Mornington Peninsula, was a particularly fine example of what can be achieved in a cool climate zone with Burgundy's premier grape. Delicious stuff indeed...only wish I had more.

I have included the H & H Bancroft prices in brackets throughout (inclusive of VAT), and for transparency have also included links to wine-searcher (where prices are listed excluding VAT). The usual disclaimer; I make no commission on sales and I do not sell wine. I don't believe we can ever expect an honest opinion from a writer with a vested interest in the success of a wine, and I am happy to avoid being in that position. And a disclosure; H & H Bancroft advertise on The Winedoctor (just in case you hadn't already noticed). This is in no way tied in with the receipt of these wines and has no bearing on the independent opinions that follow. (5/7/06)

Summer Wines from H & H Bancroft - Tasting Notes

The following were tasted in June 2006. Click to locate stockists.

Cairnbrae Sauvignon Blanc Wild South (Marlborough, NZ) 2005: There's lots of very typical vibrancy on the nose of this pale lemon-golden wine, with a firm, creamy-gooseberry and grassy character melded with more subtle notes of crisp, crunchy yellow and green capsicum. Very forward and obvious palate, leading from the front with freshly cut grass and gooseberry character, with piles of fresh and appropriate acidic structure to carry it along. There is an enveloping, attractive mouthfeel, however, with a gentle twist of buttercream richness on the midpalate finish, and a slowly fading length. Very typical of the Marlborough style, and very good quality. 17/20 (£8.95)

Luigi Bosca Gala 3 Viognier Chardonnay Riesling (Mendoza, Argentina) 2005: This interesting blend has a clean, fairly pale colour. Viognier certainly dominates on the nose, which is characterised by peach and stone fruit, with grapey hints and certainly plenty of freshness and lift. Great vivacity on the palate, with lots of fresh flavour, a lovely body and presence of fruit, nicely framed with good acidity. This blend may be unconventional, but praise is due nevertheless; this is a brilliant, fresh crisp, flavoursome summer wine. Great fun. 17.5/20 (£14.95)

Pillot Chassagne Montrachet Les Mazures 2004: There's just a tinge of rich colour to this youthful white Burgundy. Quite a classic nose, led by some oatmealy, hazelnutty oak, with little buttery hints of richness. Lovely, fresh style on entry, quite well defined, and yet with the slightly plump, welcoming mouthfeel that tends to be associated with Chassagne over Puligny. But there is certainly a good presence of acidity also, with a meaty depth to the endpalate. This is very drinkable now, and in fact offers lots of interest, but would really do much better if left alone in the cellar over 5-8 years. 16.5+/20 (£19.95)

Chateau Le Pey (Haut-Médoc) 2003: A lovely deep colour when poured, but quite a classic style on the nose, which exhibits a delightfully dusty character, but with an attractive presence of stylishly restrained bramble fruit fruit behind. Plenty of flavour on the palate, but this is a wine that maintains a cool detachment, with a minerally, wet stone mouthfeel, despite the wealth of character. Only as the midpalate builds does it reveal a little of the heat of the vintage, as the rich, ripe tannins come to the fore, cruising through the finish with nicely balanced fruit and soft acidity. I think this vintage may be perfect for those hunting for affordable, easily accessible Bordeaux experiences, and this is just such a wine. Very good indeed. 16.5+/20 (£8.95)

Ten Minutes by Tractor 10X Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria) 2003: A lovely colour, a deep cherry-oxblood hue. Deeply characterful nose, spicy and meaty, with black cherry fruit tinged with volatile acidity. Rather organic, earthy-undergrowth-mushroom notes alongside the fresh, ripe fruit. Quite plump and ripe in style on the palate, with a lovely structure, but with a fresh acidity affording a fine presence here, despite the rich, ripe style. Elegant, sweetly ripe fruit finish. This is very good indeed, and shows nicely the quality that can be attained from the cool climate regions of Australia. Very good indeed, and lovely for current drinking. 17/20 (£15.50)

Cederberg Shiraz (Cederberg, South Africa) 2004: A very dense, in fact opaque, wine, dark and glossy, although still with a youthful, vibrant pink-purple rim surrounding its inky core. The nose is big and showy, offering up lots of concentrated dried berry fruit aromas, with a coating of chocolate, caramel and richly roasted coffee grounds, all oak-derived flavours (malolactic in oak, followed by 18 months in predominantly French barrels, 70% new). Big and creamy palate, warm and welcoming, but there is welcome structure and grip, and some freshness too, beneath it all. Plump berry fruit mirroring the nose. Not too lengthy a finish, although there is a little lingering, superbly ripe, tannin. Once the oak has settled in here, this will be a seriously good drink. 17+/20 (£12.45)